Great Escapes weekly Saturday travel page for The Free Press Journal newspaper curated, edited and produced by Raul Dias
Saturday, August 31, 2019
Great Escapes--31st August 2019
Great Escapes weekly Saturday travel page for The Free Press Journal newspaper curated, edited and produced by Raul Dias
Sunday, August 25, 2019
When ‘Bad Word Curry’ Was Good!
One of India’s unique hybrid cuisines, Anglo-Indian
food is the fascinating sum of its mish-mash of flavours and textures—with a
few unusually named savoury dishes thrown in for dramatic effect.
(An edited version of this article first appeared in the 25th August 2019 issue of The Hindu newspaper's Sunday Magazine section on pages 26-27 https://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/food/spinsters-delight-pish-pash-and-kedgeree-a-few-favourite-things-from-my-anglo-indian-family-kitchen/article29231232.ece)
By Raul Dias
I kid you not, but “Gladys Myrtle Harbour—last of the
great Anglos”, was how my late maternal grandmother introduced herself to those
she’d meet for the first time. Always insisting on including her maiden
surname, her self-appointed title as a ‘propah’, card-carrying member of a
dying breed and shunning her official name of “Mrs. Lobo” all in one fell
swoop. None of us minded it, least of all my ever-giggling Goan grandfather who
indulged his proudly Anglo-Indian wife to the hilt.
Nan—as we called her—was full of odd little quirks and peculiarities that would embarrass most. But not us eight grandkids who were always amused by her antics. Three of her most abiding memories that have stayed with me almost two decades since her passing are her signature Chanel No. 5 fragrance, her mother-of-pearl tipped cigarette holder and her predilection for profanity. The last, amply reflected in one of my favourite Anglo-Indian dishes that she was spectacularly good at conjuring up every Saturday for lunch at her home in Jaipur.
Nan—as we called her—was full of odd little quirks and peculiarities that would embarrass most. But not us eight grandkids who were always amused by her antics. Three of her most abiding memories that have stayed with me almost two decades since her passing are her signature Chanel No. 5 fragrance, her mother-of-pearl tipped cigarette holder and her predilection for profanity. The last, amply reflected in one of my favourite Anglo-Indian dishes that she was spectacularly good at conjuring up every Saturday for lunch at her home in Jaipur.
Having
a ball
Yes, none of that wishy-washy “bad word curry” or worse “meat kofta curry” business for the Anglo-Indian staple of beef ball curry that would make most others blush before referring to it by its original name. Nan, in fact, had an even more ribald moniker for said curry. She’d occasionally call it “spinster’s delight curry”. I rest my case!
Replete with chunks of potato—that I’d shamelessly bogart—nan’s version of ball curry always had coconut milk in it, perhaps as a tribute to her Goan husband. And it was never had sans its trusted cohorts of the turmeric-enhanced yellow rice and devil chutney. The latter a scary looking, but innocuous tasting condiment made from mild red chillies, tomatoes, sugar and vinegar.
Speaking of deceptive-looking dishes, another Anglo dish that I daresay my mum makes better than Nan ever did is the oddly named chicken country captain. The story behind this thick, angry red hued dish’s genesis is a rather interesting one. Apparently, in the early days of the East India Company, British trade ships sailing the waters in India were referred to as ‘country ships’ and thus their captains—‘country captains’. The hybrid dish of chicken country captain that had elements borrowed from the popular Italian preparation of chicken cacciatore and jazzed up with spices like chillies and coriander was a popular dish at said captains’ tables and hence its name.
Yes, none of that wishy-washy “bad word curry” or worse “meat kofta curry” business for the Anglo-Indian staple of beef ball curry that would make most others blush before referring to it by its original name. Nan, in fact, had an even more ribald moniker for said curry. She’d occasionally call it “spinster’s delight curry”. I rest my case!
Replete with chunks of potato—that I’d shamelessly bogart—nan’s version of ball curry always had coconut milk in it, perhaps as a tribute to her Goan husband. And it was never had sans its trusted cohorts of the turmeric-enhanced yellow rice and devil chutney. The latter a scary looking, but innocuous tasting condiment made from mild red chillies, tomatoes, sugar and vinegar.
Speaking of deceptive-looking dishes, another Anglo dish that I daresay my mum makes better than Nan ever did is the oddly named chicken country captain. The story behind this thick, angry red hued dish’s genesis is a rather interesting one. Apparently, in the early days of the East India Company, British trade ships sailing the waters in India were referred to as ‘country ships’ and thus their captains—‘country captains’. The hybrid dish of chicken country captain that had elements borrowed from the popular Italian preparation of chicken cacciatore and jazzed up with spices like chillies and coriander was a popular dish at said captains’ tables and hence its name.
Comfort
food
Now, unlike the Goan side of my family where falling ill meant being force-fed boring ‘convalesce specials’ like the watery pez (rice gruel) and tizann, a glue-like warm porridge made with nachni (finger millet), the Anglos seemed to celebrate sickness to the hilt. Whenever one of us was a bit under the weather, Nan would get her trusted cook Kesari to conjure up wonderful concoctions like pish-pash and kedgeree. So much so that we’d almost hope to get sick to enjoy the two!
Though both are relatively similar in taste and texture, and both one-pot wonders, the former was always my clear favourite. Essentially a dish made with soft rice and some form of protein (mostly chicken) the term pish-pash was first recorded by English writer Augustus Prinsep in the mid-19th century where he called it “a slop of rice-soup with small pieces of meat in it, much used in the Anglo-Indian nursery.” Its name, in fact, is borrowed from the Persian term to break down something or pashidan.
On the contrary, the etymology of kedgeree is pretty lucid and prima facie obvious. The Anglo-Indian take on India’s greatest comfort food of khichdi is one that is made up of cooked, flaked fish (either haddock, tuna or salmon), boiled rice, parsley, hard-boiled eggs, curry powder, butter or cream, and occasionally sultanas.
Now, unlike the Goan side of my family where falling ill meant being force-fed boring ‘convalesce specials’ like the watery pez (rice gruel) and tizann, a glue-like warm porridge made with nachni (finger millet), the Anglos seemed to celebrate sickness to the hilt. Whenever one of us was a bit under the weather, Nan would get her trusted cook Kesari to conjure up wonderful concoctions like pish-pash and kedgeree. So much so that we’d almost hope to get sick to enjoy the two!
Though both are relatively similar in taste and texture, and both one-pot wonders, the former was always my clear favourite. Essentially a dish made with soft rice and some form of protein (mostly chicken) the term pish-pash was first recorded by English writer Augustus Prinsep in the mid-19th century where he called it “a slop of rice-soup with small pieces of meat in it, much used in the Anglo-Indian nursery.” Its name, in fact, is borrowed from the Persian term to break down something or pashidan.
On the contrary, the etymology of kedgeree is pretty lucid and prima facie obvious. The Anglo-Indian take on India’s greatest comfort food of khichdi is one that is made up of cooked, flaked fish (either haddock, tuna or salmon), boiled rice, parsley, hard-boiled eggs, curry powder, butter or cream, and occasionally sultanas.
East
meets South
Just like Saturday’s lunch had its ball curry-yellow rice, Sunday’s lunch at Nan’s was devoted to her favourite duo of mutton jalfrezi-pepper water. Now, the super-spicy jalfrezi is one scrumptious curry that gets the Anglos all divided up in two factions as to its origins. While my mum and her sisters claim that it was named in honour of an old British Army officer named Colonel Frazer, my grandaunt Audrey Rose has another theory. According to her, the name of the dish is derived from the colloquial Bengali word jhal porhezi, where jhal (not to be confused with jhol or water!) means hot, while porhezi comes from the Persian word, parhezi means suitable for a diet.
And if you ask me, its ‘plate-fellow’ of pepper water is nothing but an Anglo riff on the much-loved, tamarind pulp-based rasam or saaru of south India. Right down to the tempering of mustard seeds and curry leaves that are added at the end for that dramatic, sizzling finish.
Just like Saturday’s lunch had its ball curry-yellow rice, Sunday’s lunch at Nan’s was devoted to her favourite duo of mutton jalfrezi-pepper water. Now, the super-spicy jalfrezi is one scrumptious curry that gets the Anglos all divided up in two factions as to its origins. While my mum and her sisters claim that it was named in honour of an old British Army officer named Colonel Frazer, my grandaunt Audrey Rose has another theory. According to her, the name of the dish is derived from the colloquial Bengali word jhal porhezi, where jhal (not to be confused with jhol or water!) means hot, while porhezi comes from the Persian word, parhezi means suitable for a diet.
And if you ask me, its ‘plate-fellow’ of pepper water is nothing but an Anglo riff on the much-loved, tamarind pulp-based rasam or saaru of south India. Right down to the tempering of mustard seeds and curry leaves that are added at the end for that dramatic, sizzling finish.
SUNDAY RECIPE
Chicken Country Captain
(Recipe courtesy, Ann Dias)
Chicken Country Captain
(Recipe courtesy, Ann Dias)
INGREDIENTS:
Chicken pieces (drumsticks and thighs) 500 gms
Vegetable oil 5 tbsp
Onions (sliced) 4
Water 1 cup
Salt ½ tsp
Coriander powder 1 tbsp
Cumin powder 1 tsp
Turmeric powder ½ tsp
Dried Kashmiri chillies 6
Fresh green chillies (slit lengthwise) 3
Fresh coriander leaves (chopped) ½ cup
Ginger (finely chopped) 2-inch piece
White vinegar 2 tbsp
Sugar 1 tbsp
Potatoes (cubed and deep fried) 5
Chicken pieces (drumsticks and thighs) 500 gms
Vegetable oil 5 tbsp
Onions (sliced) 4
Water 1 cup
Salt ½ tsp
Coriander powder 1 tbsp
Cumin powder 1 tsp
Turmeric powder ½ tsp
Dried Kashmiri chillies 6
Fresh green chillies (slit lengthwise) 3
Fresh coriander leaves (chopped) ½ cup
Ginger (finely chopped) 2-inch piece
White vinegar 2 tbsp
Sugar 1 tbsp
Potatoes (cubed and deep fried) 5
METHOD:
1. Heat oil in a medium sized pan and sauté sliced onions till golden brown.
2. Add the chicken pieces and fry for 10 minutes. Add the water and salt and allow to cook till tender. Remove chicken and set aside.
3. In a spice blender, make a smooth paste of the coriander, cumin and turmeric powders along with the Kashmiri chillies and a splash of water.
4. To the residual liquid of the chicken and onions in the pan, add the spice paste, green chillies, fresh coriander leaves, ginger, vinegar and sugar. Simmer till the gravy is thick.
4. Add the chicken pieces and fried potato cubes and cook for another 5-7 minutes.
5. Serve hot with either herbed rice or garlic bread.
1. Heat oil in a medium sized pan and sauté sliced onions till golden brown.
2. Add the chicken pieces and fry for 10 minutes. Add the water and salt and allow to cook till tender. Remove chicken and set aside.
3. In a spice blender, make a smooth paste of the coriander, cumin and turmeric powders along with the Kashmiri chillies and a splash of water.
4. To the residual liquid of the chicken and onions in the pan, add the spice paste, green chillies, fresh coriander leaves, ginger, vinegar and sugar. Simmer till the gravy is thick.
4. Add the chicken pieces and fried potato cubes and cook for another 5-7 minutes.
5. Serve hot with either herbed rice or garlic bread.
(An edited version of this article first appeared in the 25th August 2019 issue of The Hindu newspaper's Sunday Magazine section on pages 26-27 https://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/food/spinsters-delight-pish-pash-and-kedgeree-a-few-favourite-things-from-my-anglo-indian-family-kitchen/article29231232.ece)
Saturday, August 24, 2019
Great Escapes--24th August 2019
Great Escapes weekly Saturday travel page for The Free Press Journal newspaper curated, edited and produced by Raul Dias
Saturday, August 17, 2019
Urban Oasis
Set in the heart of downtown Bangkok, the Mövenpick BDMS Wellness Resort is a fecund, tropical paradise with a lot on offer. Raul Dias checks in for some much-needed R&R!
By Raul Dias
A great fan of both my home city of Mumbai and that of my ‘adopted’ second home aka. Bangkok, I always find myself drawing several parallels between the two. Yes, both are equally chaotic, traffic-saturated and supremely exhausting! But both also have an indomitable spirit that cannot be defined or quantified. A spirit that keeps drawing me back to Bangkok’s urban charms time and again…
It is also a well-known fact that I will never refuse an opportunity to head to the Thai capital, even if it means a short, three-day trip. So, when I was very kindly invited to join in on GoAir’s inaugural daily, direct flight from Mumbai to Bangkok (check out our Travel Bytes section below for more details) on a trip they had jointly curated with AccorHotels to experience both the new flight as well as one Accor’s newest properties, the Mövenpick BDMS Wellness Resort Bangkok, I jumped at the opportunity.
Plush Living
A unique urban health retreat surrounded by 1.2 acres of lush greenery, the Mövenpick BDMS Wellness Resort Bangkok is one of those ultra-rare properties in that it is a proper, full-fledged resort set in the buzzing center of Bangkok. A classically elegant retreat, the property stands below tree height, shaded by the canopy of the adjacent Nai Lert Park, famed as Bangkok’s only remaining private city center park. Within the resort a refined, minimalistic décor meets every modern convenience to take your stress away, reflecting Mövenpick’s renowned commitment to genuine comforts delivered exceptionally well.
Another aspect of its setting that literally took my breath away was the range of accommodation options the resort has on offer. While the Deluxe Rooms extend 42 sqm of personalised comfort, the Executive Suite where I was staying is a spacious 74 sqm with separate living rooms and bedrooms. However, irrespective of room category, each offers either city views across the capital, or serene garden views from their broad balconies. And yes, in-keeping with the Mövenpick’s wonderful world-wide policy of a free mini bar for the first day of one’s stay, here too one can enjoy a range of non-alcoholic beverages on the house. I sure did!
And while the signature Wellness Suites are unique to the resort, encompassing 74 sqm of therapeutic comfort, the Presidential Suite and Royal Suite are the pinnacles of Mövenpick’s renowned standards of comfort and style, stretching across a mammoth 164 sqm with private entrances.
Where Serenity meets Bliss…
Speaking of wellness, the resort shares its property with the BDMS Wellness Clinic which is the latest of the Bangkok Dusit Medical Services group’s centres of medical excellence. It applies world leading therapies and technologies to treat an illness’ root cause in seven specialised clinics with individually trained nurses and administrators.
Taking full advantage of the wonderful Fitness Centre, I made sure to factor in at least an hour every day to working out on the David Health Solution System machines, designed to aid spine and orthopaedic recovery and thus perfect for my chronic lower back pain. The outdoor pool surrounded by thick vegetation that drown out all ambient noises from outside makes it almost impossible to believe that one is truly in the heart of chaotic Bangkok.
Sips and Bites
At the resort, international dining tastes are fully catered at a range of venues and all in-keeping with the resort’s wellness leitmotif. So, one can dine at the Tamarind all-day dining restaurant offering healthy and organic produce, generous breakfast buffets and themed buffet dinners. The Rim Klong Café serves famed Mövenpick coffees and ice creams, international breads and pastries, including gluten-free options, healthy mocktails, slow-juice selections, tea-infusions and nutritious boosters. It is a great place to simply unwind.
The Sala pool bar is perfect for refreshments of local and imported beers, fresh smoothies and original cocktails under cooling tree shade. For live music, soothing dayime tunes or an evening aperitif, head to the Cinnamon Lobby Bar. Serving juices and coffees and with a complimentary chocolate hour for guests, it’s a daytime family (and my personal!) favourite.
Things to do around the resort
Mövenpick BDMS Wellness Resort Bangkok’s city center location places guests at the heart of shopping and entertainment with a host of things to see and do:
* The Ratchaprasong retail district is packed with designer boutiques and shopping centres.
* The nearby Erawan Shrine is a serene place of pilgrimage for many Asian travellers just five minutes away.
* The Bangkok Art and Culture Centre, opposite the MBK Mall, offers quiet galleries of ancient and contemporary art as a refreshing respite from the bustling markets.
* The city’s famed nightlife welcomes visitors just ten minutes from the hotel in Sukhumvit Soi 11 and Soi 8.
Mövenpick BDMS Wellness Resort Bangkok
2 Wireless Road, Lumpini, Pathumwan,
Bangkok 10330, Thailand.
Telephone: +66 (2) 666 3333 | Fax: +66 (2) 666 3334
E-mail: resort.bdms.sales@movenpick.com
www. movenpick.com
(An edited version of this article first appeared in the 17th August 2019 issue of The Free Press Journal newspaper's Saturday Great Escapes section on page 21 https://www.freepressjournal.in/travel/this-bangkok-resort-is-a-tropical-paradise)
By Raul Dias
A great fan of both my home city of Mumbai and that of my ‘adopted’ second home aka. Bangkok, I always find myself drawing several parallels between the two. Yes, both are equally chaotic, traffic-saturated and supremely exhausting! But both also have an indomitable spirit that cannot be defined or quantified. A spirit that keeps drawing me back to Bangkok’s urban charms time and again…
It is also a well-known fact that I will never refuse an opportunity to head to the Thai capital, even if it means a short, three-day trip. So, when I was very kindly invited to join in on GoAir’s inaugural daily, direct flight from Mumbai to Bangkok (check out our Travel Bytes section below for more details) on a trip they had jointly curated with AccorHotels to experience both the new flight as well as one Accor’s newest properties, the Mövenpick BDMS Wellness Resort Bangkok, I jumped at the opportunity.
Plush Living
A unique urban health retreat surrounded by 1.2 acres of lush greenery, the Mövenpick BDMS Wellness Resort Bangkok is one of those ultra-rare properties in that it is a proper, full-fledged resort set in the buzzing center of Bangkok. A classically elegant retreat, the property stands below tree height, shaded by the canopy of the adjacent Nai Lert Park, famed as Bangkok’s only remaining private city center park. Within the resort a refined, minimalistic décor meets every modern convenience to take your stress away, reflecting Mövenpick’s renowned commitment to genuine comforts delivered exceptionally well.
Another aspect of its setting that literally took my breath away was the range of accommodation options the resort has on offer. While the Deluxe Rooms extend 42 sqm of personalised comfort, the Executive Suite where I was staying is a spacious 74 sqm with separate living rooms and bedrooms. However, irrespective of room category, each offers either city views across the capital, or serene garden views from their broad balconies. And yes, in-keeping with the Mövenpick’s wonderful world-wide policy of a free mini bar for the first day of one’s stay, here too one can enjoy a range of non-alcoholic beverages on the house. I sure did!
And while the signature Wellness Suites are unique to the resort, encompassing 74 sqm of therapeutic comfort, the Presidential Suite and Royal Suite are the pinnacles of Mövenpick’s renowned standards of comfort and style, stretching across a mammoth 164 sqm with private entrances.
Where Serenity meets Bliss…
Speaking of wellness, the resort shares its property with the BDMS Wellness Clinic which is the latest of the Bangkok Dusit Medical Services group’s centres of medical excellence. It applies world leading therapies and technologies to treat an illness’ root cause in seven specialised clinics with individually trained nurses and administrators.
Taking full advantage of the wonderful Fitness Centre, I made sure to factor in at least an hour every day to working out on the David Health Solution System machines, designed to aid spine and orthopaedic recovery and thus perfect for my chronic lower back pain. The outdoor pool surrounded by thick vegetation that drown out all ambient noises from outside makes it almost impossible to believe that one is truly in the heart of chaotic Bangkok.
Sips and Bites
At the resort, international dining tastes are fully catered at a range of venues and all in-keeping with the resort’s wellness leitmotif. So, one can dine at the Tamarind all-day dining restaurant offering healthy and organic produce, generous breakfast buffets and themed buffet dinners. The Rim Klong Café serves famed Mövenpick coffees and ice creams, international breads and pastries, including gluten-free options, healthy mocktails, slow-juice selections, tea-infusions and nutritious boosters. It is a great place to simply unwind.
The Sala pool bar is perfect for refreshments of local and imported beers, fresh smoothies and original cocktails under cooling tree shade. For live music, soothing dayime tunes or an evening aperitif, head to the Cinnamon Lobby Bar. Serving juices and coffees and with a complimentary chocolate hour for guests, it’s a daytime family (and my personal!) favourite.
Things to do around the resort
Mövenpick BDMS Wellness Resort Bangkok’s city center location places guests at the heart of shopping and entertainment with a host of things to see and do:
* The Ratchaprasong retail district is packed with designer boutiques and shopping centres.
* The nearby Erawan Shrine is a serene place of pilgrimage for many Asian travellers just five minutes away.
* The Bangkok Art and Culture Centre, opposite the MBK Mall, offers quiet galleries of ancient and contemporary art as a refreshing respite from the bustling markets.
* The city’s famed nightlife welcomes visitors just ten minutes from the hotel in Sukhumvit Soi 11 and Soi 8.
Mövenpick BDMS Wellness Resort Bangkok
2 Wireless Road, Lumpini, Pathumwan,
Bangkok 10330, Thailand.
Telephone: +66 (2) 666 3333 | Fax: +66 (2) 666 3334
E-mail: resort.bdms.sales@movenpick.com
www. movenpick.com
(An edited version of this article first appeared in the 17th August 2019 issue of The Free Press Journal newspaper's Saturday Great Escapes section on page 21 https://www.freepressjournal.in/travel/this-bangkok-resort-is-a-tropical-paradise)
Great Escapes--17th August 2019
Great Escapes weekly Saturday travel page for The Free Press Journal newspaper curated, edited and produced by Raul Dias
Sunday, August 11, 2019
Taking Kedgeree Home
Post Independence, the British returned home with a whole lot of desi magic to jazz up their rather
‘uninspiring’ cuisine. Raul Dias introduces you to a few such dishes that
have additions of that unmistakable Indian tadka
to them!
I have very little doubt that Indian cuisine is one of the world’s greatest cuisines with its perfect blend of flavours and cooking techniques that range from the wonders of dum to the smoky brilliance of the tandoor and a whole lot more in between. The sheer variety of genres on offer across the country’s length and breadth sort of invalidates the term ‘Indian cuisine’ with each region giving us treats more exotic than the other.
No wonder then, that the Brits—on leaving India after Independence came into being in 1947—have co-opted several India-inspired dishes into the folds of their rather boring cuisine to come up with dishes that are delicious hybrids that have now gone on to define modern British cuisine. Here are four such examples:
By Raul Dias
I have very little doubt that Indian cuisine is one of the world’s greatest cuisines with its perfect blend of flavours and cooking techniques that range from the wonders of dum to the smoky brilliance of the tandoor and a whole lot more in between. The sheer variety of genres on offer across the country’s length and breadth sort of invalidates the term ‘Indian cuisine’ with each region giving us treats more exotic than the other.
No wonder then, that the Brits—on leaving India after Independence came into being in 1947—have co-opted several India-inspired dishes into the folds of their rather boring cuisine to come up with dishes that are delicious hybrids that have now gone on to define modern British cuisine. Here are four such examples:
Piccalilli
This low-on-spice British interpretation of Indian achar is a sort of relish made up of chopped pickled vegetables and spices, particularly cauliflower, onion, and gherkin—and seasonings of mustard and turmeric. And like in the various Indian achars, in Britain too regional recipes of piccalilli vary considerably. The Oxford English Dictionary traces the word to the middle of the 18th century when, in 1758, a certain Hannah Glasse described how “to make Paco-Lilla, or India Pickle”. An apparently earlier reference is in Anne Blencowe’s Receipt Book, written in 1694, which has “To Pickle Lila, an Indian Pickle” credited to Lord Kilmory. Today, piccalilli is best had as part of a traditional Brit working meal called a ploughman’s lunch.
This low-on-spice British interpretation of Indian achar is a sort of relish made up of chopped pickled vegetables and spices, particularly cauliflower, onion, and gherkin—and seasonings of mustard and turmeric. And like in the various Indian achars, in Britain too regional recipes of piccalilli vary considerably. The Oxford English Dictionary traces the word to the middle of the 18th century when, in 1758, a certain Hannah Glasse described how “to make Paco-Lilla, or India Pickle”. An apparently earlier reference is in Anne Blencowe’s Receipt Book, written in 1694, which has “To Pickle Lila, an Indian Pickle” credited to Lord Kilmory. Today, piccalilli is best had as part of a traditional Brit working meal called a ploughman’s lunch.
Mulligatawny
We can easily see the underpinnings of this spice-redolent soup in the South Indian rasam. The tongue-twister of a name originates from the Tamil words for pepper (miḷagu), and water (tanni). Due to its popularity in England during British India, it was one of the few items of India that found common mention in the literature of the period. Recipes for mulligatawny varied greatly over the years. Later versions included British modifications that included meat, though the local Tamil recipe on which it was based did not.
We can easily see the underpinnings of this spice-redolent soup in the South Indian rasam. The tongue-twister of a name originates from the Tamil words for pepper (miḷagu), and water (tanni). Due to its popularity in England during British India, it was one of the few items of India that found common mention in the literature of the period. Recipes for mulligatawny varied greatly over the years. Later versions included British modifications that included meat, though the local Tamil recipe on which it was based did not.
Jalfrezi
Though it shares its name with an Indian dish, the British version of jalfrezi is a concoction all of its own. It consists of a main ingredient such as meat, fish, paneer or vegetables, stir-fried and served in a thick spicy sauce that includes green capsicum along with onions and tomatoes. The recipe for it first appeared in cookbooks of the British India as a way of using up leftovers by frying them with chilli and onion. This English language usage derived from the colloquial Bengali word jhal porhezi: in Bengali, jhal (not to be confused with jhol or water!) means spicy, while porhezi comes from the Persian word, parhezi means suitable for a diet. Today, there is probably not a single curry house in all of Britain that doesn’t sere an iteration of jalfrezi.
Though it shares its name with an Indian dish, the British version of jalfrezi is a concoction all of its own. It consists of a main ingredient such as meat, fish, paneer or vegetables, stir-fried and served in a thick spicy sauce that includes green capsicum along with onions and tomatoes. The recipe for it first appeared in cookbooks of the British India as a way of using up leftovers by frying them with chilli and onion. This English language usage derived from the colloquial Bengali word jhal porhezi: in Bengali, jhal (not to be confused with jhol or water!) means spicy, while porhezi comes from the Persian word, parhezi means suitable for a diet. Today, there is probably not a single curry house in all of Britain that doesn’t sere an iteration of jalfrezi.
Kedgeree
Once again, like the others on this list, Kedgeree too has been adapted from a local Indian dish. This time from the ultra-popular comfort food and convalescence favourite preparation of khichdi! This dish moved to Victorian Britain and changed dramatically. The Brit take on the dish is one that is made up of cooked, flaked fish (traditionally smoked haddock), boiled rice, parsley, hard-boiled eggs, curry powder, butter or cream, and occasionally sultanas. The dish can be eaten hot or cold. Other fish can be used instead of haddock such as tuna or salmon, though that is not traditional. It is believed to have been popularised by returning British colonials who had enjoyed it in India and introduced it to the UK as a breakfast dish in Victorian times, part of the then fashionable Anglo-Indian cuisine.
Once again, like the others on this list, Kedgeree too has been adapted from a local Indian dish. This time from the ultra-popular comfort food and convalescence favourite preparation of khichdi! This dish moved to Victorian Britain and changed dramatically. The Brit take on the dish is one that is made up of cooked, flaked fish (traditionally smoked haddock), boiled rice, parsley, hard-boiled eggs, curry powder, butter or cream, and occasionally sultanas. The dish can be eaten hot or cold. Other fish can be used instead of haddock such as tuna or salmon, though that is not traditional. It is believed to have been popularised by returning British colonials who had enjoyed it in India and introduced it to the UK as a breakfast dish in Victorian times, part of the then fashionable Anglo-Indian cuisine.
(An edited version of this column first appeared in the 11th August 2019 issue of The Free Press Journal newspaper's Weekend section on page 3 https://www.freepressjournal.in/food/food-review-taking-home-indian-tadka)
Saturday, August 10, 2019
Journeys of a Lifetime!
Sit back and have the railway journey of a lifetime
seeing all of what magical India has on offer. Raul Dias brings you four of the country’s most iconic rail journeys,
where old world luxury meets adventure in a glam embrace.
By Raul Dias
Maharajas’ Express
Finding itself on the top of our list, and rightly so, the super-exquisite Maharajas’ Express, has been bestowed the “World’s Leading Luxury Train” award at the World Travel Awards for seven consecutive years from 2012 to 2018. In its tenth year of operations, this luxury train is just as glamourous and awe-inspiring than ever before. Though it does have several exotic itineraries to pick from, the train’s signature Indian Panorama six nights/seven days itinerary will take you on a magical journey through some of India’s most celebrated and venerated places like Orchha, Varanasi and Khajuraho, besides stopping at other well-visited tourist hot spots like Jaipur, Agra and Fatehpur Sikri. The train itself is well-equipped with all the important pe-requisites to make you feel like royalty. For your comfort, the train has a four-cabin choice. Take your pick from either a Deluxe Cabin, Presidential Suite, Suite or Junior Suite. Each of these are designed so beautifully that if one sees through the window, one can enjoy uninterrupted vistas of the rolling landscape outside. For your dining needs, the dining car is where amazing world class cuisine is served on gold- and silver-plated cutlery that are in-keeping with the elegant décor of the train. The theme restaurants like the Peacock Restaurant (Mayur Mahal) and Haveli Restaurant (Rang Mahal) along with The Safari Bar will make sure that your post-excursion evenings are made equally memorable.
Finding itself on the top of our list, and rightly so, the super-exquisite Maharajas’ Express, has been bestowed the “World’s Leading Luxury Train” award at the World Travel Awards for seven consecutive years from 2012 to 2018. In its tenth year of operations, this luxury train is just as glamourous and awe-inspiring than ever before. Though it does have several exotic itineraries to pick from, the train’s signature Indian Panorama six nights/seven days itinerary will take you on a magical journey through some of India’s most celebrated and venerated places like Orchha, Varanasi and Khajuraho, besides stopping at other well-visited tourist hot spots like Jaipur, Agra and Fatehpur Sikri. The train itself is well-equipped with all the important pe-requisites to make you feel like royalty. For your comfort, the train has a four-cabin choice. Take your pick from either a Deluxe Cabin, Presidential Suite, Suite or Junior Suite. Each of these are designed so beautifully that if one sees through the window, one can enjoy uninterrupted vistas of the rolling landscape outside. For your dining needs, the dining car is where amazing world class cuisine is served on gold- and silver-plated cutlery that are in-keeping with the elegant décor of the train. The theme restaurants like the Peacock Restaurant (Mayur Mahal) and Haveli Restaurant (Rang Mahal) along with The Safari Bar will make sure that your post-excursion evenings are made equally memorable.
The Golden Chariot
Snaking its way through the four South Indian states of Karnataka, Goa, Kerala and Tamil Nadu, along with the union territory of Pondicherry, the Golden Chariot train is the epitome of luxe travel. The eight days/seven nights’ circular Southern Splendour and Pride of the South journeys start and end in the dynamic city of Bangalore with a whole host of interesting destinations covered en route. From Madurai, one of the oldest cities in South India, famous for its silks, pearls and spices that you can shop for to ogling at the sunset in Kanyakumari at the very tip of India, there is a whole lot on offer on this epic train journey. The journey also offers one a glimpse into South India’s colonial past, taking in the Portuguese flavour of Goa and the French flair of Pondicherry with specially designed day trip options. The ornately decorated train is made up of 18 coaches that are each distinct and theme-based. Inspired by the Mysore and Belur-Halebeedu schools of art and architecture, the Golden Chariot’s 44 cabins are as plush as they can get. Other luxury amenities onboard include two speciality restaurants, Madira—the lounge bar and Arogya—The Spa and Gym that aim to take care of all your sybaritic needs to the hilt.
Snaking its way through the four South Indian states of Karnataka, Goa, Kerala and Tamil Nadu, along with the union territory of Pondicherry, the Golden Chariot train is the epitome of luxe travel. The eight days/seven nights’ circular Southern Splendour and Pride of the South journeys start and end in the dynamic city of Bangalore with a whole host of interesting destinations covered en route. From Madurai, one of the oldest cities in South India, famous for its silks, pearls and spices that you can shop for to ogling at the sunset in Kanyakumari at the very tip of India, there is a whole lot on offer on this epic train journey. The journey also offers one a glimpse into South India’s colonial past, taking in the Portuguese flavour of Goa and the French flair of Pondicherry with specially designed day trip options. The ornately decorated train is made up of 18 coaches that are each distinct and theme-based. Inspired by the Mysore and Belur-Halebeedu schools of art and architecture, the Golden Chariot’s 44 cabins are as plush as they can get. Other luxury amenities onboard include two speciality restaurants, Madira—the lounge bar and Arogya—The Spa and Gym that aim to take care of all your sybaritic needs to the hilt.
The Heritage Palace on Wheels
With a compact three-day itinerary, this legendary luxury train journey—that operates from September to April—will take you to three beautiful cities in northern India. Be it a wander around the pink city Jaipur or to follow the trail of the mighty tiger in Ranthambhore or perhaps to Agra, home of the immortal symbol of love—the exquisite Taj Mahal, the journey aboard The Heritage Palace on Wheels will have the sights, sounds and memories of this wonderful part of the country permanently etched onto your hearts and minds. The train has 14 air-conditioned coaches that are each named after former Rajput states and each matching the aesthetics and interiors of the royal past. Each saloon has a mini pantry to ensure availability of hot and cold beverages, and refreshments at all times. The modern conveniences have been thoughtfully provided to include plush sofas to sink into, strategically placed lights to read by, wonderfully appointed beds with comfortable furnishings, inbuilt wardrobe and huge glass windows to watch the countryside roll past. Taking care of all your dining needs, the train has two restaurants aptly named Maharaja and Maharani with a Rajasthani ambience, serving everything from continental, and Chinese to the much-in-demand Indian and Rajasthani cuisines. And yes, for those with a yen for getting pampered, the train even has its very own spa that’s called…you guessed it—the Royal Spa!
With a compact three-day itinerary, this legendary luxury train journey—that operates from September to April—will take you to three beautiful cities in northern India. Be it a wander around the pink city Jaipur or to follow the trail of the mighty tiger in Ranthambhore or perhaps to Agra, home of the immortal symbol of love—the exquisite Taj Mahal, the journey aboard The Heritage Palace on Wheels will have the sights, sounds and memories of this wonderful part of the country permanently etched onto your hearts and minds. The train has 14 air-conditioned coaches that are each named after former Rajput states and each matching the aesthetics and interiors of the royal past. Each saloon has a mini pantry to ensure availability of hot and cold beverages, and refreshments at all times. The modern conveniences have been thoughtfully provided to include plush sofas to sink into, strategically placed lights to read by, wonderfully appointed beds with comfortable furnishings, inbuilt wardrobe and huge glass windows to watch the countryside roll past. Taking care of all your dining needs, the train has two restaurants aptly named Maharaja and Maharani with a Rajasthani ambience, serving everything from continental, and Chinese to the much-in-demand Indian and Rajasthani cuisines. And yes, for those with a yen for getting pampered, the train even has its very own spa that’s called…you guessed it—the Royal Spa!
The Deccan Odyssey
Using the same blue print as the iconic Palace on Wheels, this luxury train takes you on a classy joyride traversing through the wonders of Maharashtra and beyond. The Maharashtra Splendor eight days/seven nights’ journey starts from Mumbai and covers ten popular tourist locations including Ratnagiri, Sindhudurg, Goa, Aurangabad, Ajanta-Ellora Nashik, and Pune, returning to Mumbai after wowing you silent. The itinerary makes sure you get to visit highlighted places like the wine capital of India—Nashik, colourful Kolhapur, India’s party capital—Goa, Aurangabad and Jalgaon known for housing UNESCO World Heritage Sites Ajanta and Ellora Caves and the holy city of Ratnagiri. The Deccan Odyssey train comprises of 21 luxuriously appointed coaches. Out of these 21 coaches, 11 are to accommodate guests and the rest are used for different purposes such as dining, lounge, a conference car and a health spa. Inspired by the imperial carriages used by the Maharajas of yore for travelling, each of the coaches in this luxury train pays homage to a different royal era of Maharashtra that was once ruled by diverse dynasties. Dining options include two restaurants on board that serve a wide selection of Indian, Oriental and continental delicacies. All this—coupled with impeccable service and attention to detail—makes your meandering journey through western India one that you wish would never end…
Using the same blue print as the iconic Palace on Wheels, this luxury train takes you on a classy joyride traversing through the wonders of Maharashtra and beyond. The Maharashtra Splendor eight days/seven nights’ journey starts from Mumbai and covers ten popular tourist locations including Ratnagiri, Sindhudurg, Goa, Aurangabad, Ajanta-Ellora Nashik, and Pune, returning to Mumbai after wowing you silent. The itinerary makes sure you get to visit highlighted places like the wine capital of India—Nashik, colourful Kolhapur, India’s party capital—Goa, Aurangabad and Jalgaon known for housing UNESCO World Heritage Sites Ajanta and Ellora Caves and the holy city of Ratnagiri. The Deccan Odyssey train comprises of 21 luxuriously appointed coaches. Out of these 21 coaches, 11 are to accommodate guests and the rest are used for different purposes such as dining, lounge, a conference car and a health spa. Inspired by the imperial carriages used by the Maharajas of yore for travelling, each of the coaches in this luxury train pays homage to a different royal era of Maharashtra that was once ruled by diverse dynasties. Dining options include two restaurants on board that serve a wide selection of Indian, Oriental and continental delicacies. All this—coupled with impeccable service and attention to detail—makes your meandering journey through western India one that you wish would never end…
(A shorter, edited version of this article first appeared in the July-Aug-Sept 2019 issue of HDFC Imperia magazine)
Saturday, August 3, 2019
That Royal Touch
Inspired by India’s rich, royal heritage, the
opulent Noor Mahal in Karnal is perfect for that dream destination wedding…and
more! Raul Dias
recently discovered this truly incredible palace hotel over one magical
weekend.
By Raul Dias
Although I had heard of Karnal before and
had even driven through it a few years ago en route from Delhi to Mori in
Uttarakhand, I knew embarrassingly little about the city that seemed to be the
pride of the state of Haryana. Gaurav, my rather chatty driver who ferried me
from the Delhi Airport towards Karnal two-and-a-half hours away kept regaling
me with tales of the Mahabharata as we drove past historical towns like
Panipant and Sonipat—the former famous for its epic Battle of Panipat. It was
as though he was preparing me for the grandeur and awe-inspiring beauty my
final destination—the palatial Noor Mahal Hotel—had in store for me…
Grand
Beginnings
Nestled in the mystical land of the Mahabharata, the truly breath-taking Noor Mahal is one of those ‘Incredible Indian Palace Hotels’ that has been built on a monumental scale. And that was evident to me as we drove up to its mighty gates that made me feel like I was entering some sort of an actual palace. But then again, it is a five-star luxury palace hotel that is inspired by India’s rich heritage and one that captures all the grandeur and luxury enjoyed by Indian Maharajas over the centuries.
A reflection of Rajputana and Mughal architecture, the grand structure that stands out as a true blend of history, culture and aesthetics, has been designed by one of India’s notable architects, Himmat Singh. Set amid the culturally rich land of Karnal, this palace hotel enjoys equal proximity to both Delhi and Chandigarh. With lush green fields and farms surrounding it, the hotel is situated on the old course of the Yamuna river traversing its way to Delhi.
Upon entering the hotel, an impressive lobby featuring beautiful architecture, intricately carved furniture, antique paintings and artefacts welcomes guests like myself with an outstanding first impression. The hotel has two courtyards laid out along the east and west axis. The first courtyard is called the Deewan-e-Aam on the lobby level, providing an access from all four sides. The second is the Deewan-e-Khas on the first floor which is surrounded by rooms and balconies with low jaalis and chajjas.
Nestled in the mystical land of the Mahabharata, the truly breath-taking Noor Mahal is one of those ‘Incredible Indian Palace Hotels’ that has been built on a monumental scale. And that was evident to me as we drove up to its mighty gates that made me feel like I was entering some sort of an actual palace. But then again, it is a five-star luxury palace hotel that is inspired by India’s rich heritage and one that captures all the grandeur and luxury enjoyed by Indian Maharajas over the centuries.
A reflection of Rajputana and Mughal architecture, the grand structure that stands out as a true blend of history, culture and aesthetics, has been designed by one of India’s notable architects, Himmat Singh. Set amid the culturally rich land of Karnal, this palace hotel enjoys equal proximity to both Delhi and Chandigarh. With lush green fields and farms surrounding it, the hotel is situated on the old course of the Yamuna river traversing its way to Delhi.
Upon entering the hotel, an impressive lobby featuring beautiful architecture, intricately carved furniture, antique paintings and artefacts welcomes guests like myself with an outstanding first impression. The hotel has two courtyards laid out along the east and west axis. The first courtyard is called the Deewan-e-Aam on the lobby level, providing an access from all four sides. The second is the Deewan-e-Khas on the first floor which is surrounded by rooms and balconies with low jaalis and chajjas.
Sumptuous
Living!
Speaking of rooms, Noor Mahal offers a selection of 122 heritage-imbued rooms and suites, uniquely designed to provide luxurious royal splendour. Apart from the Presidential suites and heritage suites, Noor Mahal boasts a special royal sleeping chamber called the ‘Khwabgah’ which includes two bedrooms, a living room, a dining room, a private bar, an office chamber and a spacious terrace that gives one an overview of Karnal city.
From the architecture, design and service to the intangible atmosphere and modern luxury they provide, the rooms and suites are perfect for a royal staycation. They are elegantly decorated with a mix of bespoke furnishings, beautiful antiques and carefully chosen object d’art that underscore an exceptional attention to detail. Special traditional hand-paintings on the wall enhance the grandeur. The bold and impressive ‘4 Hiran Minars’ or 4 golden towers stand 100 feet high with octagonal chhatris at the four corners on top.
Speaking of rooms, Noor Mahal offers a selection of 122 heritage-imbued rooms and suites, uniquely designed to provide luxurious royal splendour. Apart from the Presidential suites and heritage suites, Noor Mahal boasts a special royal sleeping chamber called the ‘Khwabgah’ which includes two bedrooms, a living room, a dining room, a private bar, an office chamber and a spacious terrace that gives one an overview of Karnal city.
From the architecture, design and service to the intangible atmosphere and modern luxury they provide, the rooms and suites are perfect for a royal staycation. They are elegantly decorated with a mix of bespoke furnishings, beautiful antiques and carefully chosen object d’art that underscore an exceptional attention to detail. Special traditional hand-paintings on the wall enhance the grandeur. The bold and impressive ‘4 Hiran Minars’ or 4 golden towers stand 100 feet high with octagonal chhatris at the four corners on top.
Grand
Feasting
Besides a totally separate banqueting kitchen, Noor Mahal takes great pride in its F&B offerings. For a unique dining experience, Frontier Mail has been designed recreating the legendry Frontier Mail train that operated between Mumbai and Peshawar during pre-independence days. Even its menu comprises of dishes from the regions through which the train made its initial journey.
And while the all-day dining Brown Sugar offers both buffet meals as well as an a la carte menu showcasing global favourites, the leather and dark wood-finished Polo Bar is the perfect place to unwind as it sets the perfect ambience for evenings with an eclectic collection of fine spirits, cognacs and cigars.
Besides a totally separate banqueting kitchen, Noor Mahal takes great pride in its F&B offerings. For a unique dining experience, Frontier Mail has been designed recreating the legendry Frontier Mail train that operated between Mumbai and Peshawar during pre-independence days. Even its menu comprises of dishes from the regions through which the train made its initial journey.
And while the all-day dining Brown Sugar offers both buffet meals as well as an a la carte menu showcasing global favourites, the leather and dark wood-finished Polo Bar is the perfect place to unwind as it sets the perfect ambience for evenings with an eclectic collection of fine spirits, cognacs and cigars.
Of
Dream Weddings
Spread over 10 acres and 35,0000 square feet of carpet area, Noor Mahal is an ideal venue for that dream destination wedding, offering everything from 13 beautifully appointed banquet halls to an in-house salon, spa, gym and a team of wedding planners who are at your beck and call. No wonder then, Noor Mahal has become a one stop shop for all wedding requirements as the hotel follows an innovative approach in keeping up with the times and offering guests trendy and personalised wedding experiences. The mix of royal grandeur and the rich modern hospitality makes this beautiful palace a dream destination to take those marriage vows and plan those memorable pre-and post-wedding celebrations.
No wonder then that earning the title of one of the country’s most splendid option for romantic weddings, Noor Mahal is nothing less than the epitome of intimacy and tradition.
Spread over 10 acres and 35,0000 square feet of carpet area, Noor Mahal is an ideal venue for that dream destination wedding, offering everything from 13 beautifully appointed banquet halls to an in-house salon, spa, gym and a team of wedding planners who are at your beck and call. No wonder then, Noor Mahal has become a one stop shop for all wedding requirements as the hotel follows an innovative approach in keeping up with the times and offering guests trendy and personalised wedding experiences. The mix of royal grandeur and the rich modern hospitality makes this beautiful palace a dream destination to take those marriage vows and plan those memorable pre-and post-wedding celebrations.
No wonder then that earning the title of one of the country’s most splendid option for romantic weddings, Noor Mahal is nothing less than the epitome of intimacy and tradition.
Noor Mahal Crossing, NH1,
Sector-32, Karnal (NCR)
Telephone: 09996787884 / 891 / 892
Email: sales@noormahal.in / salesbqts@noormahal.in
www.noormahal.in
(An edited version of this article first appeared in the 3rd August 2019 issue of The Free Press Journal newspaper's Saturday Great Escapes section on page 23 https://www.freepressjournal.in/travel/that-royal-touch)
The Progressive Menu—Swiss Style!
From playing host to mainland Europe’s
only tea plantation to having the world’s first vegetarian ‘butcher’ and a
chocolate factory manned by a single person, Switzerland is full of some of the
unlikeliest of culinary surprises that make up the perfect progressive dining menu.
By Raul Dias
I distinctly remember my
very first encounter with the term “progressive dining”. It was a decade ago—after
a sweltering hot April day spent traipsing around Bangkok’s shopping malls—that
my local friends suggested an encore. But with a foodie twist. What they
proposed was a jaunt across the bustling megalopolis where we’d have drinks at
one place, appetisers at another, mains at a 1 Michelin-starred restaurant on
the other side of the Chao Phraya River and end with a movable (quite
literally!) dessert feast at Bangkok’s coolest new ice cream truck in the
backpacker haven of Khao San Road.
Born in the US of the late 1980s as a sort of dining scene hybrid of the 70s potluck dinner and known multifariously as a “safari supper” and a “round-robin”, a progressive dinner originally involved successive courses prepared and eaten at the residences of different hosts in the same area. And while my 2009 version had ‘progressed’ to involve different neighbourhoods in the same city, it’s safe to say that my recent 2019 upgraded Swiss iteration of the term involved something a tad different…
Born in the US of the late 1980s as a sort of dining scene hybrid of the 70s potluck dinner and known multifariously as a “safari supper” and a “round-robin”, a progressive dinner originally involved successive courses prepared and eaten at the residences of different hosts in the same area. And while my 2009 version had ‘progressed’ to involve different neighbourhoods in the same city, it’s safe to say that my recent 2019 upgraded Swiss iteration of the term involved something a tad different…
Course I
Wine with Chips, perhaps?
With a legacy that stretches back to the 14th Century, Domaine Zweifel is a winery that’s unlike any other I had ever visited. For one, it is located in the Limmat Valley just outside the city of Zurich in Zurich-Höngg, a short 15-minutes bus ride away from the city’s main train station. And though it isn’t surprising that Zurich is the largest wine producing area in eastern Switzerland, it is almost unfathomable to have a full-fledged vineyard so close to the city center. The family firm not only makes some truly fine-tasting, easy-on-the palate wines like the smoky Räuschling and the refreshing and light Pinot Gris but is also the producer of Zweifel, Switzerland’s number one brand of potato chips. The slightly spicy paprika flavoured one making for the perfect amuse-bouche when paired with their crisp Sauvignon Blanc.
Wine with Chips, perhaps?
With a legacy that stretches back to the 14th Century, Domaine Zweifel is a winery that’s unlike any other I had ever visited. For one, it is located in the Limmat Valley just outside the city of Zurich in Zurich-Höngg, a short 15-minutes bus ride away from the city’s main train station. And though it isn’t surprising that Zurich is the largest wine producing area in eastern Switzerland, it is almost unfathomable to have a full-fledged vineyard so close to the city center. The family firm not only makes some truly fine-tasting, easy-on-the palate wines like the smoky Räuschling and the refreshing and light Pinot Gris but is also the producer of Zweifel, Switzerland’s number one brand of potato chips. The slightly spicy paprika flavoured one making for the perfect amuse-bouche when paired with their crisp Sauvignon Blanc.
Course II
A Starters and Mains Veggie Wonderland
Having never heard of products like ‘Facon’ and ‘Noix Gras’ before, I lost my mock meat virginity at what is claimed to be the world’s first veggie butcher aka. the Hiltl Shop along Zurich’s St. Annagasse street. Chomping down on a fat piece of ‘bacon’ made from tempeh which is a fermented soy bean mock meat and a sliver of melba toast topped with the hazelnut substitute for the goose liver foie gras, I tried hard to mediate the conflict my mind and taste buds were having a go at. Both imposters were that deceptively authentic tasting.
An all vegetarian meal of cumin-dusted roasted cauliflower soup and saffron gnocchi was what followed next door to the ‘butcher shop’ at its sister concern—Haus Hiltl on Sihlstrasse street. This Guinness World Records-certified restaurant is believed to be the world’s oldest vegetarian restaurant having opened its doors in 1898. And while I was told that it welcomes all sorts of diners—including callous carnivores like myself—it banishes away those with a propensity for wearing fur. ‘nuff said!
A Starters and Mains Veggie Wonderland
Having never heard of products like ‘Facon’ and ‘Noix Gras’ before, I lost my mock meat virginity at what is claimed to be the world’s first veggie butcher aka. the Hiltl Shop along Zurich’s St. Annagasse street. Chomping down on a fat piece of ‘bacon’ made from tempeh which is a fermented soy bean mock meat and a sliver of melba toast topped with the hazelnut substitute for the goose liver foie gras, I tried hard to mediate the conflict my mind and taste buds were having a go at. Both imposters were that deceptively authentic tasting.
An all vegetarian meal of cumin-dusted roasted cauliflower soup and saffron gnocchi was what followed next door to the ‘butcher shop’ at its sister concern—Haus Hiltl on Sihlstrasse street. This Guinness World Records-certified restaurant is believed to be the world’s oldest vegetarian restaurant having opened its doors in 1898. And while I was told that it welcomes all sorts of diners—including callous carnivores like myself—it banishes away those with a propensity for wearing fur. ‘nuff said!
Course III
A Chocolate Overdose
Imagine a place that is just like Willy Wonka’s magical factory, but one where Willy Wonka and his posse of Oompa Loompas all fuse into one single person. For dessert of all things chocolate, I headed down to Zurich’s Überlandstrasse street for the one man show that is Taucherli Chocolate. Be it the chief chocolate maker, innovator, packer, marketeer, or supplier, Kay Keusen is all that at this one-man-run artisan chocolaterie. With a tasting of everything from the brand’s roasted rapeseed and spicy Christmas special chocolate bars to the deliciously dark 77% chocolate lollies made from Colombian cocoa nibs, Taucherli Chocolate reinforced my belief that dessert is truly the best part of the meal.
A Chocolate Overdose
Imagine a place that is just like Willy Wonka’s magical factory, but one where Willy Wonka and his posse of Oompa Loompas all fuse into one single person. For dessert of all things chocolate, I headed down to Zurich’s Überlandstrasse street for the one man show that is Taucherli Chocolate. Be it the chief chocolate maker, innovator, packer, marketeer, or supplier, Kay Keusen is all that at this one-man-run artisan chocolaterie. With a tasting of everything from the brand’s roasted rapeseed and spicy Christmas special chocolate bars to the deliciously dark 77% chocolate lollies made from Colombian cocoa nibs, Taucherli Chocolate reinforced my belief that dessert is truly the best part of the meal.
Course IV
Holy Cheese!
For my cheese course, I found myself in the beautiful winter paradise of Engelberg a short two-hour train ride away from Zurich via Lucerne. Just like its name—Engelberg (“angel mountain” in German)—almost everything in this tiny little Alpine town revolves around an angel who was said to have appeared in the dream of Duke Conrad von Sellenbüren in 1120 directing him to construct a monastery in the village. And today, nestled in the shadow of the mighty Titlis mountain, it is the attached cheese factory that is drawing in cheese aficionados by the droves. The show cheese factory is a rather unique one in that it is the only Swiss cheese factory located in a monastery and the only one that can produce the famous Engelberger Klosterglocke soft cream cheese that takes its trademarked bell shape from the monastery’s bell.
Holy Cheese!
For my cheese course, I found myself in the beautiful winter paradise of Engelberg a short two-hour train ride away from Zurich via Lucerne. Just like its name—Engelberg (“angel mountain” in German)—almost everything in this tiny little Alpine town revolves around an angel who was said to have appeared in the dream of Duke Conrad von Sellenbüren in 1120 directing him to construct a monastery in the village. And today, nestled in the shadow of the mighty Titlis mountain, it is the attached cheese factory that is drawing in cheese aficionados by the droves. The show cheese factory is a rather unique one in that it is the only Swiss cheese factory located in a monastery and the only one that can produce the famous Engelberger Klosterglocke soft cream cheese that takes its trademarked bell shape from the monastery’s bell.
Course V
Tranquili‘Tea’…
Given my predilection for a nice post-prandial cup of green tea, I set off to the town of Ascona in the Italian-speaking canton of Ticino to get my fix. Now, while Switzerland might seem like the unlikeliest of places to have its own tea plantation, Monte Verità that looms above Ascona has its own story to tell. Once the spot where revolutionists, artists and philosophers used to experiment new ways of life, Monte Verità or “The Mountain of Truth” is also the place that has mainland Europe’s only tea plantation. It was here at the very end of the “Il sentiero del tè” tea path, surrounded by the lush tea bushes that I got my share of the refreshing sen-cha green tea at a quaint little Japanese tea hut in a traditional tea ceremony that made me believe that I was more in Sapporo than Switzerland!
Tranquili‘Tea’…
Given my predilection for a nice post-prandial cup of green tea, I set off to the town of Ascona in the Italian-speaking canton of Ticino to get my fix. Now, while Switzerland might seem like the unlikeliest of places to have its own tea plantation, Monte Verità that looms above Ascona has its own story to tell. Once the spot where revolutionists, artists and philosophers used to experiment new ways of life, Monte Verità or “The Mountain of Truth” is also the place that has mainland Europe’s only tea plantation. It was here at the very end of the “Il sentiero del tè” tea path, surrounded by the lush tea bushes that I got my share of the refreshing sen-cha green tea at a quaint little Japanese tea hut in a traditional tea ceremony that made me believe that I was more in Sapporo than Switzerland!
Travel
log
Getting There
There are daily direct flights from India to Zurich on Swiss International Airlines. From Zurich, the extensive network of Swiss Railways gets you to both Engelberg and Ascona—or just about anywhere in the country—in luxury and comfort. Getting a Swiss Travel Pass before leaving for Switzerland is a great idea, as it includes unlimited travel on various modes of transport such as trains, trams, buses, cable cars, funiculars and boats. As a bonus, you also get free admission to more than 500 museums throughout Switzerland.
Stay
Though on the expensive side, Zurich has an excellent selection of hotels to choose from. Two such recommended accommodation options are the super trendy, city-centered Marktgasse Hotel Zürich (Rs 21,200 for two with breakfast, marktgassehotel.ch) and the more luxurious, art-filled The Dolder Grand Hotel (Rs 38,900 for two with breakfast, thedoldergrand.com) that’s a little out of the main Zurich commercial zone, but worth the trek!
Though on the expensive side, Zurich has an excellent selection of hotels to choose from. Two such recommended accommodation options are the super trendy, city-centered Marktgasse Hotel Zürich (Rs 21,200 for two with breakfast, marktgassehotel.ch) and the more luxurious, art-filled The Dolder Grand Hotel (Rs 38,900 for two with breakfast, thedoldergrand.com) that’s a little out of the main Zurich commercial zone, but worth the trek!
Tip
* Why not bathe above Zurich’s rooftops? Sign yourselves up for a rooftop bathing experience at the Thermalbad & Spa Zurich amid the century-old stone vaults of the former brewery. Fresh thermal water bubbling straight from Zurich’s hot springs helps you catch up with some much-needed R&R (thermalbad-zuerich.ch).
* Why not bathe above Zurich’s rooftops? Sign yourselves up for a rooftop bathing experience at the Thermalbad & Spa Zurich amid the century-old stone vaults of the former brewery. Fresh thermal water bubbling straight from Zurich’s hot springs helps you catch up with some much-needed R&R (thermalbad-zuerich.ch).
(An edited version of this article first appeared in the 3rd August 2019 issue of The Hindu Business Line newspaper's BLink section on page 21 https://www.thehindubusinessline.com/blink/takeaway/progressive-dining-in-switzerland/article28793834.ece?fbclid=IwAR0ksRMPhN19a2w0OxUtcyGOL0lip7Vv4g46dTzAFEHYDqt3u3vZpyYH5RI)
Great Escapes--3rd August 2019
Great Escapes weekly Saturday travel page for The Free Press Journal newspaper curated, edited and produced by Raul Dias
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