Sausagefest

By Raul Dias 

Flavours of the World at Oktoberfest
Over the last couple of years, one sees an interesting food trend emerging out of the mighty tents at Oktoberfest. One that embraces world cuisine with all its might, making the following dishes bona fide Oktoberfest staples and not just exotic flavours of the season:

* Doner Kebab-What the world knows and loves as shawarma, the Germans call doner kebab. This new, Middle East-originated, Oktoberfest favourite contains rotisserie-style grilled strips of meat called gyros ensconced in a warm pita bread along with lettuce, onions and tomatoes, all slathered in a garlic-y mayonnaise-like sauce called thum.

* Paella-What’s not to love about this fragrant, saffron-perfumed rice preparation studded with bits of seafood, chicken and vegetables like peas and sweet bell peppers? And concurring with this estimation of the Spanish dish are the hordes of people that line the many stalls at Oktoberfest waiting for a bite of the festival’s favourite comfort food.

* Burritos-Though not traditionally Mexican, this Tex-Mex dish—which is the sum of its tomato rice, salsa, refried beans, guacamole, cheese, sour cream, hot sauce and roast meat parts, all wrapped in a flour tortilla—is perfect for soaking up all that post-revellery alcohol! 

(An edited version of this article first appeared in the September 2018 issue of Jetwings International in-flight magazine of Jet Airways http://www.jetairways.com/EN/IN/jetexperience/magazines.aspx)

Galle: Where Time Stands Still…

Situated at the very tip of the island of Sri Lanka, the historic city of Galle with its strong colonial influence and easy, laid-back vibe is a great holiday destination, offering a whole host of activities for you to partake in, says Raul Dias who tried out a few on a recent holiday

By Raul Dias

       

Let me be upfront with you. My very first encounter with Galle had left me heartbroken. It was exactly 11 months after the horrific 26^th December 2004 tsunami had all but decimated this once-beautiful city of Sri Lanka that sits at the very southern tip of the island nation. Everywhere I looked, a sea of rubble and reconstruction at a feverish pace assaulted by eyes. The historic Fort area where I was told the “real” Galle was, was unfortunately sealed off to non-residents and thus out of bounds for travellers like myself.
It was then that I made a promise to myself that I’d wait and let Galle rejuvenate before I set foot there once again. Little did I know then that it would be almost 13 years after that I’d be back. And boy, was I in for the surprise of my life or what.

Rise of the Phoenix
August 2018 and the Galle that showed itself to me was a complete volte-face from the one of my memories. Clean, freshly swept streets, whitewashed walls with colourful bougainvillea creeping all over them. Happy, smiling people greeted me everywhere I went. And not a single remnant of the earlier carnage of Mother Nature marred this new facet Galle was showing me. And yes, this time I not only got to ‘see’ the stunning Fort area but live in it as well!
My Airbnb accommodation, the brand new Yara Galle Fort boutique hotel—where my friends and I were the third set of guests to be welcomed into—is a magnificently restored former Dutch Colonial style home. Located in the very heart of the Fort, the hotel, I was told, was first built in the mid-1700s and is a mere 70 meters away from the pristine white painted Dutch Reformed Church.
Speaking of churches, for an area as small (130 acres) as the Fort, it sure had a lot of places of worship. From the Meeran Jumma Mosque opposite the lighthouse and the serene Sri Sudharmalaya Buddhist Temple on Parawa Street to the beautiful Anglican All Saints Church a few yards ahead of the Dutch Church, all exist in perfect harmony with each other.

A Walk Though History
Desirous of a more in-depth historical recounting of Galle that no amount of reading can provide, I signed up for the newly curated Airbnb Experiences’ ‘Galle Fort Walks with a Local’. Conducted by Atheeq, a budding travel photographer and fifth-generation member of a prominent gem trading Galle family, this 1.5 hours-long walk came highly recommended and something I was looking forward to.
And so, after a lunch of a yummy fish burger—made with chunks of tuna marinated in the local, jet black-coloured ambulthiyal spice mix that I enjoyed at the wonderfully ‘punny’ named Tequila Mockingbird Bar and Grill in the Old Hospital Building—we were off on foot to explore Galle with a local and yes, “like a local” as is the idea behind this Experiences initiative by Airbnb!
Here, we were shown places like the still-functioning court house, the town square in front of it and the Fort’s lighthouse that was built only post WWII, showing us that the Fort area kept evolving. The Portuguese, Dutch, and British occupied the Galle Fort at various points during Sri Lanka’s colonial history, and they have each left a unique imprint on its fabric. As we navigated our way through the Fort’s charming alleyways at a leisurely pace, a fascinating blend of local design traditions and European colonial influence became evident in the architectural style of its many interesting structures. Atheeq made sure to keep the walk peppered with interesting facts, stories, and myths, all interwoven by the unique perspective and narrative of a local like himself, who knows this terrain as well as the back of his hand. And as a parting treat, we were taken to Galle’s best gelato shop named Isle of Gelato for some divine treats like the pistachio and orange-cinnamon double scoop that I happily gourmandised.

Surf’s Up!
As one of the world’s leading new surfing hot-spots, with their impressive swells, the waters off the beaches in and around Galle are fast becoming a haven for surfers who flock to them in droves. And so, recognising this is another fun initiative by Airbnb Experiences—learning to surf with surfing guru Oshan Diluk.
Born and raised in beautiful Hikkaduwa a little further up from Galle, Oshan knows the best places around Galle to host successful surf lessons especially for beginners. With over four years of experience as a surfing instructor he provides a whole lot of tips and advice to help you ride your first waves. Interestingly, Oshan also volunteers to teach the local kids in Sri Lanka how to surf and many of his students have progressed and got scholarships to learn advanced level surfing in places like Indonesia, the surfing capital of Asia.
The first part of the 1.5 hours-long lesson takes place at the beach, where one can get an idea on how to find balance and the right posture on the board. Oshan make sure to also spend some time talking about safety rules and surfers’ etiquette. Afterwards you get to hit the water to put that theory into practice.
A hands-on holiday where you do a whole lot more than just ‘site-see’, now that’s Galle for you!
    

FACT FILE
Getting There
There are daily direct flights from most cities in India to Sri Lanka’s capital Colombo on airlines like Srilankan Airlines, Jet Airways, Air India and Spice Jet. Travel within Sri Lanka is easy with many buses, mini vans and car hire companies offering their services. The journey from Colombo to Galle using the super-efficient expressway is a comfortable two-hour drive.

When to Visit
The months from October to February are the best time to travel to Galle, when the region experiences a pleasant climate with plenty of cultural and artistic events taking place in and around the region.

Accommodation
Though Galle has an excellent selection of hotels to choose from to suit all budgets and tastes, why not get more up close and personal with the city and live like a local? Airbnb has an amazing portfolio of vacation homes that you can rent out. Visit www.airbnb.co.in for more information on accommodation options and the new, curated Airbnb Experiences in Galle.

(An edited version of this article appeared in the 31st August 2018 issue of the Afternoon Despatch & Courier newspaper, India on pages 14 and 15 http://www.afternoondc.in/48-hrs/galle-where-time-stands-still/article_230568)

Jet-Set…Go!

Oozing unbridled glamour and hedonistic sophistication, St. Moritz with its stunning hotels, placid lake and gentle hiking trails is Switzerland’s ultimate holiday destination of the jet-set. On a recent trip there, Raul Dias got a taste of this legendary high-life

By Raul Dias

Do pardon the header to this piece that I’ve shamelessly ‘pinched’ from the lines of one of my favourite songs of all time—Peter Sarstedt’s 1969 hit single Where Do You Go to My Lovely. But you see, a place like St. Moritz, Switzerland does makes us do things we’d normally never do! Yes, even as I write this piece today, Sarstedt’s lyrics “and when the snow falls you’re found in St. Moritz, with the others of the jet set. And you sip your Napoleon brandy, but you never get your lips wet, no you don’t” ring in my ears…

Glam with a Capital ‘G’!
Cut to a few weeks ago, when I found myself fresh off a train from Zurich, deposited at the tiny, but functional St. Moritz train station. Waiting for me outside was a souped-up jet black 1960s Rolls-Royce Phantom, that my chauffeur told me was once owned by none other than Her Majesty Elizabeth II, Queen of England. And just like that my initiation into the charms and glamour of St. Moritz had begun and I hadn’t even left the train station.
My destination? The Badrutt’s Palace Hotel that has been synonymous with glamour, the quintessence of refined luxury and understated, yet very present, glitz for the last 122 years since opening in 1896. Over the years, the hotel has always been ‘the place to be’ for those seeking the ultimate mountain holiday experience. But more on this stunning hotel later, first a little bit on its host town.
As the birthplace of modern winter tourism that began in 1864, St. Moritz nestled cozily in Switzerland’s Engadin valley in the Canton of Graubünden, has hosted the Winter Olympics twice. Nevertheless, St. Moritz first became famous thanks to its mineral springs, which were discovered 3,000 years ago and established the lake-side town as a summer spa resort early on.
Interestingly, St. Moritz’s history is peppered with a whole list of ‘firsts’ showing us how ahead of its times it really was. For example, the first electric light went on at Christmastime in 1878, the first golf tournament in the Alps took place here, in 1889 and one of the first ski lifts in Switzerland began running in 1935. The town even has its own leaning tower, a jaunty remnant of the Mauritius Church from around 1500.  
Today, glamour-seekers from all over the world descend upon St. Mortiz with a vengeance, hungry for the modern Alpine lifestyle, characterised by top-class restaurants that can satisfy gourmet demands and hotels that set standards in every category.

Inspiration Galore
And speaking of hotels, The Badrutt’s Palace Hotel which was my home for the next two nights overlooks the mirror-like surfaced Lake St. Moritz that functions as the town square in winter when it forms a layer of ice so thick that even horse racing can take place over it! The hotel itself is an oasis of luxury and understated elegance with its 157 rooms and suites all done up in an old-world style, all affording breathtaking views of the St. Moritz Alps.
Over the two days, I discovered my favourite place in the hotel—Le Grand Hall: The legendary lobby of the hotel with its stunning views, extravagant décor and fantastic architecture is known affectionately as the “living room of St. Moritz”. In fact, it was sitting here that the famous British film director Alfred Hitchcock first thought of creating a film script about birds, when he saw a large flock of mountain birds soaring high over the hotel into the blue Engadin sky. The result, the 1963 horror classic The Birds. Once can even stay at the hotel’s Hitchcock Suite made in honour of the man that is full of charm and simply oozes history.

Nature’s Bounty
Eager to explore more of this region, on my last day in St. Moritz, I hit the mountains with a vengeance, ready to take on the two-hour long Muottas Muragl to Alp Languard hike. A short, 15 minutes’ drive from the hotel and I was deposited at the Punt Muragl funicular station. The bright red funicular took no more than seven minutes to take me up to Muottas Muragl which was where my hike’s path began. Here is where one can find the first plus-energy hotel in the Alps, the Romantik Hotel Muottas Muragl and a special little path called Senda d’Inspiraziun.
My path was different, however. Not particularly challenging, but a tad winded by the sudden change in altitude, my hike started off with me trying my best to acclimatize, amidst a bit of huffing and puffing. Soon the black ice (it was spring, after all) covered path seemed an easy stroll and off I went, taking in the fresh Alpine air my city-weary lungs so desperately sought out.
And just when I was beginning to enjoy every second of the hike, a signboard let me know that my final destination—the alp hut Languard was just behind the bend. A hearty lunch of local specialties like bündner soup, salsiz (meat), home-made pizzoccheri and lunganighetta, ending with the region’s specialty, the Engadin nutcake made me so sluggish that I let go of the idea of the 30-minte hike downhill. I chose instead to take the 5-minute chairlift ride to the tiny town of Pontresina below where I checked into the legendary chocolate shot of Gianottis for a bit of theobromine-induced gratification as a farewell gesture to this glam region.
“I could used to this life!” my mind kept repeating on a loop…that is, until reality took over!

FACT FILE
Getting There
There are daily direct flights from India to Zurich, Switzerland on world-class airlines such as Swiss International Airlines. From Zurich, the picturesque Glacier Express train is the best way to get to St. Moritz in style and luxury in under three hours. Visit www.swiss.com and www.glacierexpress.ch for more information.

When to Visit
A great all-year-round destination, St. Moritz is equally wonderful in the spring and summer months from May to September—when one can enjoy hiking in the surrounding hills and mountains—as it is in winter from December to March when the ski season transforms the town into a snow-covered winter wonderland. Visit www.swissinfo.ch for more information.

Accommodation
Very few hotels can boast of the stunning vistas, unrivalled beauty, attentive service and overall decadence that a grand hotel like The Badrutt’s Palace Hotel can offer. Thus, making this legendary hotel your ultimate choice of residence when in St. Moritz. Visit www.badruttspalace.com for more information.

(An edited version of this article first appeared in the 26th August 2018 issue of The Free Press Journal newspaper's Weekend section on page 3 http://www.freepressjournal.in/travel/st-moritz-switzerlands-ultimate-holiday-destination-of-the-jet-set/1342822)

Notes from Kodaikanal

By Raul Dias

The gravitas of each of the 21, notorious hairpin bends one encounters en route to Kodaikanal via Palani below, was beginning to take its toll on me as I battled the ensuing waves of nausea. A raging earache threatened to exacerbate my misery, whenever my trusted SUV’s wheels made contact with the pothole-ridden asphalt of the hilly road. To top it all, I had just burst a blood vessel in my right eye thanks to a spontaneous subconjunctival haemorrhage that left me looking like the antagonist of an 80s Ramsay Brothers’ horror flick!
Little did I know then that I was following the same path—both literally and figuratively speaking—taken by a bunch of American missionaries way back in the mid-1800s. It was then that the bucolic hill station of Kodaikanal provided them with the much-needed succour as they convalesced from the dreaded malaria contracted in the plains below. But more on that little vignette later. First a bit of a revelation…

Cleanliness and Godliness
Having had my soul scarred for life by images of the disastrous effects mass tourism ‘bestows’ upon other Indian hill stations of its ilk, I was prepared for a place strewn with used chip packets, juice boxes and other ugly tourist detritus. But not Kodaikanal, apparently. Here, it was evident that the neatly lined garbage bins and ‘Keep Clean’ signage were clearly doing their job. Clean, freshly swept roads and sidewalks greeted me as I passed shop after shop on Kodaikanal’s famous Seven Roads junction selling rock candy, homemade chocolate and other sundries that are crucial elements to the tuck boxes of the students who board at the many schools Kodaikanal is famous for.
I was later to learn of the vital role both students and local youth play in keeping Kodaikanal as clean as it is. Both the Kodaikanal Lake Protection Council and the Vattakkanal Organization for Youth, Community and Environment (VOYCE) is active in preserving Kodaikanal’s environment where plastic bags are banned, and vendors encouraged to use recycled paper bags. All these measures were adopted after a study conducted by the Department of Atomic Energy confirmed that Kodaikanal Lake had been contaminated by mercury emissions.
Another surprise for me was the high concentration of churches that can be found here. Christianity brought over by the aforementioned American missionaries seems to be thriving here, as I recognised the Tamil versions of popular hymns sung in the La Salette Church next to where I was staying. The daily evening novenas, as a lead up to the annual 15th August feast of the Assumption of Mary, were followed by orderly processions taken out by the devotees with decibel levels well in check.

American ‘Invasion’
In another interesting departure from the idea of the ubiquitous colonial British-established Indian hill stations that served as cooling off places in summer, Kodaikanal was established in 1845 by a posse of Americans who sent up their women and children from Madurai below to both, seek refuge from the bloodthirsty mosquitos of the plains, and to recuperate from the rampant Malarial epidemics.
And the American influence is amply evident in Kodaikanal to this very day, specially in the unique architecture one sees there. Many of the original cottages and bungalows with names like Sunny Side and Shelton and modelled on those found in America’s colonial north-eastern New England region have today been repurposed keeping the original aesthetics as they were. In fact, the hotel that I stayed at is one such building that was one of the earliest structures constructed in Kodaikanal. Today known as The Tamara Kodai, the large barn-like building itself was originally called Baynes Bungalow owned by Mr. Baynes, a District Judge. When it was later sold to Father Louis Cyr in 1860, it was renovated to serve as a chapel thanks to its high-pitched roof and long wraparound balcony with its rooms used as a rest house for priests from Nagapattinam.  
Speaking of chapels, the former St Peter’s church that once stood in the abandoned old American cemetery along the town’s fecund Lower Shola Road had a tin roof salvaged from the many biscuit tins the convalescing children would go through. Well, they do say that necessity is the mother of invention, don’t they?     

(An edited version of this article first appeared in the 26th August 2018 issue of The Hindu newspaper's Sunday Magazine section on page 8  https://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/travel/notes-from-kodaikanal/article24770764.ece)

  

There’s No Place Like Home!

This Independence Day week, we urge you to forget about planning that next international getaway and look inwards. Confused? Then Read on. Raul Dias brings to you a lineup of a quartet of India’s lesser known destinations that each offer a unique experience you won’t find anywhere else. 

By Raul Dias  

1. Shani Shingnapur, Maharashtra—Where Honesty is Alive and Kicking
Imagine an idyllic little place somewhere in rural Maharashtra where the houses are totally devoid of any doors whatsoever. In their place you only find door frames. A village that has never seen crime and where not a single incident of theft has ever been officially reported. Now, before you begin to disregard this as pure fiction, let us assure that such a place truly exists. Yes, the village of Shani Shingnapur that’s situated in the state’s Ahmednagar district is not just known for its popular temple of Shani, the Hindu god associated with the planet Saturn, but also for the above-mentioned lack of doors. Apparently, the villagers believe that due to the fear of Lord Shani, none of the structures, be it dwelling houses, huts, shops, even the local post office, situated within a one-kilometer radius of his temple have either doors or locks. And that anyone attempting to steal will be prevented from doing so by the god who will send his wrath down upon any such person who will be immediately struck down. So popular is this temple that it is visited daily—and specially on Saturdays—by thousands of devotees praying for Lord Shani’s favour.
Getting There: Shani Shingnapur is a short 35km away by road from Ahmednagar city.

2. Mawlynnong, Meghalaya—Asia’s Cleanest Village with a Living Wonder
Never mind the rather tongue-twister of a name and get ready for this place to totally blow your mind away! Nestled in the verdant East Khasi Hills district of Meghalaya, overlooking Bangladesh is the bucolic village of Mawlynnong that truly sets the bar very high with its cleanliness initiatives and not to mention natural beauty. Not only are the streets and laneways of the village spotless and litter-free with waste collected in bins made of bamboo that are then directed to a pit to be later used as manure, but unpleasant habits like smoking and the use of polythene is totally banned. A community initiative mandates that all residents should participate in cleaning up the village. And this superb initiative has not gone unnoticed. The travel magazine Discover India declared the village as the cleanest in Asia in 2003, and the cleanest in India in 2005. But it’s not all about cleanliness that will draw you to Mawlynnong. Don’t miss out checking out attractions like the 1,100-year-old living bridge made from tree roots that show us the far-sighted vision of the village’s past generations. Other must-sees here are ‘balancing rock’ and another rock formation called ‘shark’s jaw’. Do all this, and much more, while taking in the pollution-free air and mingling with the ever-smiling villagers who are only too proud and happy to show you their village.
Getting There: Mawlynnong is a 90km drive south of the state capital Shillong.

3. Kannauj, Uttar Pradesh—Where Fragrance is Everywhere
Though it is one of the oldest cities in Uttar Pradesh (UP), very little is known about Kannauj by most. Travellers often give it a miss in favour of the ‘Golden Triangle’ of the famed trio of Lucknow, Varanasi and the hallowed Agra! But the next time you find yourself in UP, treat your olfactory senses to a virtual celebration and visit Kannauj—India’s perfume capital. A small town on the banks of the river Ganga that has been guarding the secret of traditional Indian perfumes for centuries, Kannauj is the place where the lost art of ittar making is very much practiced almost everywhere. Situated on the once historical scent trade route that brought perfumes from India to the Middle East, Kannauj’s perfumeries were famed for their magnificent ittars, specially the petrichor fragrant of the geeli mitti or wet earth, giving this town the moniker of ‘Grasse of the East’. The perfumers of Kannauj also made the scented oils Mughal Emperors were so obsessed with. But thankfully you can still find an entire range of perfumers here ready to customise for you your very own little vial of fragrance.
Getting There: Kannauj is 125km away by road from UP’s capital Lucknow via Agra.

4. Kannur, Kerala—Where Colonial Grandeur Meets Classical Dance
Known as ‘The Crown of Kerala’ thanks to it lying slap bang in the middle of the Western Ghats in the east, Kozhikode and Wayanad districts in the south, Lakshadeep Sea in the west and Kasargod in the north, Kannur is one of those hidden gems simply waiting to be discovered. Also called Cannanore by its Portuguese colonists, this is an idyllic coastal city, boasting some of the best beaches in Kerala. It is also famous for having the imposing St. Angelo Fort that was built in 1505 by Dom Francisco de Almeida, the first Portuguese Viceroy of India. Kannur was also home to Kerala’s only Muslim Royalty called the Arakkals. Interestingly, Kannur is popularly known as ‘The City of Looms and Lores’. This is because of two important aspects of Kannur. One, the city has a thriving loom industry functioning in the district. Two, fans of Indian dances, here’s a tip for you: Make sure to visit Kannur anytime from months of November and April as you can see the Theyyam ritual dance performances that this place is famous for in its many temples.
Getting There: Kannur is well-connected to the rest of India via rail with the Kannur Train Station being a popular stop.

(An edited version of this article first appeared in the 12th August 2018 issue of The Free Press Journal newspaper's Weekend section on page 3 http://www.freepressjournal.in/travel/kannur-to-mawlynnong-indias-lesser-known-unique-destinations/1333523)

The ‘Other’ Thailand!

From communing with the indigenous hill tribes to learning the nuances of Northern Thai cuisine and a whole lot more in-between, the picturesque city of Chiang Mai nestled in the verdant hills of Lanna, Northern Thailand has a lot to offer and will change your perception of Thailand forever, says Raul Dias

By Raul Dias

        

Let me start with a very honest confession. I’m much more of a city person than one of those travellers who head to the hills to “find” themselves and come back with halcyon tales of dew-covered leaves and other similar idyllic montages. Give me the cacophony of an urbs primus like Bangkok—blaring traffic din, et al—any day, vis-à-vis nature’s serene bounty and I’ll be your best friend.

In Love With Lanna
But all that changed a few weeks ago when I signed up for a trip curated by the newly launched Airbnb Experiences, Chiang Mai to discover a part of Northern Thailand and all it had to offer. And boy, was I convinced about the unhurried way of life or what just after a few days there! From learning about tribal life to trying my hand at weaving to even cooking my own curry, this was one trip that literally ripped me from the cocoon of my city-cushioned comfort zone and plonked me slap bang in the lap of Mother Nature.
With its raw, untapped, natural beauty, Lanna, the Northern region of Thailand is the perfect foil to the brassy commercialism one usually encounters in the more ‘touristy’ South. And the sleepy, mist-shrouded city of Chiang Mai is the perfect introduction to this kind of unhurried travel. Try as hard as you may, but it is virtually impossible to believe that this cozy, artsy town is the second largest in Thailand after the capital, Bangkok.
Culturally rich and mind-numbingly beautiful, Chiang Mai and its surrounding hills are the places to head to for some much-needed down time. Learn the finer nuances of Thai cookery, meet the tribal people, or perhaps marvel at the handicrafts made here, you will find a lot to tempt you with. Enough to give this region a shot on your next Thailand trip? You bet!

Same, Same…Yet Different!
And speaking of food, with a more herbaceous take on the coconut milk-redolent Southern and Central Thai food, the Lanna cuisine is a unique and flavourful one. From typical street fare like the spicy and lemon-y Chiang Mai sausage and yum hed—a spicy mushroom salad—the markets of this town abound with unusual flavours. Other dishes to try here are the light khew wan kai chicken curry and the Northern Thailand version of the ubiquitous somtamthai papaya and prawn salad, all served with sticky black rice that is a specialty of the region.
One of my very first Airbnb Experiences was that of learning to whip up local dishes at Air’s Thai Cooking Class. Here, Chef Chanrat Karatna—or Air as he prefers to be called—helped me discover the secrets of authentic Northern Thai cuisine with a four-hour cooking class in his beautiful open-air kitchen that’s surrounded by a herb garden. Designed in such a way that you get to select the dishes you wish to cook (and yes, eat later!), I chose the aforementioned spicy khew wan kai that Air first demonstrated, post which I got to work. And the result? A very competent curry, I may as well add, bursting with the taste of sweet basil and kaffir lime leaves!

Indigenous Wonders
For a glimpse of the elusive Hmong, Shan and Karen hill tribe people of this region, the weekend handicrafts market in the Chiang Mai town centre is the perfect place. Descending down to the valley from their hilly villages to sell their wares, these colourfully kitted out tribals are as distinct as they are fascinating to look at. With the Mon women sporting large metal-beaded headdresses and the Karen women the high coiled neck pieces, they will break all your preconceived notions (as they did mine) of the typical ‘Thai look’ as it were.
But, as I wanted a more in-depth experiences with the tribes, the mononymous ‘Pat’, my guide du jour picked me up from my accommodation for a long drive into the hills for another Airbnb Experience that I had been looking forward to. The heavily-tattooed, chain-smoking, rockstar-like Pat is a member of the Shan tribe and has lived and worked with ethnic minorities in Northern Thailand all his life. His passion, he told me, is the sustainable development of hill tribes, that includes channeling tourism in a way that benefits them, not harming them.
And so, an hour or so outside Chiang Mai, we got off-road to visit a remote, authentic Karen village where villagers still live in traditional stilt bamboo houses. Once there we not only enjoyed a very traditional lunch of a light herb-redolent chicken curry with stir friend pumpkin leaves—all washed down with home distilled rice whisky—but we also got a wonderful insight into the Karen culture and their fascinating way of life. The enthusiastic villagers were only too happy to share with us everything from their rather complicated fabric weaving techniques and rattan basket making to planting the all-important rice crop and herb foraging.
With a wealth of new-found knowledge of—and not to mention respect for—the rural way of life under my belt, I headed back to the hustle and bustle of the cityscape, not once complaining about the rather bumpy ride en route.
Well, I did say I was a changed person, didn’t I?    

FACT FILE
Getting There
There are daily connecting flights from India to Chiang Mai on airlines like Thai Airways and Bangkok Airways via Bangkok. Travel within the Northern Thailand Lanna region is easy with many buses, mini vans and car hire companies offering their services.

When to Visit
The months from October to February are the best time to travel to Northern Thailand, when the region experiences a pleasant to chilly climate with plenty of cultural and artistic events taking place in Chiang Mai.

Accommodation
Though Chiang Mai has an excellent selection of hotels to choose from to suit all budgets and tastes, why not get more up close and personal with the city and live like a local? Airbnb has an amazing portfolio of vacation homes that you can rent out. Visit www.airbnb.co.in for more information.

(An edited version of this article first appeared in the 5th August 2018 issue of The Free Press Journal newspaper's Weekend section on page 3 http://www.freepressjournal.in/travel/the-other-thailand-visit-to-chiang-mai-could-change-your-perception-of-the-country/1328495)

A-N-A-T-O-M-I-Z-E: Zen ‘Pebble’ Dessert

By Raul Dias

Picture this. You’ve just gobbled up the last savoury morsel that was part of a mammoth, multi-course Cantonese-Sichuan meal, which had the pastry chef constantly telling you to not eat so much and to save space for dessert. Albeit reluctant, you surrender your chopsticks and do just as she says. Minutes later, a server places onto your table a plate laden with what you believe to be a couple of smooth, fist-sized, grey pebbles—the kind that you’d find at the bottom of a Zen garden. And they are just that. Well, at least some of them are. The others? Edible doppelgangers of their plate-fellows that look and feel just like the real deal.
Yes, cottoning onto the latest food trend of ‘trompe-l’œil’ (French for “deceive the eye”) desserts, Zen is a dish like no other, where both real and faux pebbles are placed together, to playfully confuse the diner. It’s only when you run your knife through a fake pebble—that is, after making several failed attempts with a few real ones—do you see its creamy, non-petrified interior!
Conceived by dessert chef Solanki Roy and available at Mumbai’s Typhoon Shelter restaurant, this is one wacky creation. Inspired by her tenure at the über-experimental Gaggan Bangkok where she worked earlier, Chef Roy drew in traditional flavours and a contemporary approach, with a surprise twist to present this dessert.
So, here we find a creamy caramel-vanilla mousse that is coated in a melted white chocolate exterior, holding within its core a hazelnut crunch for that all-important contrasting texture. Much like one would do when making marble paper, the white chocolate-covered ‘pebble’ is then quickly dipped in a colour-swirled bath for that desired marbled effect to get imprinted onto it.

(This column first appeared in the 5th August 2018 issue of The Hindu newspaper's Sunday Magazine section on page 8 https://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/food/zen-pebble-dessert/article24590483.ece)