From its ancient Viking lineage to its cutting-edge
modern ‘Scandie’ style quotient—both of which are on ample display—Stockholm
truly is a dynamic city. Add to this a much-celebrated culinary scene, and what
you have on hand are the ingredients for a perfect two-day tryst with the
Swedish capital!
By Raul Dias
Quick question: How many times have you heard the
comparative moniker ‘Venice of the east/west/north/south’ being bandied about
by over-enthusiastic tour guides on your travels when describing any
self-respecting, waterway-saturated city? Well, in the case of Stockholm, there
truly couldn’t be a more apt descriptor. Made up of 14 islands that form part
of the archipelago where Lake Mälaren meets the Baltic Sea, it is this warren
of narrow canals and other water conduits—all forded over by magnificent
bridges—that give Stockholm a fantastical ‘waterwold’ look and feel.
From its Viking history-imbued museums and grand edifices to its bustling markets and fecund parks, Sweden’s capital city sure knows how to put on a spectacular show. Be it glorious, sun-drenched summers or crisp, burnished gold-hued autumns, it’s always a good time to be in Stockholm.
And it is also at the very center of the global food revolution known as ‘The New Nordic Cuisine’ with its emphasis on ethics, health, quality and sustainability. At the vanguard of this development are a number of Stockholm chefs who have transformed the city into a world-renowned destination for food tourism and lifted the entire food scene in both Stockholm and Sweden on the whole.
All this, making for a choc-a-bloc 48 hours to truly let the Stockholm vibe seep into your very being!
From its Viking history-imbued museums and grand edifices to its bustling markets and fecund parks, Sweden’s capital city sure knows how to put on a spectacular show. Be it glorious, sun-drenched summers or crisp, burnished gold-hued autumns, it’s always a good time to be in Stockholm.
And it is also at the very center of the global food revolution known as ‘The New Nordic Cuisine’ with its emphasis on ethics, health, quality and sustainability. At the vanguard of this development are a number of Stockholm chefs who have transformed the city into a world-renowned destination for food tourism and lifted the entire food scene in both Stockholm and Sweden on the whole.
All this, making for a choc-a-bloc 48 hours to truly let the Stockholm vibe seep into your very being!
Day
1
9.30 A.M.
JOIN THE QUEUE FOR A RIDE DOWN HISTORY AT THE VASA MUSEUM
Brave the morning queues and prepare to be blown away by the sheer scale and grandeur of one of Stockholm’s, nay Scandinavia’s greatest calling cards aka. The Vasa Museum. Despite housing just one major relic, the mighty Viking ship that gives it its name—The Vasa, this museum is worth the trouble it takes to get in. Just ask the over one million people that visit it every year!
The only preserved 17th Century ship in the world, the 69-meter-long warship sank 20-minutes into its maiden voyage in the middle of the Stockholm harbour in 1628, and was salvaged 333 years later in 1961. For nearly half a century the ship has been slowly, deliberately and painstakingly restored to a state approaching its original glory. Though there are 10 different exhibitions around the ship to tell you about life on board the ship, its scale is best appreciated once you leave the museum, as the three masts on the roof outside the museum show the height of the ship’s original masts.
12.00 P.M.
BRUNCH LIKE THE LOCALS AT NYSTEKT STRÖMMINGVAGNEN
A virtual Stockholm institution, this small herring wagon in Södermalm Square has been dishing out freshly caught fish in its myriad preparations for more than two decades. For a true-blue Stockholmer style brunch, order the skåning which is a portion of herring served open face sandwich style on dense rye bread. This is then topped with Spanish red onion, fresh dill and mustard. Chase this with a tall glass of lingondricka which is a refreshing soft drink made from the Swedish national favourite—the lingonberry.
BRUNCH LIKE THE LOCALS AT NYSTEKT STRÖMMINGVAGNEN
A virtual Stockholm institution, this small herring wagon in Södermalm Square has been dishing out freshly caught fish in its myriad preparations for more than two decades. For a true-blue Stockholmer style brunch, order the skåning which is a portion of herring served open face sandwich style on dense rye bread. This is then topped with Spanish red onion, fresh dill and mustard. Chase this with a tall glass of lingondricka which is a refreshing soft drink made from the Swedish national favourite—the lingonberry.
2.00 P.M.
WATER TREAT!
One of the best ways to see Stockholm is by taking a boat tour along its placid waterways. And a much-recommended way to do that is by securing a spot for yourself in the Under the Bridges tour that departs from the Stadshuset dock. This two-hour journey charts a course under twelve bridges and even passes through the lock that connects Lake Mälaren with the Baltic Sea. All this, as the boat gently glides by the various neighbourhoods of Stockholm affording you views of the inner city, the Old Town, the islands of Södermalm, Lilla and Stora Essingen, the new, skyscraper-ridden area of Hammarby Sjöstad.
WATER TREAT!
One of the best ways to see Stockholm is by taking a boat tour along its placid waterways. And a much-recommended way to do that is by securing a spot for yourself in the Under the Bridges tour that departs from the Stadshuset dock. This two-hour journey charts a course under twelve bridges and even passes through the lock that connects Lake Mälaren with the Baltic Sea. All this, as the boat gently glides by the various neighbourhoods of Stockholm affording you views of the inner city, the Old Town, the islands of Södermalm, Lilla and Stora Essingen, the new, skyscraper-ridden area of Hammarby Sjöstad.
4.30 P.M.
TAKE IN THE FRAGRANCE AT ROSENDALS TRÄDGÅRD
As much as it is ‘blue’ city thanks to all those canals and waterways, Stockholm is also refreshingly green. And that’s not surprising, since more than a third of the city is made up of parks and gardens. And the most fecund of these is Rosendals Trädgård. Situated on the island of Djurgården, on the grounds of King Oscar I’s 19th century palace, this garden which means ‘rose valley’ in Swedish, houses both a rose garden and a fruit orchard. It can be reached by ferry whose dock is a 15-minute stroll from the garden’s gates. It also houses a charming little café that serves some of the most scrumptious kanelbulle or cinnamon rolls which are perfect for the traditional Swedish afternoon coffee break called fika.
TAKE IN THE FRAGRANCE AT ROSENDALS TRÄDGÅRD
As much as it is ‘blue’ city thanks to all those canals and waterways, Stockholm is also refreshingly green. And that’s not surprising, since more than a third of the city is made up of parks and gardens. And the most fecund of these is Rosendals Trädgård. Situated on the island of Djurgården, on the grounds of King Oscar I’s 19th century palace, this garden which means ‘rose valley’ in Swedish, houses both a rose garden and a fruit orchard. It can be reached by ferry whose dock is a 15-minute stroll from the garden’s gates. It also houses a charming little café that serves some of the most scrumptious kanelbulle or cinnamon rolls which are perfect for the traditional Swedish afternoon coffee break called fika.
6.00 P.M.
RETAIL THERAPY AT DROTTNINGGATAN
From the home-spun Swedish brands like the ubiquitous H&M to the other popular high street brands, there can be no better place than Drottninggatan in the heart of Stockholm to find exactly what you’re looking for. Åhlens City, right at the corner of Drottninggatan and Klarabergsgatan, is one of the best department stores in the city, with not just an excellent selection of fashion but also books, homewares, makeup, and a whole lot more.
RETAIL THERAPY AT DROTTNINGGATAN
From the home-spun Swedish brands like the ubiquitous H&M to the other popular high street brands, there can be no better place than Drottninggatan in the heart of Stockholm to find exactly what you’re looking for. Åhlens City, right at the corner of Drottninggatan and Klarabergsgatan, is one of the best department stores in the city, with not just an excellent selection of fashion but also books, homewares, makeup, and a whole lot more.
8.00 P.M.
DINE ON SWEDISH-JAPANESE FUSION CUISINE AT TAK
With the fusion of Swedish and Japanese cuisines as her hallmark, Chef Frida Ronge has been the recipient of prestigious awards such as the “Rising Star of the Year” by White Guide 2013. Her brand-new restaurant, bar and terrace TAK which opened in April 2017 at Brunkebergstorg in central Stockholm boasts of a 1,000 sq m space, while giving you an amazing view over Stockholm’s rooftops. Making your dinner of dishes like Arctic char with daikon and soy sauce-cured salmon with trout roe, ginger and pickled Swedish turnip a truly memorable one.
DINE ON SWEDISH-JAPANESE FUSION CUISINE AT TAK
With the fusion of Swedish and Japanese cuisines as her hallmark, Chef Frida Ronge has been the recipient of prestigious awards such as the “Rising Star of the Year” by White Guide 2013. Her brand-new restaurant, bar and terrace TAK which opened in April 2017 at Brunkebergstorg in central Stockholm boasts of a 1,000 sq m space, while giving you an amazing view over Stockholm’s rooftops. Making your dinner of dishes like Arctic char with daikon and soy sauce-cured salmon with trout roe, ginger and pickled Swedish turnip a truly memorable one.
Day 2
8.00 A.M.
VISIT THE GRAND SALUHALL
More commonly known as Saluhall, the Östermalm food hall is one place you simply have to tick off your list of Stockholm icons to visit. Though the original building which was built in 1888 is currently under renovation (till its re-opening in 2018), the temporary market, housed in a modern blonde wood structure bang opposite the old one is a treasure trove of fish, meat, fruits, vegetables and cheeses, among other edible products. Speaking of which, why not breakfast at one of its many restaurants like Lisa Elmqvist that serve everything from cured salmon called gravlax to traditional Swedish dishes like smörgåsen sandwiches on crisp bread called knäckebröd that are buttered, with toppings such as hard cheese, cold cuts, caviar and messmör which is a sweet spread made from butter and whey?
10.00 A.M.
GROOVE YOUR WAY THOUGH THE ABBA MUSEUM
No trip to Sweden can ever be complete without paying homage in some way or form to the legendary 70s, Swedish-born musical quartet of ABBA. The interactive museum is perhaps unlike anything you’ve ever seen before, with not just a permanent exhibition that is full of ABBA memorabilia like stage outfits, instruments, gold records and awards, but also affording you the opportunity to take center stage. The interactive experience here invites you to sing, dance, mix music and try out virtual stage outfits. You can also record your performance and download it from the museum’s homepage with the help of your ticket. Get, set…groove!
GROOVE YOUR WAY THOUGH THE ABBA MUSEUM
No trip to Sweden can ever be complete without paying homage in some way or form to the legendary 70s, Swedish-born musical quartet of ABBA. The interactive museum is perhaps unlike anything you’ve ever seen before, with not just a permanent exhibition that is full of ABBA memorabilia like stage outfits, instruments, gold records and awards, but also affording you the opportunity to take center stage. The interactive experience here invites you to sing, dance, mix music and try out virtual stage outfits. You can also record your performance and download it from the museum’s homepage with the help of your ticket. Get, set…groove!
1.00 P.M.
TAKE A DETOUR TO IKEA
This one is for those who can’t get enough of the cutting edge Swedish design movement. And at the very vortex of this revolution is IKEA—the furniture and home décor chain store that defines the quintessential minimalistic ‘Scandie’ style. An hourly free shuttle bus service departing from outside Stockholm’s central train station takes you on a 20-minute ride to the world’s largest IKEA superstore on the outskirts of the city, where you can not only shop for your home, but also tuck into a lunch of the brand’s famed Swedish meatballs served with dill potatoes and lingonberry jam. And when you’re all done, simply hop back onto the shuttle for a free ride back into town!
TAKE A DETOUR TO IKEA
This one is for those who can’t get enough of the cutting edge Swedish design movement. And at the very vortex of this revolution is IKEA—the furniture and home décor chain store that defines the quintessential minimalistic ‘Scandie’ style. An hourly free shuttle bus service departing from outside Stockholm’s central train station takes you on a 20-minute ride to the world’s largest IKEA superstore on the outskirts of the city, where you can not only shop for your home, but also tuck into a lunch of the brand’s famed Swedish meatballs served with dill potatoes and lingonberry jam. And when you’re all done, simply hop back onto the shuttle for a free ride back into town!
5.00 P.M.
PAY HOMAGE TO OLD STOCKHOLM AT GAMLA STAN
Since its foundations were laid in 1252, Stockholm’s Old Town, Gamla Stan has been and continues to be one of Europe’s largest and best preserved medieval city centers. No great surprise then that it is a quaint, atmospheric part of the city, steeped in history, with narrow streets and grand buildings. It is also home to the stunning Royal Palace where one can often spot the current Queen of Sweden waving out from her balcony. Built in the Neoclassical style, with a Neo-Baroque façade fronted by large Corinthian columns, the Riksdaghuset or the Swedish Parliament is on the tiny island of Helgeandsholmen and is very much worth a visit. As is the Baroque-style Royal Cathedral of Sweden, the Storkyrkan, which is the oldest church in Gamla Stan. First built as a chapel in the 12th century, it was rebuilt as a basilica after a fire destroyed it in the 14th century.
PAY HOMAGE TO OLD STOCKHOLM AT GAMLA STAN
Since its foundations were laid in 1252, Stockholm’s Old Town, Gamla Stan has been and continues to be one of Europe’s largest and best preserved medieval city centers. No great surprise then that it is a quaint, atmospheric part of the city, steeped in history, with narrow streets and grand buildings. It is also home to the stunning Royal Palace where one can often spot the current Queen of Sweden waving out from her balcony. Built in the Neoclassical style, with a Neo-Baroque façade fronted by large Corinthian columns, the Riksdaghuset or the Swedish Parliament is on the tiny island of Helgeandsholmen and is very much worth a visit. As is the Baroque-style Royal Cathedral of Sweden, the Storkyrkan, which is the oldest church in Gamla Stan. First built as a chapel in the 12th century, it was rebuilt as a basilica after a fire destroyed it in the 14th century.
7.30 P.M.
PARTAKE IN A FINE DINE VEGETARIAN MEAL AT RUTABAGA
Make your way here on foot from the Old Town and prepare yourself for a real treat! But first, make sure to have made your dinner reservations way in advance at Rutabaga, the all-veg restaurant by Michelin starred Chef Mathias Dahlgren at the Grand Hôtel in Södra Blasieholmshamnen. As the driving forces behind the New Nordic Cuisine and it’s “dig-where-you-are” ideology, Dahlgren puts out a tasting menu that has everything from a simple, yet evocative ceviche of avocado and jalapeno to grilled asparagus with a romesco sauce. And for dessert, tuck into a healthy olive oil sorbet that is served with thin slices of radish.
PARTAKE IN A FINE DINE VEGETARIAN MEAL AT RUTABAGA
Make your way here on foot from the Old Town and prepare yourself for a real treat! But first, make sure to have made your dinner reservations way in advance at Rutabaga, the all-veg restaurant by Michelin starred Chef Mathias Dahlgren at the Grand Hôtel in Södra Blasieholmshamnen. As the driving forces behind the New Nordic Cuisine and it’s “dig-where-you-are” ideology, Dahlgren puts out a tasting menu that has everything from a simple, yet evocative ceviche of avocado and jalapeno to grilled asparagus with a romesco sauce. And for dessert, tuck into a healthy olive oil sorbet that is served with thin slices of radish.
(An edited version of this article first appeared in the December 2017 issue of Jetwings Domestic in-flight magazine of Jet Airways https://www.jetairways.com/EN/DE/JetExperience/magazines.aspx)
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