Dining with a Conscience!

From restaurants staffed by members of the transgender and hearing-impaired communities to disabilities-friendly cafés offering braille menus and more, inclusivity is very much on the menu at a few such path-breaking eateries across India.

By Raul Dias

Third Eye Café, Navi Mumbai
This recently-opened café was launched with the intention of providing not just employment to the third gender, but also giving them a sense of identity and inclusiveness. With a staff of six transgender employees, including the manager and servers, this café dishing out everything from fluffy falafel with tahini yoghurt to a flavoursome butter chicken, truly walks the talk of its motto that’s emblazoned on its walls. It reads, ‘Be The Change You Want To See’.
Palm Beach Galleria Mall, Sector 19D, Vashi, Navi Mumbai 400703. Call: +91-9619204894

Kalakkal Café, Chennai  
As India’s first ever ‘inclusive’ cafe, this ramp-equipped café in Chennai’s Kotturpuram neighbourhood is an initiative by Vidya Sagar, an NGO working for children and adults with special needs. Offerings like their scrumptious burgers and the retro-cool ‘goti’ sodas can not only be ordered off a Braille menu, but also with the aid of their very artistic pictorial menus. But that’s not all. The café has tactile walls and even some eating aids via a few nifty apps like All Access where users can scan logos and QR codes to access audio menus.
No 1, Ranjith Road, Kotturpuram, Chennai 600085. Call: 044-22364712

Om, Bengaluru
A few years ago, Bhavna Jain was looking forward to doing something different at her vegetarian restaurant Om in Bengaluru’s tony neighbourhood of Koramangala. A chance encounter with a visually impaired Bharatanatyam dancer, led Jain to seek the help of EnAble India, an NGO that works with the differently-abled to come up with a Braille menu that she followed up with an audio menu shortly. Today, this modest eatery serving tasty thalis meals sees a steady stream of visually impaired and other differently-abled people making it their de facto hang out spot every day.
18, 36, Ground Floor, Raheja Arcade, Near-Heart Beats, Koramangala 7th Block, Bengaluru 560095. Call: 080-40989595

Sheroes' Hangout, Agra
Run by a group of enterprising acid attack survivors, this bright and cheery café has amassed serious street cred every since it opened its doors a few years ago. And that’s not just because of all that inspiring girl power, but also because of its reasonably priced food. Here, take your pick from a selection of all-veggie delights like the home-style bhindi masala and the Indian street food mainstay, the gobhi Manchurian! The café also serves as a venue for organised events for social interaction such as debates, book launches, social awareness conferences and music session among other socially relevant initiatives.
Fatehabad Road, Opposite The Gateway Hotel, Taj View Chowraha, Tajganj, Agra 282001. Call: 0562-4000401

Mirchi & Mime, Mumbai
Two of this fine dining Indian cuisine restaurant’s greatest calling cards are a well-curated menu—with delights such as a melt-in-the mouth mushroom galouti kebab and a guinea fowl done Lahori style—and its wait staff. The latter is made up entirely of well-trained hearing and speech-impaired individuals. All the diner needs to do is simply point at the illustrated menu card and indicate the number of portions. An easy-to-follow gesture glossary is also appended to the menu to facilitate other dining accoutrements like cutlery, crockery, salt, pepper and spices.  
Trans Ocean House, Lake Boulevard, Hiranandani Business Park, Powai, Mumbai 400076. Call: 022-41415151


(An edited version of this piece was first published in the 9th April, 2018 issue of India Today magazine)

August in March…

A mélange of understated Euro-chic décor accents and some well-priced comfort food from around the world is the perfect ingredient for a promising lunch at the bright and cheery little August Cafe in Andheri West.  

FOOD Excellent
SERVICE Enthusiastic
AMBIENCE Elegant
COST Moderate
VERDICT Very Good (**)

By Raul Dias

Never has the adage ‘good things come in small packages’ been more appropriate as we attempt to distil the essence of what makes August Cafe such a perfect little all-day dining place. Its vintage-style black and white chequerboard floor tile clad interior space—accentuated by a brick archway and decorated with European flea market bric-a-brac—provides barely enough elbow room. What with the tiny, faux marble-topped tables jostling for their own precious little real estate space here. And while the outside, partially covered patio area seems perfect for an evening visit, the torrid heat makes it a no-go zone for us to tuck into our lunch at.
And so, we settle down inside the cool (in more ways than one!) cafe, paying a deaf ear, quite literally, to the cacophony emanating from the table next to us, where the topics du jour range from a bloody cut finger to a cantankerous old mother-in-law. But that does not put us off enjoying our first order of a well-made pulled chicken toasted sandwich (Rs 300). Juicy bits of mustard mayonnaise coated chicken are ensconced in a lighter-than-air ciabatta bread with a side of arugula and cubed potato salad we wished there was more of! The home-made peach iced tea (Rs 150) and a double shot espresso (Rs 180) are suitably straightforward, with the latter giving any Italian caffé a run for its money with its robust, freshly ground taste.
Though it was all things a good plate of nachos should be, i.e. crisp tortilla chips, dollops of cooling guacamole, sour cream and pico de gallo, well-seasoned beans, all slathered with a silken cheese sauce, the misspelled ‘worlds’ best nachos (Rs 350) was also perhaps the world’s smallest portion of nachos and not to mention a grammar Nazi’s worst nightmare! Stinting on the promised popcorn flavour, the caramel popcorn shake (Rs 250) was a sickly-sweet overdose of caramel and served at a temperature that can best be described as tepid.
With a replay of the blood-dripping cut finger conversation in full force next door, we decided to skip the marinara pizza (Rs 350) and treat ourselves to something different. And that took the form of the very unconventional chicken cremosa pizza (Rs 550). Served on a Neapolitan-style thin crust base, this white sauce, caramelised onions and rosemary-scented chicken topped pie eschews both the ubiquitous tomato sauce and mozzarella cheese to very effective results, we might add.
With nothing else spelling comfort food like an all-American sundae, we chose to indulge ourselves with the August ice cream sundae (Rs 300). A perfectly constructed specimen, this one had all the trappings of a great sundae with a warm truffle cookie serving as the gooey foundation for a double scoop of vanilla bean ice cream, topped with lashings of caramel sauce and finished off with a shower of crunchy nut brittle shards.
And while we can’t wait to go back and try the rest of the menu, we’d do well to remember to sit ourselves outdoors next time and pay a deaf ear to the din inside!
   

TIME: 12pm to 12am
AT: Shop 3&4, Sterling Apartment, Sundervan Complex, Off Link Road, Andheri West.
CALL: 49725993

(An edited version of this review appeared in the 30th March 2018 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India https://www.mid-day.com/articles/this-new-cafe-in-andheri-might-be-small-in-size-but-is-big-on-taste/19263183)

Simply, Truly South Australia!

As one of Australia’s most beautiful states, South Australia has a lot to offer in terms of world-class attractions, nature and yes, superb food and wine. Raul Dias shows you five ways to get the most out of your trip to the state capital Adelaide and its surrounding regions.

I simply have got to say this. I have never been a big fan of Adelaide. Having visited the city—that I remember as being the sleepy and lacklustre capital of the state of South Australia—on two occasions a few years ago, I was not very impressed. But last month, all that changed, and I did a complete volte-face, crazy in my new-found love for Adelaide.
But then again, I’ve always believed in second… or in this case, third chances. Having been made amply aware by a few local friends of how much Adelaide has changed in the past six years since my last trip, I decided to check it out with renewed interest all over again.
And so, I packed my bags and winged it all the way Down Under for a week in Adelaide and its neighbouring areas. Here are five ways that helped me fall in love with the city by the River Torrens:

1.      Roof Climb at Adelaide Oval
Widely regarded as the most picturesque test cricket ground in the world, with the St. Peter’s Cathedral rising behind an old, wooden Edwardian-style scoreboard and Moreton Bay fig trees at the northern end, the Adelaide Oval is a city icon. Established in 1871, the historic stadium underwent a massive overhaul in 2014 and a few years later in 2016 one the most fun things to do in Adelaide was started here. The Roof Climb is a guided tour that runs for about two hours and covers a distance of 1.2km in total, climbing up and down ladders and multiple flights of stairs, walking on open metal grate walkways and a stepped bridge. Climbers are harnessed and attached to the railing at all times, but you’ll still need to overcome a fear of heights, especially at the peak of the climb on the Riverbank stand where you’re meant to ‘hang out’ quite literally all for a keepsake photo! (www.roofclimb.com.au)

2.      Riding the coffee circuit with Eco Caddy
Adelaide loves its coffee and the many hip new coffee places that have mushroomed up recently are testament to this sudden surge. The guys at Eco Caddy offer a perfect way to get acquainted with this coffee fad. Revolutionising the rickshaw by providing the most cost-effective city transport, Eco Caddy offer rides for a fee in their eco-friendly cycle rickshaws with a buggy at the back with enough space for two passengers. They also do specialised tours that boast an unrivalled ability to ride the footpaths, cycleways, parkways and laneways of Adelaide. The coffee experience takes you on a ride to four interesting coffee places where you can get a real pulse of the city. What’s more is that during special events and festivals like the world music festival WOMADelaide (which was on when I was visiting!), the Eco Caddy drivers offer free trips to all those desirous of going for a short spin. I strongly recommend this one. (www.eco-caddy.com)

3.      Adelaide Central Market Tour
For the last couple of years, Australia and more specifically South Australia has been at the vanguard for some serious foodie action with a number of celebrity chefs like TV superstar Poh Ling Yeow and Chef Sean Connolly calling Adelaide home. The best way to get a little sliver of all that foodie action is to get yourselves booked onto a food tour. And top of the list is the Adelaide Central Market Tour. But first a little about the market that it operates out of. Since 1869, the Central Market has been a haven of premium food and wine products, and second home to chefs and food lovers. In fact, Poh even has her popular restaurant Jamface housed inside the market. The tours are sensory and interactive gourmet walking tours with a local food expert. Participants enjoy a range of delicious samples that represent the multicultural community of South Australia and the clean and green produce harvested from surrounding farms and oceans. (www.centralmarkettour.com.au)

4.      The Cube at Mc Laren Vale
Take the food thing a few notches higher at an experience of a lifetime at Mc Laren Vale, an hour out of Adeliade. The family owned d’Arenberg Wines is a winery on top of a hill and is well-known for its robust wines. But since December 2017 it has another ace up its sleeve. The Rubik’s Cube-esque, five-levelled d’Arenberg Cube that’s inspired by the complexities and puzzles of winemaking, has been carefully designed to entice and excite the senses. The top level houses the d’Arenberg cellar door and private tasting areas, offering the opportunity to blend and bottle your own wine. And for those serious about their food, try the 10- or 16-course degustation meals, paired with some of the yummiest wine you will ever taste. (www.darenberg.com.au)

5.      Wine, wine and more wine at The Barossa
Enjoy the bucolic charms of the Barossa Valley an hour away from Adelaide—where vineyards abound in a fecund landscape that will give Tuscany a serious complex. The Barossa truly is akin to an adult’s wine wonderland with world class wineries and cellar doors like Jacob’s Creek, Penfolds and Seppeltsfield Wines. The Barossa thrives on a living heritage, food markets, quality wines, old preserved buildings, and a wealth of culinary pleasures. A great experience to have here is the ‘Taste Your Birth Year Tour’ at Seppeltsfield Wines where you will join one of the wine educators in the renowned Centennial Cellar and sip on a wine as old (or young...) as you are directly from the barrel. (www.seppeltsfield.com.au)

FACT FILE

Getting there
Although there are no direct flights from Mumbai to Adelaide, the best way to get there is via Singapore on Singapore Airlines. Travelling within the city of Adelaide and to the neighbouring areas of The Barossa and McLaren Vale is easy, given its small size, and most places are under an hour away from each other. Adelaide’s super-efficient buses, taxis, hired cars, eco caddy cabs and trams make travelling a treat! Indian passport holders need a visa to enter Australia, which is easy to procure with the introduction of the very efficient e-visa facility.

When to visit
With South Australia enjoying pleasant climate during the autumn and spring seasons, the best months to travel are from March to May and from September to early November. Summers from December to February can get a bit hot.

Accommodation
Adelaide has an excellent selection of hotels to choose from to suit all budgets and tastes. Some of the best options are:
* Hilton Adelaide
* Pullman Adelaide
* Intercontinental Adelaide

For more information, visit www.southaustralia.com

(An edited version of this article appeared in the 30th March 2018 issue of the Afternoon Despatch & Courier newspaper, India on page 16 http://www.afternoondc.in/48-hrs/simply-truly-south-australia/article_219514)

Notes from Adelaide

By Raul Dias

If the city of Adelaide, perched on the banks of South Australia’s River Torrens were to be a person, then it would most surely be accused of having a split personality disorder! How else does one come to grips with its colonial architecture—all red brick walls and iron trellis-clad verandas—melding almost seamlessly with startlingly modern glass and steel buildings and public spaces.
A perfect example of this unlikely coupling of old and new is reflected in the hallowed Adelaide Oval. This multi-utility sports stadium, that sees everything from Australian Rules football to soccer and yes, of course—cricket played in it, is testament to how comfortable Adelaide is with keeping up with the times yet clinging on precariously to its heritage.

All About The Numbers
Established in 1871, the historic Oval underwent a massive overhaul in 2014, retaining very little of its past in the form of the original redbrick, arched western wall and a few other minor heritage details. In keeping with its snazzy new image, a few years later in 2016, it threw open its doors …. or perhaps I should say its roof, to adrenaline junkies to climb all over, much in the same fashion as Sydney’s Harbour Bridge did a decade or so ago.
50,083 is the overall seating capacity of the stadium now. 535 million is the cost in Australian dollars of the mammoth 2014 overhaul of the Oval. But that’s not inclusive of the 40 million dollars it took to construct the pedestrian bridge fording the River Torrens, linking the Adelaide railway station precinct with the Adelaide Oval precinct.
Speaking of which, one of the most beautiful parts of the stadium complex has got to be the Edwardian style scoreboard with its scorecards that need to be manually changed to this very day. First used in 1911, the wooden scoreboard is listed on the City of Adelaide Heritage Register, helping to maintain the charm of the ground. There is even a bar located under the scoreboard, for nervous climbers to unwind at post climb.

Taking On An Icon
Now, to a non-cricket fan and an occasional sufferer of vertigo like myself, the prospect of indulging in a roof climb at the Oval was akin to getting my molars pulled out at the dentist, sans anaesthesia! But as the saying goes “when in Australia, do as the adventure sports loving Aussies do”. Egged on by my motely posse of pals, I signed the two-page indemnity sheet and put my life in the hands of Katie our guide and roof climb instructor for the day.
Believe me when I say that the pre-climb briefing and donning the safety harness were infinitely scarier than the actual roof climb itself. The guided climb runs for about two hours and covers a distance of 1.2 kilometres in total, climbing up and down ladders and multiple flights of stairs, walking on open metal grate walkways and a stepped bridge.
Kitted out to the hilt as though preparing for a trip to outer space, wearing a special shell suit, an audio system with an over-ear piece, and with various cords, buckles and hooks preventing us from plummeting to the soft (?) Astro Turf below, we trudged along a gangway to the very apex of the roof. Although fastened at all times to the moving guide rail, the sheer 50 metres drop took a wee bit of getting used to, especially at the peak of the climb on the Riverbank stand.

Say Cheese!
Curving outwards, the overhanging lip of the roof at this stand is the spot for all those cheesy, arms wide open photo ops as you lean back and hope to God your harness does what you’ve prayed its meant to do. Biting the bait of pure, undiluted adrenaline, I did just that, ending it all with a perfunctory keepsake picture snapped by a friend.
And while I’ve obviously lived to tell the tale, I don’t think an encore is something that I’d necessarily consider in the near future. Now, did I hear someone say bungee?

(An edited version of this article first appeared in the 25th March 2018 issue of The Hindu newspaper's Sunday Magazine section on page 7 http://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/travel/adelaide-an-unlikely-coupling-of-old-and-new/article23334249.ece)

A-N-A-T-O-M-I-Z-E: Prohibition Pop-up Cocktail

By Raul Dias

Lasting for more than a decade, from 1920 right up to 1933, prohibition in the United States was
an era that celebrated the word ‘clandestine’ like no other, thanks to a constitutional ban on the
production, importation, transportation, and sale of alcoholic beverages. Surreptitiously hidden
from the nosey authorities, speakeasy bars sprung up in people’s basements and garages across
the country, with alcohol often distilled in bathtubs and kitchen sinks!
These were places where copious amounts of alcohol mingled with the strains of a jazz band,
while flapper-styled girls danced the Charleston till the wee hours of the morn. One often
required a password to enter and was told to keep conversation light and easy, so as to avoid any
unnecessary and attention-drawing flare ups. Hence the term ‘speakeasy’.
Interestingly, even the cocktails that were concocted during this period were often designed to
hoodwink the authorities. In order to mask the strong smell and taste of home distillations such
as hooch and moonshine, several stronger tinctures and tonics like the orange-y Angostura bitters
and grenadine were blended into the cocktails.
Very much on trend today, the prohibition era-style cocktail has spurred on several interesting
iterations the world over. One that I recently came across is particularly interesting. Served at the
new Pra Pra Prank brasserie in Gurugram and simply called ‘Prohibition Pop Up’, this bourbon-
based cocktail is as much a visual delight, as it is deceptively potent.
Inspired by the time people used to have their drinks hidden within the fold of a newspaper, the
cocktail is the sum of its coffee, popcorn-infused bourbon and ginger syrup parts. Topped off
with a dash of spicy bitters and a generous pour of stout at the end, it comes to the table
overflowing with a candied popcorn garnish, all wrapped in a sheet of faux newsprint paper.

(This column first appeared in the 18th March 2018 issue of The Hindu newspaper's Sunday Magazine section on page 8 http://www.thehindu.com/todays-paper/tp-features/tp-sundaymagazine/prohibition-pop-up/article23283133.ece)

Dance Macabre: Funeral Tales From South East Asia

By Raul Dias

Costing Thailand’s exchequer a jaw-dropping $90 million, the recently concluded five-day long cremation ceremony for the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej was one of the most elaborate, gold-saturated farewells the world had ever seen. But the extremely high premium on ensuring the soul of the departed enters the next realm with pomp and circumstance isn’t limited only to the country’s almost God-like monarch.
For over a century, Thais of all social strata have been getting funeral books called nang sue ngam sop dedicated to them, as a very integral part of their funeral ceremonies. Ranging in size from proper, leather-bound tomes to more modest flip through, stapled booklets, these funeral books are part of a long-held tradition of gifts given out to attendees at funerals. In fact, the first funeral book, of which 10,000 copies were made, was said to have been written in 1882 on the orders of King Chulalongkorn and dedicated to the memory of his wife Queen Sunanda Kumariratana and his daughter Princess Kannabhorn Bejaratana who died of drowning when the royal barge carrying them capsized into Bangkok’s Chao Phraya River.  
And while examples of necrological literature around the world are plenty—with references to Roman, Greek and Egyptian books of the dead—the Thai nang sue ngam sop is a genre unto itself. Written generally by someone who knew the deceased well, these self-published books often contain detailed accounts from various aspects of their loved one’s life, including personal stories and anecdotes, all illustrated with photographs displaying cherished family portraits, graduation pictures and weddings.
But one of the most interesting inclusions in these books that bring their importance right at the fore of Thailand’s zeitgeisty fine dining scene are the collection of recipes that they contain. Old, cherished family favourites that the deceased savoured during their lifetime find prime position in these funeral books. Reading like any other well-researched and tried-n-tested cook book recipe, these contain tips, cheat sheets and even directions to the best markets to source the choicest ingredients!
So popular is the trend of culling these recipes, that one of the country’s top restaurants Nahm in Bangkok has an entire menu of dishes based on such recipes. Chef David Thompson, the man behind this fine dining haven, boasts of a collection of over 500 Thai funeral books that he painstakingly sourced, each of them featuring a unique recipe that he then distilled into his creations.
Gives a whole other meaning to the term ‘The dead do tell tales’, doesn’t it?

***

There’s no denying the fact that the party-obsessed Filipinos love a good rumpus. One that’s always fuelled by copious amounts of eating, drinking and the national pass time—singing karaoke. Ne’er an occasion goes by in the Philippines without some party of sorts to liven up the mood. And even a death in the family is no exception, where celebrating the deceased’s life is the most important of all things.
In fact, so elaborate and ostentatious can the funeral, and the wake before that get, that, it’s not uncommon for a wake, called paglalamay in Tagalog, to go on for as long as 10 days before the burial! The main reason for this is due to the fact that there are over 10 million balikbayan or Overseas Filipino Workers (OFWs), with most families having at least one such member working abroad who needs time to make it back for the funeral and burial.
It’s during these round-the-clock paglalamays that the family of the deceased is expected to feed and take care of the mourners who come by to pay their respects, with feasts and entertainment. Yes, karaoke included. And why not? In the Philippines the wake is meant to be a lively affair—a way to keep the grieving distracted and those keeping vigil awake.
Now, all this amounts to a neat little expense packet for the family, that many can ill-afford. So, in order to defray the expenses, it is perfectly acceptable for gambling syndicates to set up shop, slap bang in the middle of the wake, where the proceeds of the bets usually go to the family. The most common of all betting games is sakla, the local Pinoy (the Tagalog equivalent of the term-desi) version of Spanish tarot cards. This game is particularly common at wakes, because the family of the deceased gets a share of the winnings to help cover funeral expenses.
So popular and profitable are these wake wagers, that very often canny gambling syndicates are known to stage fake wakes in order to provide a venue for serious gamblers, because of the general lack of enforcement at funerals. Taking things to levels beyond morbidity, these fake wakes even have stand-in corpses that are often unclaimed bodies ‘rented’ from morgues.
Truly the lucrative business of death at its mercenary worst!
   

***

In her hesitant, but perfectly comprehensible English, she tells me her name is Xiu Ying and that she’s just turned 18. But one look at her waifish, schoolgirl frame and her shifty gaze lets me know that she might be embellishing the truth to a large degree. Dressed in a black sequined, corseted bustier and a matching pair of micro shorts that cling to her fishnet stockinged thighs, she takes center stage, gyrating to the strains of a disco-style pop song. As the song progresses, Xiu Ying begins to divest herself of her costume’s components. Her glossy white sailor hat is the first casualty, while her six-inch high, clear plexiglass stilettos are the last…
You’d be forgiven for thinking that I’m in some seedy strip club in the heart of Kunming. I’m actually at the funeral of an 86-year-old grandfather of five at his home on the outskirts of Kunming—the capital of China’s southern Yunnan province. And Xiu Ying, like thousands of other young ladies is a member of China’s burgeoning funeral stripping industry. Hired to serve three purposes: celebrate the life of the deceased, appease wandering spirits, as well as attract and entertain mourners.
But all this doesn’t bode well for China’s Ministry of Culture, who have warned people to stop hiring strippers, while vowing to stamp out the practice with the help of the police, claiming that “these types of illegal operations disrupt order of the cultural market in the countryside and corrupt social morals and manners.” Interestingly, the business of funeral stripping is more popular outside the big cities. A report in the Wall Street Journal a few years ago, found that in rural parts of China, there were a dozen “funeral performance troupes” which put on shows regularly, sometimes 20 in a month, and were paid roughly 2,000 yuan (about Rs 20,000) by the family of the deceased, for each performance.
Not just China, but even neighbouring Taiwan seems to have cottoned onto this trend. While Taiwan has always had the custom of hiring professional mourners, much like the rudaalis of Rajasthan, it is believed that the funeral stripper evolved almost residually from these paid mourners. Many of whom are known to sing, play musical instruments and even perform acrobatic feats for the entertainment of the funeral attendees. But unlike their Chinese counterparts who perform only at the homes of the deceased, Taiwan’s funeral strippers perform on dianzi huache which are trucks that have been converted—carnival float style—into stages so that these women can sing, dance and do their bit as a truck drives ahead of the funeral procession.      


(An edited version of this article first appeared in the 11th March 2018 issue of The Hindu newspaper's Sunday Magazine section on page 7 http://www.thehindu.com/society/history-and-culture/south-asias-radical-funeral-customs-death-and-all-his-friends/article23000043.ece)

A Dhaka Day!

All it takes is a day in Bangladesh’s bustling capital Dhaka to fall in love with it—never mind its gritty countenance and unbridled urban chaos. Here are five ways to discover the charms of this city by the Buriganga River

1. For Old Times’ Sake
I’d really suggest starting your day in the city by taking in the faded—if not lost—splendour of Old Dhaka on foot. This, I learned was the best way to explore this compact precinct of the city. A visit to the pink-hued Ahsan Manzil housed at the top end of a busy alley, is an ideal way to begin. As the former official residential palace and seat of the Dhaka Nawab Family, this 144-year-old edifice is today converted into a museum with all the regalia on full display.
Dodge your way through Dhaka’s insane traffic and pay obeisance at the serene Armenian Church in the Armanitola area. Here, you can still see old gravestones inscribed in the traditional Armenian script. Just a mere 300 meters north of the church, you will find the Sitara Mosque that is distinct, in that, its four domes are entirely decorated with mosaic tiled stars. So iconic is this mosque, that it even finds a place of glory for itself on the face of a Tk10 (ten Bangladeshi taka) note.
Finish off your blast from the past with yet another walk. This time, to the magnificent 17th Century Lalbagh Fort that is famous for being unfinished after it was allegedly cursed. It houses the very beautiful Tomb of Pari Bibi, the daughter of Shaista Khan that is in the middle of the complex. Flanking it on either side is the Diwani-i-Aam hammam and the Lalbagh Fort Mosque on the eastern side, making it a veritable ‘Taj Mahal of Bangladesh’.

2. Architectural Marvels
An easy mid-day, pre-lunch walk into the city’s downtown University area is sure to reward you with serendipitous findings like the red-brick Curzon Hall. Built in the colonial-meets-Saracenic style of architecture, this 110-year-old building, that was intended to serve as the Dhaka town hall, is today part the University’s school of science.
A little further down the road you will encounter the stunning ivory Supreme Court building and its well-manicured lawns. Next, take a detour to Central Dhaka to get a glimpse of the city’s true piece de resistance—the startlingly modern and abstract looking National Assembly Building or Jatiyo Sangsad Bhaban in Sher-e-Bangla Nagar. A true architectural marvel, built from 1961 to 1982, the building is based on the designs of American Modernist architect Louis Kahn. With a moat-like water body surrounding it, thus referencing the country’s ‘water world’ moniker, the main building is made up of huge walls deeply recessed by porticoes and large openings of regular geometric shapes that let the light stream in.


4. Have an ‘Art Attack’
If the super-popular, annual Dhaka Art Summit is any indication of this city’s prowess as a repository of art, then you better believe that the art scene here is not just alive, but thriving, even! Pay a visit to the city’s various art galleries like the eclectic Dhaka Art Centre in Dhanmondi that houses pieces by both local artists like Mishuk Munier and Ruhul Karim Rumee as well as international ones.
But if kitsch art is more your scene, then take a colourful cycle rickshaw ride to the famous Bicycle Street also called Bangsal Road. This luridly decorated part of the city, along with the adjoining Kazi Alauddin Road, is lined with shops selling bicycles of all kind, as well as with stalls that do the special pop rickshaw art that you will encounter in all its gaudy glory adorning the millions of cycle rickshaws plying all over Dhaka.
In the same area, a few yards away, at the 300-year-old Hindu Street called Shankharia Bazaar tune into the sounds of workmen fashioning intricate pieces of jewellery from gold and other precious metals. Interestingly, this area is also regarded as the ‘Ground Zero’ of Dhaka’s Hindu community and come Durga Puja season, it is transformed into an open-air arts museum where pandals are set up with idols and other assorted religious iconography for you to get your fill of.

5. A Sunset Cruise Along the Buriganga River 
Finish off your Dhaka day of discovery with a languid cruise down the Buriganga River sailing on a tiny wooden boat. A grey, marshy, unappealing eyesore by day, this waterbody undergoes a remarkable metamorphosis come evening as the pink rays of the evening sun slowly light it up. You can hire a wooden boat for around TK150 (Rs 116 approx.) per hour at the chaotic Sadarghat Boat Terminal in South Dhaka and ride the placid waters of this river that gets its name from the Bangla word for old lady—bhuri.
Don’t forget to take in the spectacular sight of the large, rusty multi-storied steamer ships with funny names like ‘NASA’ and ‘Hydro King’ that take passengers on journeys to other places in in the country like Chittagong and Sundarbans. Trust me, there simply couldn’t be a more perfect way to end your tryst with Dhaka—a city that will hold you in her vice-like grip, only to release you when you give in to her unconventional charms!


What to Buy and Where?
* Colourful art work paying homage to Dhaka’s famous cycle rickshaws. Try Jatra at Kemal Ataturk Avenue for all things art and kitsch.
* Superb indigenously produced fabrics like Dhakai (jamdani) muslin and tangail that take the form of sarees, curtain material etc at the Wholesale Cloth Market at Islampur.
* Readymade apparel—as Dhaka is the center of garment production for some of the world’s top high street brands. As the12th largest mall in the world, Bashundhara City in Bashundhara is your place.
* All things jute like jute bags, shoes, slippers and home décor objects. Kumudini Handicrafts in the posh Gulshan neighbourhood of the city is a great store we’d recommend.

(An edited version of this article first appeared in the March 2018 issue of Jetwings Domestic in-flight magazine of Jet Airwayshttp://www.jetairways.com/EN/IN/jetexperience/magazines.aspx)