Thursday, November 30, 2017

Café Un-Kind!

At best a place that placates those mid-movie munchies, Café Unwind at the newly renovated Metro INOX offers up a ho-hum selection of food and drinks



By Raul Dias

“Blessed is he who expects nothing, for he shall never be disappointed.” Now, that’s one maxim we wish we had chanted repeatedly to ourselves before building up our great expectations from the newly refurbished Metro cinema that now has the ‘INOX’ brand attached to its name. Not very much is different from its previous avatar. Not its gleaming, faux modern art deco interiors which seem to be just the same, save for a bit of additions here and there in the form of a glittering new chandelier and mirrored murals. Not it’s former 5-screen layout. Same. And certainly not its four, lobby-level snack counters which are clubbed under the name Café Unwind. Sure, a big plus point is that one needn’t be in purchase of a movie ticket to enter the lobby and grab a bite at Café Unwind. But still, there was something about the space that didn’t quite spell out ‘café’ to us!
Expecting a ‘proper’ cordoned off café area, with a full-fledged menu, table service et al, we were rather disappointed to see a couple of tables and chairs haphazardly strewn about the lobby with movie goers winding their way between to reach their screens. The all-vegetarian food and mostly fountain-dispensed drinks, we were told rather brusquely, cannot be ordered or delivered table side and that we would have to place and pick up our order from the counter, just like it is in the gazillion cinema multiplexes the city over.
Again, disappointment raised its ugly head when we were told that our first choices of loaded nachos (Rs 240)—or any kind of nachos for that matter—weren’t available. Ditto for the apple pie (Rs 140) and carrot cake (Rs 140). But what we did try was a well-made, superlative Mumbai style masala toast (Rs 172) that was slathered with spicy potato mash and cheddar cheese gratings and served open faced. Introducing us to a wonderful desi popcorn alternative was the medium sized box of chunky chaat dusted makhana or puffed lotus seeds also called fox nuts (Rs 190).
Ne’er too far away, popcorn found itself in the unlikeliest of places—in a milkshake. Thick, flavourful and utterly more-ish the popcorn milkshake (Rs 152) was a creamy treat with the comforting aroma and taste of caramel popcorn in its every sip. Putting the ‘dough’ in doughnut was the stodgy chocolate doughnut (Rs 142) that we had to coax down our throats thanks to its dry, mealy texture and off-putting taste.
We’d probably go back to Café Unwind only if we needed to grab some mid-movie sustenance and only if it is delivered to our seats and leave the lounging about at a proper café for afters.          

TIME: All day
AT: Metro INOX, M.G. Road, Dhobitalao Junction, Marine Lines.
CALL: 8080211111

(An edited version of this review appeared in the 30th November 2017 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India http://www.mid-day.com/articles/mumbai-food-why-this-cafe-inside-a-sobo-multiplex-fails-to-impress/18785155)


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