Hygge, Swedish style

The restrained, almost icy veneer that they are famous for is demolished within minutes, when a group of Swedes comes together for a good old knees-up involving food, drink and general bonhomie 

By Raul Dias

Though they may vehemently deny it, the Swedes are quite similar to their neighbours, the Danes, in many ways. But, if there’s one uniquely Scandinavian concept that truly cements this congruity, then that would have to be the Danish word “hygge” (pronounced “hoog-uh”). Said to be a state of being that’s characterised by the warmth and coziness enjoyed with friends and family—mostly over an intimate meal—hygge has long crossed borders into Sweden.
Come spring, and one sees a host of such hygge-centric activities mushroom up at parks, by lakes, in backyards all across Sweden, celebrating the long days and short nights…

Surströmming—a Delicious Stinkfest! 
Singing the famous Swedish drinking song Helan Går—which when loosely translated into English means “chug it down”—couldn’t be more appropriate when at a surströmming party. In fact, it is imperative, as you find yourself knocking back shot after shot of the potato alcohol aquavit, once you’re done with your first bite of surströmming.
Simply put, this northern Swedish delicacy that dates back to the 16th century, originating in the Höga Kusten region of Sweden, is a super-stinky ‘appetiser’ of fermented herring. Baltic herring are caught in the spring, salted and left to ferment, before being stuffed in a tin about a month before it hits the tables and shops. The fermentation process continues in the tin; ‘souring’ as the Swedes refer to it, and results in a bulging tin of fermented herring or surströmming with an aroma that is intensely pungent.
Usually enjoyed by groups of families and friends in early fall and more specifically on the third Thursday in August, a surströmming party is always held outdoors. And justifiably so! The ceremony behind opening and serving a can of surströmming has its own rules. Number one: check the direction of the wind first, or risk fogging up everybody present with a blast of the noxious odour. Make sure to have on hand a few ‘back-up acts’, no matter how benignly mild surströmming actually tastes. These take the form of the typically Swedish circular hard bread called tunnbröd, atop which a little bit of the herring and the sour cream-like gräddfil spread is placed, along with a garnish of dill fronds and onion rings. All this, topped off with slices of boiled potato to take the edge of things. If only…

A Crayfish Rumpus
While traditionalists may bicker about which came first, the Louisiana crawfish boil or the Swedish crayfish party, both their underpinnings couldn’t be more alike. In that, they both are about enjoying copious amounts of freshwater crustaceans and the company of each other. Known as a kräftskiva in Sweden, and marking the end of summer, a crayfish party may seem reassuringly informal, but that’s not often the case. Remember, we’re still talking about the rules-obsessed Swedes! So, this means people gathered under white tents, wearing funny hats in the shapes of cones with colorful print, drinking snaps (and nothing else, save for water) and eating boiled, peeled crayfish called kräftor placed in huge, almost pool-sized bowls after dunking them in aioli and rounding it all off with a savoury pie made from the aged Västerbottensost cheese.

The Fika Phenomenon
Imagine having something like a mandatory, daily coffee break written into your job contract. Or picture yourself sitting down with the family everyday and discussing almost everything under the sun over a plate of warm cinnamon rolls. Well, for the Swedes, this isn’t some halcyon dream, but an everyday reality. It even has a mellifluous name—fika!
A clever syllabic play, the term ‘fika’ is a spoonerism for kafi as coffee is spelled in Swedish. It is also, hands down, one of Sweden’s greatest down time pursuits that almost everybody in the country enjoys daily, with its two lynchpins being kanelbulle, or cinnamon rolls and coffee.
The latter is no great surprise. As the world’s second highest consumers of coffee, after their northeastern neighbours the Finns, the Swedes have perfected the art of celebrating the beverage and all the trappings that come with the seemingly simple act of drinking it. But then again, fika is much more than having a coffee. It is a social phenomenon, a legitimate reason to set aside a moment for quality time.
Interestingly, many companies in Sweden have made it mandatory for all their workers to have a designated time off during the day to sit down and do fika. Even Sweden’s most iconic flatpack furniture and home decor brand Ikea, strongly endorses the fika concept, as is apparent from a paragraph about it on its corporate website: “More than a coffee break, fika is a time to share, connect and relax with colleagues. Some of the best ideas and decisions happen at fika.” Amen to that!

(A shorter, differently edited version of this article appeared in the 28th July 2018 issue of the Mint Lounge newspaper, India on page 8 https://www.livemint.com/Leisure/y3vi72RZeJ2qXU2VVXYbJO/A-summer-of-Swedish-hygge.html)

4 Reasons Why Ticino is Switzerland’s Best Kept Secret

With its sunny, almost-Mediterranean climate and relaxed, laid-back vibe, the Italian-speaking Canton of Ticino in the south of Switzerland is a hidden jewel waiting to be discovered. Raul Dias shows you another facet of this perennial tourist favourite!  

Ascona (pic courtesy: Switzerland Tourism)

By Raul Dias

1. Ascona on Lake Maggiore
Lying at the delta of the River Maggia in a unique, sun-drenched bay, the pretty town of Ascona is often described as “the pearl of Lake Maggiore”. Although popular with local Swiss travellers as a top-quality holiday resort, not much is known about Ascona on the global travel scene. Not anymore, we say! With the motto here being “l’arte di vivere” or “the art of living”, Ascona puts on a mighty show with its irresistible waterfront on the Piazza Giuseppe Motta that is home to numerous restaurants, cafés and bars that stay open until the wee hours. Yet Ascona is more than just a chic party place: this picturesque resort town has a rich cultural and historical heritage. Especially impressive are the Baroque façades of the Casa Serodine and the neighbouring parish church of Santi Pietro e Paolo, a pillared basilica dating from the 16th century, of which the high bell-tower or campanile is the symbol of Ascona. Lake Maggiore is another one of its calling cards. As the largest lake in Southern Switzerland, with its shoreline divided between the Italian regions of Piedmont and Lombardy and the Italian-speaking Swiss canton of Ticino, the lake is perfect for a leisurely afternoon sail down its placid waters.

2. Monte Verità: Europe’s Only Tea Plantation
Monte Verità, also known as ‘The Mountain of Truth’—that sits mighty above Ascona—is a unique place. Not only is it the spot where revolutionists, artists and philosophers once used to experiment new ways of life, but it is also the place that has mainland Europe’s only tea plantation. This botanic miracle has become a reality, on the one hand because of the unique microclimate, and on the other thanks to Peter Oppliger an expert in medicinal plants who calls himself a “tea philosopher”. After years of experimentation, it was only in the autumn of 2005 that the first harvest could successfully be made into a small amount of green tea. Oppliger’s aim, it is said, is not commercial cultivation, but to show those who are interested the working of tea cultivation and production. “Il sentiero del tè” (The Tea Way) is a course which has been built according to Japanese philosophy. Along this free-to-all path built into the slopes of Monte Verità, visitors can experience every aspect of the culture of tea from its production to its appreciation.

3. The Quaint Little Village of Gandria
Few places in Ticino are photographed as much as the beautiful little village of Gandria on Lake Lugano. As the last village of Switzerland before the border with neighbouring Italy, Gandria has a distinct Italian look and feel to it. And the best way to get a pulse of the magic of this former fishing village is to roam its narrow streets on foot. However, it is said that the lake is the best vantage point to see the terraced houses rising up the hillside below the Baroque San Vigilio Church. You can also reach the town of Lugano by boat in a matter of minutes. The alternative is to walk along the olive path, which meanders through woods and olive groves on the lake shore. Don’t miss checking out the information boards along the seven-kilometer route that offer valuable insights into the history, botany, cultivation, and oil made from the olive fruit.

4. Fall for Lugano’s Charms
As the largest town in Ticino, Lugano is not only Switzerland’s third most important financial center, but also a town of parks and flowers, villas and sacred buildings. With an unmissable Mediterranean flair, Lugano offers all the advantages of an excellent city, combined with the cachet of a small town. Located in a bay on the northern side of Lake Lugano, surrounded by the mounts San Salvatore and Brè, any side you look will reward you with splendid views. The traffic-free historic town center, the famous exclusive-shopping street of Via Nassa or the gourmet-street Via Pessina, the numerous buildings in Lombardy style, the exclusive museums, the mountains, lake and a packed calendar of events all suggest the decidedly Italian-inspired good life or “dolce vita”. By the lakeside promenade, don’t miss the Belvedere Garden, where the parkland boasts not only of camellias and magnolias but also of countless sub-tropical plants and modern works of art and sculptures.

(An edited version of this article appeared on 25 July 2018 in Travel + Leisure, India and South Asia http://travelandleisureindia.in/ticino-is-a-swiss-secret-canton/)

Notes from Switzerland

By Raul Dias

Fronted by the magnificent views of the hills of the city of Ascona on its Northwestern shoreline, Lake Maggiore—or ‘Lago Maggiore’ to use the lingua franca of Switzerland’s Italian speaking region of Ticino—is a rather unique waterbody. Not only is it the largest lake in Southern Switzerland, with its shoreline divided between the Italian regions of Piedmont and Lombardy and the Swiss canton of Ticino, but Lake Maggiore also holds within its placid waters a little secret. Tea.

Down to the Tea
Yes, around one hundred tea plants can be found on the Isola Grande, the larger of the lake’s two islands, close to the Ascona shoreline. But with these planted as mere sample crops, Ascona’s true claim to fame as home to mainland Europe’s (there is another on the mid-Atlantic Azores Islands of Portugal) first and only tea plantation, however, lies a little farther up a hill. Aptly called Monte Verità or ‘Mountain of Truth’, it was on this hill, perched precariously above the city of Ascona, where revolutionists, artists and philosophers once used to experiment new ways of life, all thanks to one man.
In 1964, Baron Eduard von der Heydt bequeathed the Monte Verità complex to the Swiss Republic and Canton of Ticino with the request that “Monte Verità be used for international artistic and cultural activities at the highest level”. So, in the mid-90s, taking this request seriously, Peter Oppliger an expert in medicinal plants and self-confessed ‘tea philosopher’ started experimenting with cultivating tea plant saplings brought in from India, China, Sri Lanka and Japan.
However, it was only in the autumn of 2005 that this botanic miracle of cultivating tea in Europe became a reality, thanks to Oppliger’s efforts and because of Ascona’s unique microclimate. It was then that the first harvest of the Camellia Sinensis variety of tea could successfully be made into a small amount of green tea.

Japan in Switzerland!
Today, in-keeping with the Monte Verità communal philosophy, combined with Oppliger’s aim of non-commercial cultivation, the modest-sized plantation is open for free to all those who are interested in understanding tea cultivation and production. Set up to resemble a bucolic Japanese tea garden, replete with gurgling streams, a zen garden and a gazebo, it is here where volunteers take guests on a tea quest of sorts.
“Il sentiero del tè” or “The Tea Way” is a course which has been built according to Japanese philosophy. Along this path, tea enthusiasts get to experience every aspect of the culture of tea from around the world. With everything from our very own desi chai deconstructed, to the modern-day trend of cold brewing explained to the, well…T!
However, it is at the last station, where the most intense of all tea experiences takes place. In a purpose-built Japanese style log cabin called a chashitsu, guests are taken through a ritual chanoyu Japanese tea ceremony.

Add Ons…
But it’s not all about tea atop Monte Verità. For architectural style enthusiasts like myself, the Monte Verità Hotel next to the tea plantation with its large communal balconies and wide corridors presented itself as a perfect specimen of the languid, rather fluid lines of the Bauhaus architectural movement of the mid-20^th century. A style that itself was born out of the post-WWII need for austerity by embracing utilitarianism and community, while vehemently condemning ornamentation of any kind and thus a continuation of Baron Eduard von der Heydt’s ideology of fostering artistic and communal expression.

(An edited version of this article first appeared in the 22nd July 2018 issue of The Hindu newspaper's Sunday Magazine section on page 7 https://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/travel/notes-from-switzerland/article24481825.ece)

10 Ways To ‘Do’ Chiang Mai Right!

The picturesque town of Chiang Mai nestled in the verdant hills of Lanna, Northern Thailand is an idyllic haven of calm and serene bliss, away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. Raul Dias brings you 10 ways to make the most of your Northern Thailand jaunt

By Raul Dias

     
From learning the finer nuances of Northern Thai cookery and massage, to marveling at the handicrafts made here, there is a lot on offer for the intrepid traveller.

1.      Commune With The Divine
Make the surreal Wat Chedi Luang, nestled at the very core of Chiang Mai—both physically and metaphorically—your first pit stop. According to ancient Lanna beliefs, the temple is at the epicentre of the city which mark the centre of the universe. Dating back to 1385, this grand temple was once home to the stunning Emerald Buddha, that you can now find in Bangkok’s Grand Palace. The surrounding temples and shrines in the main complex are equally revered as many contain relics of the Buddha. (www.tourismthailand.org)

2.      Go Handicraft Hunting
One of the finest repositories of the ancient art of parasol making is the Bo Sang Handicraft Centre a little out of the main, compact Chiang Mai city centre. Here, you can not only pick up a few gorgeous parasols at rock bottom prices, but the on-site artists making them are only too happy to give you a short little demonstration. (www.visitchiangmai.com.au/bo_sang.html)

3.      Get Cooking
With a lighter, more herbaceous take on the coconut milk-redolent southern and central Thai food, the Lanna cuisine of the north is a unique and flavourful one. Sign up with the newly launched Airbnb Experiences and learn the art of Northern Thai cookery with a 4-hour hands-on class with Air one of Chiang Mai’s most celebrated chefs. (www.airbnb.co.in/experiences/205730)

4.      Meet The Giants
The Chiang-Dao Elephant Training Center a mere 30 minutes out of the city is as far removed from a ‘zoo’ as it can be. This center is home to 32 elephants that are each trained by their own mahout and here the emphasis is strongly on eco tourism. Travellers can not only come up close and personal with the center’s inhabitants but can also see them wander through the dense forests as well as help bathe them in the placid Po River nearby. (www.chiangdaoelephantcamp.com/)

5.      Mingle With The Hill People
For a glimpse of the elusive Hmong, Shan and Karen hill tribe people of this region, book yourself a place on a half day trip with Airbnb Experiences and learn about everything from their traditional stilt bamboo houses and tribal lifestyle to fabric weaving and their indigenous rice farming techniques. (www.airbnb.co.in/experiences/248011)

6.      Opium, Anyone? 
In nearby Chiang Rai, pay a visit to The Hall of Opium Museum. Here, you can learn about the trade, sale, consumption and after effects of the dreaded drug that was notoriously popular all over the Asian continent in the 17^th and 18^th centuries. The eerie, cavernous tunnel-like entrance is a fascinating introduction to the museum with its sculpted frescos showing twisted, contorted human faces, all bathed in a deep blue light. (www.maefahluang.org)  

7.      Release A Lantern
If you happen to be in Chiang Mai in the month of November, then all your senses will be treated to the delights of the beautiful Yi Peng festival. This autumn festival celebrates the full moon day in the second month according to the Lanna lunar calendar with intricately fashioned lanterns called khom loi launched into the air to take one’s wishes up to the Gods above! (www.tourismthailand.org)

8.      Visit A Royal Villa
Chosen as the summer home for the Thai Royal family, Chiang Rai is famous for the rather unusual Doi Tung Royal Villa that the current King’s grandmother Princess Somdej Phra Srinagarindra had built to partly resemble a Swiss chalet, as she lived in Switzerland for a while. With its well-manicured lawns and botanical gardens, this is one place that almost demands that one pays it a visit when in the region. (www.doitung.org)   

9.      Learn About Thai Yantra Tattoos
Visit the tiny village of Samnak an hour outside Chiang Mai, where you will meet Nikom, who was previously a monk as well. As part of a curated Airbnb Experiences tour, he will share with you the different patterns and meaning behind each ancient geometric, animal and deity designs of traditional Thai Yantra Tattoos. (www.airbnb.is/experiences/223773)

10.  Make Your Own Herbal ball

As part of a rather unusual and interesting Chiang Mai Airbnb Experiences session, Kanokwan—a renound Thai massage specialist—will not just share more about the usefulness of the Thai herbal ball—that contains various medicinal herbs, oils and spices—but she will also show you how to make one yourself and administer a traditional Thai massage. (www.airbnb.co.in/experiences/220243)

(An edited version of this article appeared on 15 July 2018 in Travel + Leisure, India and South Asia http://travelandleisureindia.in/10-bragworthy-experiences-in-chiang-mai/) 

The Foraging Rage

While foraging for produce has been a buzz word in the culinary world for the last couple of years, for the nature-reliant Swedes it has always been an intrinsic part of their lives. Discovering the finer nuances of foraging, Raul Dias also comes across a bunch of Swedish chefs who have made it their life’s mission to champion this trend with their cooking

(This article appeared in the July 2018 issue of the The Man magazine, India) 

The Rubik's Cube Redux

(This piece appeared in the June-July-August 2018 issue of the Eat Stay Love magazine, India)

A-N-A-T-O-M-I-Z-E: Thai Yantra Tattoo

Yantra tattoo master Arjan Sompong working on a tattoo (coursesy Airbnb Experiences)

By Raul Dias

At first glance, there is nothing remotely ‘sacred’ about sleepy little Samnak, a small village about a 30 minutes-drive outside the city of Chiang Mai. Often regarded as Thailand’s cultural and spiritual bastion, this cool and easy-going city—nestled in the lush hills of Northern Thailand—is where travellers descend upon for a bit of respite after braving the urban chaos of Bangkok. But the last few years have seen tattoo enthusiasts flock to Samnak en masse to get inked with what is regarded as the most coveted tattoo one can get—a traditional Thai Yantra Tattoo.
Ever-curious and utterly fascinated by the world of tattoos, I signed up for an afternoon submerged in all things Yantra Tattoo on a recent trip to northern Thailand. Conducted by the recently launched Airbnb Experiences in Chiang Mai, that connects travellers like myself directly with artists and practitioners for immersive interactions, my host Nikom, a former monk led me into the ‘sanctum santorum’ of another monk-turned-tattoo master Arjan Sompong. Sitting like a resident deity himself on an altar-like stage, surrounded by idols and other religious ceremonial artifacts, the beatifically smiling master got down to explaining to me what exactly a Yantra Tattoo signifies.
While there are different types and patterns of traditional Thai Yantra Tattoos—with each one having a different meaning and purpose—they all feature ancient geometric symbols, animals or deity designs. These motifs are believed to offer protection to the wearer against bad luck and bestow upon them good fortune. But all this comes at a price. For the tattoo to truly work its magic, the recipient cannot drink alcohol on the day—both, before and after getting the tattoo. They are also expected to incorporate several lifestyle restrictions and changes post-tattooing for the rest of their life. Specifically, those pertaining to limiting alcohol consumption and calming down of the temperament.
And this is why it is only Sompong who decides which Yantra Tattoo suits you the most (from a narrowed down list, of course) according to your aura. All this, before he injects a mixture of indigenous Thai herbs and minerals along with commercial tattoo ink into the dermis with the help of a hand tapped foot-long steel tattoo needle. Yes, no commercial tattoo machines used here! And at the end of the session, the master recites a blessing mantra to seal in the tattoo’s efficacy.
A very important aspect that is to be stressed when speaking of a Yantra Tattoo, is the fact that it is as far removed for a decorative tattoo as possible. In fact, a certain type of Yantra Tattoo can only be done in its invisible form, where a mixture of black sesame seed oil and invisible tattoo ink is injected into the recipient’s dermis layer. The mantras imbued into the person are meant to protect them from all harm, without the tattoo being traceable at all.
Interestingly, as he was a monk in the past, Sompong still follows one of the most cardinal tenets of monkhood. And that is, no physical contact with the opposite sex. So, this means that according to his vows he cannot do a Yantra Tattoo for female guests.

(An edited version of this column first appeared in the 8th July 2018 issue of The Hindu newspaper's Sunday Magazine section on page 8 https://www.thehindu.com/todays-paper/tp-features/tp-sundaymagazine/thai-yantra-tattoo/article24363222.ece?utm_source=tp-sundaymagazine&utm_medium=sticky_footer)

Eating Out-Gurugram Style!

No longer relegated to merely being a satellite city of India’s capital New Delhi, Gurugram is one of the most happening places in the NCR with everything from a bustling business district to a dynamic eating out scene. Tapping into the latter, we bring you a serving of six such hotspots that each bestow onto this city some serious bragging rights as a newly-minted foodie haven.  

By Raul Dias

Amaranta
Pushing the culinary envelope further and further over the last few years with its unexpected pairings and presentations—all resulting in a thoroughly modern Indian dining experience—is Amaranta. This fine dining restaurant at The Oberoi Gurgaon is all about celebrating a menu that explores palates and pairings using authentic Indian flavours in a progressive way. Called the ‘play-ted menu’, here one encounters dishes like Indian Ocean lobster sorshe served with an imaginative avocado tartare, the banana leaf sea bass, pumpkin cappuccino or perhaps the chickpea flour cake with onion fritters that takes Indian cuisine to a whole new level. And the setting is no less experimental with its floor-to-ceiling windows that let in natural light and overlook a reflection pool that runs alongside the restaurant.

The Oberoi Gurgaon, 443, Udyog Vihar, Phase V, Gurugram
Tel: 0124- 2451234

Elemenopi
This onomatopoeic sounding restaurant with a wildly eclectic menu offering is the latest global gastronomical venture in Gurugram’s swanky One Horizon Centre. It takes you on a gourmet voyage across countries less travelled. With its tagline ‘Belly Well-Travelled’, this rather experimental dining place is full of exciting offerings for lovers of good food and drinks. The menu cruises around over 10 exotic countries and brings to you some of their iconic delicacies such as mahjouba, skampi na buzaru, cevapi and tuna Nicoise from Algeria, Croatia, Bosnia, and France respectively! Coming from the guys at the The Beer Café chain of restobars, Elemenopi’s prowess in the alco-beverage segment is imperative. It stocks more than 50 varieties of beers from more than 20 countries, apart from the largest collection of wines, cocktails, and other spirits in the city.

Plaza level, One Horizon Centre, DLF Phase 5, Gurugram
Tel: 0124-2575036

Pra Pra Prank
Occupying prime position at Gurugram’s restaurant ‘Ground Zero’—the DLF Cyber Hub—Pra Pra Prank caters to the palate of the comfort seeker and the gourmand alike. Claiming to be the first ‘Playful Brasserie’ in India, this three-month old restobar is all about a menu that is non-conformist and quirky, dotted with dishes that make it a delight for food lovers. From the modern take on universal favourites like karpao chicken fried rice to novel Asian delights like the rainbow sushi to interesting mains like the grilled whole lobster, and the pork belly skewers with kalonji raw mango relish, all are addictive and great accompaniments to innovative drinks like the Japanese negroni and the pop-corn flavoured prohibition pop up cocktail. All this, in a stylish, yet quirkily done up space that features a live sushi bar and an open kitchen.

Shop No. 24, DLF Cyber Hub, DLF Phase 2, Sector 24, Gurugram
Tel: +91-959996582/9599965292

Nagai
Nagai is Japanese for longevity. A Japanese restaurant with roots in Ibiza, this contemporary Japanese restaurant and sake bar is a recent addition to the Gurugram dining out scene. The cuisine here is essentially Japanese with signature dishes that combine Thai, Mediterranean and even Mexican influences. Start with Japanese inspired tapas that go from classic steamed edamame to crispy pork and aubergine skewers. The starters showcase Japanese classics like salmon and tuna tartar with vegan choices like caramelized lotus root with soya and sesame. Sushi being the signature at Nagai, indulge yourself with everything from himachi sashimi to maguro nigiri and uramaki rolls. Mains here are a procession of highly nuanced dishes like, a hearty Japanese curry chicken and even a few Thai dishes thrown in for good measure. But take some time and look at the well-done up space at Nagai. The walls of the restaurant reflect enthralling artwork by Fin DAC, an Irish urban street artist, based in London, who makes large murals of masked women with fashionable style, with an emphasis on their beauty.

#305, Ground Floor, Sector 29, Behind Pllazio Hotel, Gurugram
Tel: +91-9958022300

Prankster
Brimming with an unbridled feeling of youthful energy thanks to its campus like theme, the playful Prankster is a cool-n-casual first-storied restaurant to hang out at with a menu that’s anything but casual. The cuisine here is best described as ‘progressive nostalgic’ where the chefs attempt to fuse numerous indigenous dishes with contemporary techniques and a twist. Expect to find dishes like the choley kulche doughnut which is served with a gaajar achaar mousse, sambhar cappuccino and the nitro dahi bhalla savoury ice cream that not only evoke childhood memories but gives the diner of today a creative and innovative experience which one won’t forget in a hurry. Choose to spend your evening seated at one of the many campus zones like the library, the mixology lab, the amphitheatre or perhaps at the hostel room that is perfect for a private party with its bunker beds and study tables!

8-9-10, Sector 29, Main Market, Gurugram
Tel: 0124-4266653

Pirates of Grill
Just a few years old and already Pirates of Grill is proving to be a magnet for those seeking out a fine dining bar-be-que concept along with a full buffet. Imagine juicy, succulent grills cooking at your own table, and food that keeps coming until your tummy surrenders! Their innovative offerings at unbeatable prices, have made this family-style restaurant a runaway success in Gurugram. Here, one can choose from an assortment of international kabab delicacies and make your own bar-be-que at the table itself. The global cuisine buffet on offer here gives you an option to indulge yourself in around 16 starters, 12 main course dishes and a live dessert counter. One can also enjoy their signatures like the Brazilian Churasco and Moroccan grills along with the fiendishly popular skewered pineapple that’s both sweet and savoury at the same time.   

Shop No. 7-10, MGF Mega City Mall, MG Road, A Block, DLF Sector 28, Gurugram
Tel: 0124-4013333

(An edited version of this article first appeared in the July 2018 issue of  Go-Getter, the in-flight magazine of Go Airways) 

Muscat in a Day!

While it may not be very large, Muscat—the compact capital of the Sultanate of Oman has something for everyone. From shopping sprees and culture lessons to an abundance of sea-centric activities, this city has it all, and then some more...

By Raul Dias

If you look up the etymology of the word ‘Muscat’ you will find that it literally translates from Arabic to mean “place of anchorage”. And there couldn’t be a more apt way to describe this tiny, yet bustling capital city of the Sultanate of Oman that exudes a relaxed, small-town vibe despite having everything a dynamic modern-day city should have.
Established in 1793, today Muscat is the main metropolitan area of Oman and the most densely populated region that one third of the country’s two million people call home. A great place to set anchor and explore the rest of Oman at leisure, Muscat too has a lot to offer the traveller, however brief your stopover here is.
We bring you a few ways to get the most of your jaunt in this Middle Eastern coastal city:

Soak in the Souk
There’s no doubting the fact that one of the best ways to acquaint yourself to any Middle Eastern city is by sauntering down to the local marketplace called a souk. And Muscat is no different. The bustling Muttrah Souk, just off the meandering Corniche in Old Muscat is the perfect Ground Zero for a slice of local life. From the intricately decorated curved dagger called the khanjar that is the symbol of Oman and fragrant frankincense (see box)-selling stalls, to others peddling soft Pashmina shawls and colourful belushi dresses for women, this souk has it all. With its labyrinthine lanes and alleys, the souk is a treasure trove for souvenir hunters with its hundreds of shops selling multi-hued glass lamps, sheeshas and other metallic curios and trinkets like typically Omani pendants and lockets.

A dose of serenity at the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque
20,000 is the number of worshippers it can accommodate at one time. 1,122 is how many bulbs its eight tonne Swarovski crystal chandelier holds. And 1,700 million knots make up the Persian carpet that covers the floor of its main hall. As one of the largest mosques in the world, the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque is THE place to immerse yourself in serenity and peace. Opened in 2001, this edifice is hemmed in by four minarets which together with a fight—and larger—central minaret represent the five pillars of Islam. Truly a must-visit place in the city!

Scent’s Appeal
Let your olfactory senses lead you to the very well-appointed Amouage Perfume Factory in Rusayl for a heady dose of aromatherapy. Established over 25 years ago by the Omani Royal Family to revive and maintain the art of ancient Arabian Perfumery, the factory is ‘Ground Zero’ for lovers of fine fragrance. Here you can see how essential oils and traditional ingredients like silver, ambergris and myrrh and others like tonka beans and lavender amalgamate to create magic. You can even get a customised perfumed made here just for yourself with the formula kept aside for future orders!

Omani Heritage Gallery
Shop with a conscience at the wonderful Omani Heritage Gallery that’s located in the Shatti Al Qurm. Part of an NGO that supports local Omani artisans working in traditional crafts, the gallery is where you can pick up some high-quality products including jewellery, tribal weaving, woven baskets and copper articles. But remember, unlike the Muttrah Souk where bargaining is the norm, this is a fixed price place with all profits going directly to the artisans. 

Do the Museum Circuit
For a city as small as Muscat, it sure packs in a mighty punch with its world-class museums. Start off with a visit to the National Museum—located bang opposite the ornate Al Alam Royal Palace in Old Muscat—for its well-curated exhibits of everything from displays of jewellery and traditional costumes to the mighty Omani dhow sailboat that occupies prime position. Don’t miss checking out the 8^th century letter believed to have been written by the Prophet Mohammed to the rulers of Oman, spreading the Islamic faith to the country. For a better understanding of Franco-Omani relations, pop into the Bait Al Faransi museum that is housed in the former residence of the French Consul in Muscat. Other superb museums include the Sultan’s Armed Forces Museum in the Ruwi neighbourhood and the wonderful Natural History Museum where you can uncover the Sultanate’s history in fossils with the ‘Oman Through Time’ exhibit. 

Encounters of the Sea Kind!
With an enviable coastline, Muscat offers a plethora of aquatic activities for you to enjoy. The Arabian Sea around Muscat has no strong currents, making both diving and snorkelling both fun an easy for divers of all levels. Fancy the more armchair kind of sea encounters? Sign up for a half day glass bottom boat tour leaving from the marina at Sidab in Old Muscat every morning at 8 am. The 22-seater boat cruises along the Muscat coastline, affording you sights of not just beautiful corals and other marine life, but also of the rather playful humpback dolphins and mighty whales that glide through the azure waters.  

A Sun Worshipper’s Paradise
With its soft, golden sand, the city’s Qurm Beach is one of the Sultanate’s best public beaches and a great place to unwind after a hectic day’s sight-seeing. Located a stone’s throw away from the business district of Qurm Junction, this beach along Al Shati Street is particularly popular with locals at sunset. The promenade that runs alongside it makes for a pleasant evening stroll with stops made for some cooling iced mint lemonade called limonana bought at one of the many fruit juice stalls.

Night Out at the Opera
Boasting of one of the best opera houses in the world, Muscat’s magnum opus of an opera house stands proud near the seaside dunes of Al Qurm. Spanning across 80,000 sq.m, the building reflects typically Omani Arabesque architecture with flourishes of European grandeur peeking through every now and then. The Grand Auditorium is where you will see the Sultan of Oman’s gilded private box. In the past, the Royal Opera House has hosted world greats like Diana Krall, Youssou N’Dour and the celebrated Mariinsky Ballet who have all performed to a sold-out house.       

The khanjar and frankincense: Two Pillars of Omani Culture
* Tucked into ornate belts, the traditional curved dagger called the khanjar has been worn for centuries by Oman men as a defensive weapon and represents bravery and valour. Today considered the national symbol of the Sultanate, you will see its iconic shape on the country’s flag and printed on currency notes.
* The treasured resin harvested from the Boswelia Sacra tree found in Oman’s southern Dhofar region, frankincense is an inalienable part of the Omani identity which you will encounter all over the Sultanate. Omanis particularly like to use it as a perfume and you will surely recognise its distinct fragrance on the many hands that you shake or on entering shops and restaurants.

(An edited version of this article first appeared in the July 2018 issue of Jetwings Domestic in-flight magazine of Jet Airways http://www.jetairways.com/EN/IN/jetexperience/magazines.aspx)

24 hrs in… MANCHESTER

The world’s first industrialised city, a city that worships its sport and a metropolis that’s got a throbbing pulse rate, Manchester has a list of epithets that try their best to define it. A day about town, however abbreviated, is a fantastic way to get orientated to this dynamic city, neatly tucked away in England’s northwest.  

  

By Raul Dias

Manchester Cathedral
If you happen to be in the city on a Sunday morning, prepare to hear the almost deafening tolling of this magnificent cathedral’s 10 bells during mass service. As the seat of the Bishop of Manchester and the city’s parish church, this gothic edifice is on Victoria Street, slap bang in the middle of the city centre. With its tall bell tower, stained-glass windows and intricately carved wooden benches and pews, the cathedral is one of the most beautiful in all of the UK. Interestingly, the cathedral has a church within a church, when it was discovered that the same spot housed a Saxon church dating back to 700AD. Today, all that remains of its previous avatar is an ‘angel stone’—a small carving of an angel with a scroll that’s been preserved with other minor relics of its past.

Old Trafford
Home to one of the world’s most iconic football clubs—Manchester United—since 1910, the equally popular Old Trafford football stadium is hallowed ground for all die-hard footie fans. But even if you’re not one, this stadium’s sheer volume, with a capacity to comfortably contain a whopping 74,994 people at any given time, will leave you speechless. Partially destroyed during the German blitzkrieg of December 1940, the stadium was painstakingly reconstructed to its original glory by an army of fans and supporters two years later. Today, on non-match days, one can purchase a spot on the many tours that the stadium has on offer. Now, here’s one piece of interesting Old Trafford trivia: they even allow fans’ ashes to be sprinkled on the pitch!

The Quays
Bestowing a certain, futuristic Venice-like cache onto a small section of Greater Manchester are the Salford Quays, 15 minutes by tram from Manchester city centre. Better known simply as ‘The Quays’ this is a great place to just ‘hang-out’ at. With everything from impromptu live theatre on the weekends in summer to trendy restaurants and high-end shopping opportunities, there’s a lot this modern waterfront development destination has on offer. Football and cricket fans can pick up merchandise from the well-appointed Manchester United and Lancashire County Cricket Club official superstores that can be found in The Quays.    

Manchester Museum
Done up in the neo-gothic style of architecture, this museum is a rare one. In that, it is one of the few museums in the world to be owned by a university. In its case, the University of Manchester which established it in 1888. With galleries that range from ancient and natural history to ones documenting Manchester’s remarkable industrial prowess, the museum showcases over four million objects. Acquired in 2004, Stan, the reproduction model of a fossilised Tyrannosaurus rex is one of the museum’s most popular exhibits, as is the relief of Pepi II from the temple of Menes and Isis in Qift, Egypt.

Northern Quarter
With its profusion of quirky bars and restaurants, this boho-chic neighbourhood of Manchester—wedged between Piccadilly station and Victoria station—is where the hip-n-trendy Mancunians go to party. During the day, casual diners like Alabama’s All American Eatery offer great brunch deals, while at night the more sophisticated vibe of places like Cane & Grain and 63 Degrees kicks in. But it’s not all about food and drink here. The Northern Quarter has an excellent selection of art galleries, boutiques and salons to indulge at.   

National Football Museum
Ensconced in a shimmery glass façade, this free museum located in Manchester’s city centre may be one of the city’s newest attractions having been set up only in 2012. But it’s fast gaining a reputation of being a repository of all things wonderfully football, spread over four floors. One of the most popular exhibits is The Global Game on level one that’s dedicated to world football and includes the ball that was played with in the first ever world cup final.   

Castlefield
Imagine being at THE place where the city of Manchester got its name? Yes, Castlefield is at the very heart of the city where the Roman fort of Mancunium once stood proudly in defence against the marauding Celtic tribe of the Brigantes. Today, this largely traffic-free artsy haven is where stressed out Mancunians go to wind down and chill out at. This, thanks to the fact that in 1982, the area was designated as the UK’s first Urban Heritage Park. Pop into the Castlefield Gallery, a contemporary art space that hosts works of both established and upcoming artists many of whom study at the Manchester Art School which partners with the gallery. 

Sea Life Manchester
Line up at 10am outside its mighty doors and enter an aquatic paradise where you can spend an entire day being enchanted by the creatures of the deep. The aquarium plays host to over 5,000 species of sea life, ranging from great white sharks to the more benign-looking seahorses. As one of Sea Life Manchester’s newest attractions that was launched this year, Liar of the Giant Crab is where you can encounter the 3 meters-long Japanese spider crabs in all their spiny glory.

Heaton Park
The perfect setting for a typically English picnic on a balmy day, this free municipal park is Manchester’s de facto ‘green lung’, if you may! With a coverage area of over 600 acres, the park houses an 18-hole golf course, a boating lake and even its own tramway circuit. And if you’re lucky, you can even find yourselves attending a free summer concert, movie screening or play on its greens as Heaton Park has hosted some open-air theatre productions including Shakespearean treats like Midsummer Night’s Dream and Macbeth in the recent past.

Museum of Science and Industry
Perhaps one of the best places in all of Manchester that pays rich tribute to the city’s industrial past, is the Museum of Science and Industry (MSI). With no entry fee charged, visitors are free to have a wander around its many galleries that include the permanent Air, Space and Power Halls, the Revolution Manchester and the Textiles Gallery that tells you why Manchester also had another nickname in the 19^th century—Cottonopolis. Interestingly, the MSI is housed in the same site where the world’s first railway station called Manchester Liverpool Road was located. What’s more is that, every weekend and public holiday, the museum offers you the chance to sit back and enjoy a short ride in a train lead by a good old-fashioned steam engine!

Detours

Beyond Manchester

Where About 64 km northwest from Manchester
Why While it may seem just like any other English sea side resort town with its salt water taffy kiosks and weather-beaten wooden board walk, Blackpool has a distinct charm of its own. Perfect for a day trip, this town that hugs the Irish Sea with all its might is home to the famous Blackpool Tower, the much more diminutive doppelganger of Paris’ grand Eiffel Tower. Also located on the sea-facing Promenade is the legendary Madame Tussauds with waxworks of famous British celebrities like Ed Sheeran and David Beckham. And if all that beach action simply isn’t enough, Blackpool has more. Pleasure Beach is one the UK’s most popular amusement parks with its two iconic roller coaster rides—Big One and Valhalla to get your adrenaline racing!  

 

Where About 47 km southwest from Manchester
Why Replete with its black and white Tudor-style, half-timber buildings and cobblestoned walkways, the charming Roman town of Chester is the only completely walled city in all of Britain. Chester Cathedral with its medieval past and hundreds of years of history is the perfect orientation to this town with its Victorian organ and its mighty tower that you can climb via 200 steps. And speaking of towers, make sure to visit the Shot Tower, which is the only surviving tower of its kind that dates back from the 18th century, where lead shots for guns were made the old way by dropping molten lead from the top of the tower. A wonderful way to see Chester is by taking a Roman-style walking tour that’s led by a ‘Roman soldier’ who’ll regale you with spooky tales and even guide you on a boat ride down the River Dee that languidly courses its way through Chester.

Where About 139 km north from Manchester
Why With its fecund natural beauty and bucolic surroundings, the Lake District is the perfect getaway from a city like Manchester into the lap of Mother Nature. Magical little towns like Windermere, Ambleside, and Bowness-on-Windermere have everything you’re looking for—from quaint English countryside cottages to tiny little gingerbread shops. No surprise then that the Lake District had such a profound impact of the works of literary greats like William Wordsworth and Beatrix Potter. In fact, celebrating the latter’s life and works is the wonderfully appointed The World of Beatrix Potter Attraction in Windermere where all your favourite characters like Peter Rabbit and Mrs Tiggy-winkle come alive in a picture-postcard-perfect setting that’s nothing short of magical.   

- By Raul Dias

(An edited version of this article first appeared in the July 2018 issue of Jetwings Domestic in-flight magazine of Jet Airways http://www.jetairways.com/EN/IN/jetexperience/magazines.aspx)