A Decadent ‘Spa’rty

From volcanic stone massages and gold dust scrubs to exclusive pampering rituals for the discerning gent, Indian spas are upping the ante with a range of decadent and ultra-exclusive treatments. RAUL DIAS bring you a roundup of a few such hedonistic havens around the country that promise to leave the ‘Urbane Man’ rested and relaxed, while ensconcing him in the lap of luxury!

Kaya Kalp – The Royal Spa at ITC Grand Chola, Chennai
As one of the largest spas in the state of Tamil Nadu, the plush, 1,781 square feet Kaya Kalp –The Royal Spa, that is a part of ITC’s signature spa brand is a haven like no other! Here, the healing stones, music and therapists’ hands are all effectively integrated into an experience that is deep and meaningful to each person at an almost spiritual level. Each of the 12 treatment rooms—including a couple’s suite, two Ayurvedic suites and two Thai massage suites, are kitted out with luxurious accents and amenities to keep you pampered all through your therapy. Interestingly, the spa recognizes the vagaries of the fast-paced life of today by offering its range of express therapies for those, to whom time is a precious commodity! So, while each and every one of these five express therapies—including the very effective Kaya Kalp Mini Indulgence—on offer may be just 20 minutes-long, they pack in a mighty, relaxing punch.

Top Treatment
Indian Rose & Cardamom Salt Glow (Rs 3,000+taxes/40min): This luxurious body scrub experience—that is part of the Imperial Chola Ceremonies range of therapies—employs the use of the “Queen of Spices”, Indian cardamom, which is truly unique in aroma and a great purifier when enriched with sea salt and rose essence that helps in cooling the skin.

Iridium Spa at St. Regis, Mumbai
Aptly named in honour of the Greek mythological goddess, Iris and also for the rare, silvery-white metal—Iridium—this spa at the stunning St. Regis, Mumbai is a rare, luxurious cocoon located slap bang in the middle of ‘Maximum City’. Creating a much-needed ambiance of tranquility and relaxation, this idyllic sanctuary is THE place to rejuvenate and rebalance the mind and body. Exclusive to St. Regis, the Iridium Spa reflects the signature St. Regis refinement and unrivalled attention to detail. The spa houses nine serene therapy rooms (of which six are equipped with a luxurious steam and bathtub facility), including a luxurious Couple’s Suite for a more intimate setting, with internationally trained therapists and custom-blended elixirs to offer a bespoke transformative experience. Gentlemen, don’t miss the specially designed quartet of treatments for today’s men who recognize the power and importance of grooming.

Top Treatment
Gold Body Therapy with Cane Sugar (Price on request/90min): This ultra-decadent treatment involves an invigorating exfoliation using a gold-sugar scrub, made using fair-trade cane sugar to refine the texture of the skin by eliminating dead cells. The final touch is a massage with fragrant oil enriched with gold particles.

Rait Spa at Suryagarh, Jaisalmer
Named for the sand that seems to be everywhere in Jaisalmer—Rajasthan’s ‘Golden City’ as it were—this spa is part of the majestic Suryagarh, a hotel that encapsulates the regal spirit and romance that defines this land to the hilt. The Rait Spa wing of the hotel itself is a wonderful mélange of the ancient heritage architecture style with its intricately carved jaali screens and mother-of- pearl inlaid marble and sandstone flooring and modern fittings in its five therapy rooms like steam cubicles and in-built whirlpools. The spa garden flanking the structure is an oasis of calm, so imperative for post-therapy ‘blissing-out’ amidst birdsong and the gurgling of the ornamental fountains. Besides a host of traditional treatments, Rait uses IMRS (Intelligent Magnetic Resonance System), a health care system developed in Germany to balance your magnetic field thereby subtly adjusting bodily cadences and improving overall metabolism. These electromagnetic pulses incorporate bio feedback and use colour and music therapy to work on all four levels of brain wave activity, ensuring better cell organisation and promoting overall wellbeing.

Top Treatment
Shell and Stone Massage (Rs 4,400+taxes/1.5hrs): Extricating the healing properties of tiger-striped seashells from the Philippine islands with volcanic stones, this therapy improves blood circulation by draining toxins and improving metabolism. Heated sea shells with lava powder are employed by the therapists to give you an experience that masterfully blends the healing properties of naturally occurring elements with expert massage techniques like the long strokes and deep-kneading techniques to help release accumulated tensions.

Shillim Spa at The Hilton Shillim Estate Retreat & Spa, Shillim
Perched precariously atop the Western Ghats in the village of Shilimb—an hour’s drive up the winding mountainous roads from Lonavala, this verdant retreat has one of the largest and most comprehensive spa facilities in Asia with 17 treatment rooms, each offering holistic and Ayurvedic practices in a unique and magical environment that is supposed to help you establish healthy habits for life. This multi-award winning spa encompasses 70 acres and offers a range of exquisite treatments, and also comes with its own meditation cave and a relaxation center, as well as a salon and yoga pavilion. The spa is based on the four principles of the conservation and strengthening of life, sustenance of health, healing of the ‘whole’ person and finally the celebration of the gift of life!

Top Treatment
Walnut and Asparagus Body Scrub (Rs 4,500+taxes/55min): This body-firming spa scrub experience uses walnut paste mixed with the Ayurvedic herb gotu kola (centella asiatica). Both elements, known for their medicinal properties, help in body-firming and skin exfoliation. The cumulative stimulating and astringent effect is said to remove excess of water stagnation. The scrub is followed by an asparagus body mask that further helps in tightening and firming the skin, as asparagus is known to be loaded with nutrients such as vitamins A, C, E and K, fiber, folate and minerals.

The Elevation Spa at The Tamara, Coorg
One of the plush resort’s newest additions, The Elevation is more than just a mere spa. A 100-year-old plantation bungalow forms the core of this tranquil oasis that has six treatment rooms and a temperature controlled pool just beyond to luxuriate about in post treatment. The spa’s forte is a range of Ayurveda-based treatments using edible ingredients like coffee, fresh coconut, sugar and wild rice, besides the de rigueur Western-style massages and scrubs. As The Tamara, Coorg is part of a functioning coffee estate, the Signature Coffee Therapy is a must-experience. The ritual begins with a scrub made from plantation-grown ground up coffee beans that are loaded with natural antioxidants that work wonders in revitalising and nourishing the skin and thus leaving one in a balanced and relaxed state. And that’s just how you will feel after an hour’s worth of pampering. And not to mention, smelling like a freshly-made cappuccino!

Top Treatment
Kalpa Anubhava Coconut Indulgence (Rs 6,250/2hrs): This über-indulgent two-hour session begins with a freshly grated coconut and sugar scrub, followed by a relaxing massage using cold-pressed coconut and cucumber oil. This ritual is said to stimulate the nerves and blood vessels beneath the skin, while calming muscle tension. Designed to re-activate circulation and the flow of energy, it ends with a continuous stream of warmed oil poured onto your head to bring a dose of calm back into your stressed-out existence. 

(An edited version of this article first appeared in the December 2017 issue of Urbane magazine)

Freakshow!

Much more than just the mere sum of their over-the-top parts, freakshakes truly are milkshakes on steroids and a worldwide trend sugar lovers can’t seem to get enough of.

By Raul Dias

Riding the crest of everything fashionably foodie and au courant in the world of cuisine, thanks to its home-grown reality shows like Masterchef Australia and for its penchant for producing a virtual army of superstar chefs like Peter Gilmore, Adriano Zumbo and the irrepressible Neil Perry, Australia is responsible for the genesis of the mega food trend of the freakshake. Yes, around two years ago, in July 2015 to be more precise, akin to something straight out of science fiction, a ‘monster’ was created at Pâtissez, a rather nondescript bakery and café in Canberra.
Soon London fell for its charms with the now-legendary Molly Bakes cafe in Dalston coming up with totally bonkers versions of the freakshake with everything from lemon and raspberry tartlets, and honeycomb festooning overflowing giant milkshake glasses. And just like some sort of 21^st Century rara avis, the freakshake went viral, amassing a cult-like following thanks to social media, given its tremendous Instagram-worthy appeal.

The Anatomy of a Freakshake
For the uninitiated, this behemoth of a milkshake truly is the mother of all shakes, making for some gloriously messy…and not to mention indulgent satisfaction! A monstrous drink-meets-sundae-meets-dessert, a freakshake gets its name from its rather over-the-top construction methods and its often outlandishly wacky components that make it much more than the mere sum of its parts. 
Poured into everything from the now passé mason jars to the very on trend beer mugs, a freakshake is layered with a cornucopia of treats like heavy cream, bits of cake, pretzels and doughnuts among other confectionary specimens. All this is then drizzled with lashings of sauce, with a fistful of candies and sprinkles thrown in for good measure. But hang on, that’s not all. Aforementioned bits of cake, pretzels and doughnuts find themselves once again taking centre stage as they are haphazardly glued on—with sugar syrup, frosting, jam or peanut butter—to the rim and sides of the glass, giving the freakshake its freaky appearance.

Who’s The Freakiest of Them All?
Forget the maxim ‘less is more’, for in the OTT world of the freakshake ‘more is certainly more’! A couple of months ago, to mark the release of Riverdale season one on DVD, Warner Bros UK and Maxwell’s Covent Garden in London teamed up to create themed freakshakes each based on an Archie comic book character. So, while The Bubblegum Betty freakshake is reflective of Betty’s bubbly personality and is made from a pink bubble gum thick shake topped with whipped cream, candy floss, marshmallows, love hearts and rainbow candy, The Fall from Grace mirrors Veronica’s dark side with an Oreo thick shake, chocolate sauce, and a whole Oreo cookie sandwich as its components.
However, taking things a bit too far, Heliot Steak House in London is believed to have recently added a rather bizarre sounding range of slider freakshakes to their menu. These oddballs include a lobster and avocado slider that sits atop a passion fruit milkshake and a roasted field mushroom, pepper and courgette slider, which is paired with a strawberry milkshake. ‘nuff said!

The Desi Take
Not to be left behind, India too has cottoned on to the freakshake trend churning out (pun intended!) various iterations, many of which reflecting the nations obsession with sugar and more so traditional Indian sweets or mithai. The Mithai Freakshake by Charcoal in Mumbai (see recipe) is one such example that almost contains a virtual sweet shop in and on it! Made with kheer, jalebis, motichoor ladoos and the celebration favourite—gulaab jamun, this diet-busting freakshake references India to the hilt and is not one for the faint hearted. “A freakshake is not just a shake but a phenomenon,” says the Mithai freakshake’s creator, Chef Areez Patel. “This trend is here to last as it has immense scope of experimentation in India. My strong urge to give traditional Indian desserts a freaky twist, making them a multi-sensory delight has resulted in this freakshake that’s a combination of my favourites from Indian desserts.”
Giving their freakshake a vegan twist by using dairy-free cream, The Sassy Spoon in Mumbai and Pune pay homage to an American lunch box classic the peanutbutter and jelly sandwich with their PBJ Vegan Monster Shake (see recipe). “We’ve retained the look and feel of a freakshake, while making it a little bit healthier and vegan friendly,” says Mixologist Pranav Mody, who came up with this version that seeks to go easy on the post-indulgence guilt trip.
But guilty or not, the freakshake phenomenon world-wide is far from done and dusted with. For we predict, as the saying goes “the best (and most bizarre) is yet to come!”

India’s Freakiest Freakshakes!

·         Ferrero Rocher, Kit Kat and Brownie Points freakshakes at Morello’s, Gurugram

·         Banana Nutella, Double Chocolate Fudge, Cadbury Dairy Milk Silk and Vanilla Oreo freakshakes at AMPM Cafe & Bar, Delhi

·         Magnum Choco, Nutella Doughnut and Nutella Mars freakshakes at The Fusion Kitchen, Mumbai

·         Red Velvet, Blue Cheesecake and Lemon Crumble freakshakes at Three Chicks and A Bear, Mumbai

·         Big Bang and Cookie Monster freakshakes at Brik Oven, Bengaluru

·         Belgian Chocolate Cupcake freakshake at Guilt Trip, Bengaluru

·         Waffle Wagon Freakshake at The Chocolate Heaven, Chennai

·         Cookie Monster, Choco Peanut Butter and Banana Caramel freakshakes at Mad Over Freakshakes, Hyderabad

·         Mega Brownie KitKat freakshake at Freak Shake Bro, Hyderabad

·         Blueberry Cheesecake Deconstructed, Mocha Brownie and Mushy Oreo freakshakes at Velvetiine, Kolkata

·         Cotton Candy Berry freakshake at The Street at The Park Hotel, Kolkata

Get Your Freak On
Here are two recipes that show you how to make your very own freakshake at home.

The PBJ Vegan Monster Shake

Ingredients:
1 tbsp Strawberry Jam
180 ml Dairy-free Pouring Cream     
45 ml Peanut Butter   
3/4 Banana                 
1 tbsp Flax Seeds       
Dairy-free Whipped Cream
Melba Toast
Ice Cubes

Method:
1) In a blender add: Strawberry jam, pouring cream, peanut butter, banana, 1/2 tbsp of flax seeds and 2 cubes of ice and blend.
2) Rim a tall milkshake glass with peanut butter and then add a few flax seeds.
3) Spread some peanut butter on the melba toast.
4) Pour the shake into the glass.
5) Top with whipped cream.
6) Stick the melba toast with peanut butter onto the whipped cream.
7) Put a bit of strawberry jam on top of the whipped cream.
8) Sprinkle a few more flax seeds on top and serve with a candy-striped straw.

--Recipe courtesy: Pranav Mody, Mixologist from The Sassy Spoon, Mumbai and Pune

Mithai Freak Shake

Ingredients:
125 gm Poha (flat beaten rice flakes)
375 gm Milk
65 gm Sugar
5 gm Pistachios
3 gm Almonds
A pinch Cardamom Powder
30-40 strands Saffron
9 pcs Mini Gulaab Jamuns
2 pcs Small Crisp Jalebi
4 pcs Motichoor Ladoo
100 gm Whipped Cream
25 gm Milk
5 ml Sugar Syrup
1 small sheet Silver Leaf

Method:
1) For the saffron cream: Whip cream to soft peaks while you heat the 25 gm milk and put half the saffron in it (around 15 strands). Let it sit for 5 mins. After cool add to the cream and whip till mixes well. Put in the ref.
2) For the kheer: Soak the poha in water for 5 mins. Boil the milk in a pan. Reduce flame to low and simmer. Add the soaked poha. Add sugar and stir well until fully dissolved. Switch off the flame and add cardamom powder. Add 4 gulaab jamuns and blend it well. Let it cool.
3) To assemble: Take a large beer mug and crush the motichoor ladoo and put it at the bottom of the glass (leave some for garnish). Put some kheer into it. Put 4 gulaab jamuns, pressing a few on the outside of the glass. Pour more kheer till just below the rim of the glass. Pipe the saffron cream on the top of the glass to a point. Brush one inch of the outer side of the glass with sugar syrup. Stick crushed pistachios on the sugar syrup. Sprinkle motichoor ladoo, almonds, pistachios and saffron on the cream. Sit the jalebi and gulaab jamun on top of the cream and cover with silver leaf. Serve with a long spoon.

--Recipe courtesy: Chef Areez Patel of Charcoal, Mumbai

(An edited version of this article first appeared in the December 2017 issue of Jetwings Domestic in-flight magazine of Jet Airways https://www.jetairways.com/EN/DE/JetExperience/magazines.aspx) 

48 Hours in Stockholm

From its ancient Viking lineage to its cutting-edge modern ‘Scandie’ style quotient—both of which are on ample display—Stockholm truly is a dynamic city. Add to this a much-celebrated culinary scene, and what you have on hand are the ingredients for a perfect two-day tryst with the Swedish capital!

By Raul Dias

Quick question: How many times have you heard the comparative moniker ‘Venice of the east/west/north/south’ being bandied about by over-enthusiastic tour guides on your travels when describing any self-respecting, waterway-saturated city? Well, in the case of Stockholm, there truly couldn’t be a more apt descriptor. Made up of 14 islands that form part of the archipelago where Lake Mälaren meets the Baltic Sea, it is this warren of narrow canals and other water conduits—all forded over by magnificent bridges—that give Stockholm a fantastical ‘waterwold’ look and feel.
From its Viking history-imbued museums and grand edifices to its bustling markets and fecund parks, Sweden’s capital city sure knows how to put on a spectacular show. Be it glorious, sun-drenched summers or crisp, burnished gold-hued autumns, it’s always a good time to be in Stockholm.
And it is also at the very center of the global food revolution known as ‘The New Nordic Cuisine’ with its emphasis on ethics, health, quality and sustainability. At the vanguard of this development are a number of Stockholm chefs who have transformed the city into a world-renowned destination for food tourism and lifted the entire food scene in both Stockholm and Sweden on the whole.
All this, making for a choc-a-bloc 48 hours to truly let the Stockholm vibe seep into your very being!  

Day 1

9.30 A.M.
JOIN THE QUEUE FOR A RIDE DOWN HISTORY AT THE VASA MUSEUM
Brave the morning queues and prepare to be blown away by the sheer scale and grandeur of one of Stockholm’s, nay Scandinavia’s greatest calling cards aka. The Vasa Museum. Despite housing just one major relic, the mighty Viking ship that gives it its name—The Vasa, this museum is worth the trouble it takes to get in. Just ask the over one million people that visit it every year!
The only preserved 17^th Century ship in the world, the 69-meter-long warship sank 20-minutes into its maiden voyage in the middle of the Stockholm harbour in 1628, and was salvaged 333 years later in 1961. For nearly half a century the ship has been slowly, deliberately and painstakingly restored to a state approaching its original glory. Though there are 10 different exhibitions around the ship to tell you about life on board the ship, its scale is best appreciated once you leave the museum, as the three masts on the roof outside the museum show the height of the ship’s original masts.

12.00 P.M.
BRUNCH LIKE THE LOCALS AT NYSTEKT STRÖMMINGVAGNEN
A virtual Stockholm institution, this small herring wagon in Södermalm Square has been dishing out freshly caught fish in its myriad preparations for more than two decades. For a true-blue Stockholmer style brunch, order the skåning which is a portion of herring served open face sandwich style on dense rye bread. This is then topped with Spanish red onion, fresh dill and mustard. Chase this with a tall glass of lingondricka which is a refreshing soft drink made from the Swedish national favourite—the lingonberry.

2.00 P.M.
WATER TREAT!
One of the best ways to see Stockholm is by taking a boat tour along its placid waterways. And a much-recommended way to do that is by securing a spot for yourself in the Under the Bridges tour that departs from the Stadshuset dock. This two-hour journey charts a course under twelve bridges and even passes through the lock that connects Lake Mälaren with the Baltic Sea. All this, as the boat gently glides by the various neighbourhoods of Stockholm affording you views of the inner city, the Old Town, the islands of Södermalm, Lilla and Stora Essingen, the new, skyscraper-ridden area of Hammarby Sjöstad.

4.30 P.M.
TAKE IN THE FRAGRANCE AT ROSENDALS TRÄDGÅRD
As much as it is ‘blue’ city thanks to all those canals and waterways, Stockholm is also refreshingly green. And that’s not surprising, since more than a third of the city is made up of parks and gardens. And the most fecund of these is Rosendals Trädgård. Situated on the island of Djurgården, on the grounds of King Oscar I’s 19th century palace, this garden which means ‘rose valley’ in Swedish, houses both a rose garden and a fruit orchard. It can be reached by ferry whose dock is a 15-minute stroll from the garden’s gates. It also houses a charming little café that serves some of the most scrumptious kanelbulle or cinnamon rolls which are perfect for the traditional Swedish afternoon coffee break called fika.  

6.00 P.M.
RETAIL THERAPY AT DROTTNINGGATAN
From the home-spun Swedish brands like the ubiquitous H&M to the other popular high street brands, there can be no better place than Drottninggatan in the heart of Stockholm to find exactly what you’re looking for. Åhlens City, right at the corner of Drottninggatan and Klarabergsgatan, is one of the best department stores in the city, with not just an excellent selection of fashion but also books, homewares, makeup, and a whole lot more.

8.00 P.M.
DINE ON SWEDISH-JAPANESE FUSION CUISINE AT TAK
With the fusion of Swedish and Japanese cuisines as her hallmark, Chef Frida Ronge has been the recipient of prestigious awards such as the “Rising Star of the Year” by White Guide 2013. Her brand-new restaurant, bar and terrace TAK which opened in April 2017 at Brunkebergstorg in central Stockholm boasts of a 1,000 sq m space, while giving you an amazing view over Stockholm’s rooftops. Making your dinner of dishes like Arctic char with daikon and soy sauce-cured salmon with trout roe, ginger and pickled Swedish turnip a truly memorable one.

Day 2

8.00 A.M.
VISIT THE GRAND SALUHALL
More commonly known as Saluhall, the Östermalm food hall is one place you simply have to tick off your list of Stockholm icons to visit. Though the original building which was built in 1888 is currently under renovation (till its re-opening in 2018), the temporary market, housed in a modern blonde wood structure bang opposite the old one is a treasure trove of fish, meat, fruits, vegetables and cheeses, among other edible products. Speaking of which, why not breakfast at one of its many restaurants like Lisa Elmqvist that serve everything from cured salmon called gravlax to traditional Swedish dishes like smörgåsen sandwiches on crisp bread called knäckebröd that are buttered, with toppings such as hard cheese, cold cuts, caviar and messmör which is a sweet spread made from butter and whey?

10.00 A.M.
GROOVE YOUR WAY THOUGH THE ABBA MUSEUM
No trip to Sweden can ever be complete without paying homage in some way or form to the legendary 70s, Swedish-born musical quartet of ABBA. The interactive museum is perhaps unlike anything you’ve ever seen before, with not just a permanent exhibition that is full of ABBA memorabilia like stage outfits, instruments, gold records and awards, but also affording you the opportunity to take center stage. The interactive experience here invites you to sing, dance, mix music and try out virtual stage outfits. You can also record your performance and download it from the museum’s homepage with the help of your ticket. Get, set…groove!

1.00 P.M.
TAKE A DETOUR TO IKEA
This one is for those who can’t get enough of the cutting edge Swedish design movement. And at the very vortex of this revolution is IKEA—the furniture and home décor chain store that defines the quintessential minimalistic ‘Scandie’ style. An hourly free shuttle bus service departing from outside Stockholm’s central train station takes you on a 20-minute ride to the world’s largest IKEA superstore on the outskirts of the city, where you can not only shop for your home, but also tuck into a lunch of the brand’s famed Swedish meatballs served with dill potatoes and lingonberry jam. And when you’re all done, simply hop back onto the shuttle for a free ride back into town!

5.00 P.M.
PAY HOMAGE TO OLD STOCKHOLM AT GAMLA STAN
Since its foundations were laid in 1252, Stockholm’s Old Town, Gamla Stan has been and continues to be one of Europe’s largest and best preserved medieval city centers. No great surprise then that it is a quaint, atmospheric part of the city, steeped in history, with narrow streets and grand buildings. It is also home to the stunning Royal Palace where one can often spot the current Queen of Sweden waving out from her balcony. Built in the Neoclassical style, with a Neo-Baroque façade fronted by large Corinthian columns, the Riksdaghuset or the Swedish Parliament is on the tiny island of Helgeandsholmen and is very much worth a visit. As is the Baroque-style Royal Cathedral of Sweden, the Storkyrkan, which is the oldest church in Gamla Stan. First built as a chapel in the 12th century, it was rebuilt as a basilica after a fire destroyed it in the 14th century.

7.30 P.M.
PARTAKE IN A FINE DINE VEGETARIAN MEAL AT RUTABAGA
Make your way here on foot from the Old Town and prepare yourself for a real treat! But first, make sure to have made your dinner reservations way in advance at Rutabaga, the all-veg restaurant by Michelin starred Chef Mathias Dahlgren at the Grand Hôtel in Södra Blasieholmshamnen. As the driving forces behind the New Nordic Cuisine and it’s “dig-where-you-are” ideology, Dahlgren puts out a tasting menu that has everything from a simple, yet evocative ceviche of avocado and jalapeno to grilled asparagus with a romesco sauce. And for dessert, tuck into a healthy olive oil sorbet that is served with thin slices of radish. 

(An edited version of this article first appeared in the December 2017 issue of Jetwings Domestic in-flight magazine of Jet Airways https://www.jetairways.com/EN/DE/JetExperience/magazines.aspx) 

Café Un-Kind!

At best a place that placates those mid-movie munchies, Café Unwind at the newly renovated Metro INOX offers up a ho-hum selection of food and drinks

By Raul Dias

“Blessed is he who expects nothing, for he shall never be disappointed.” Now, that’s one maxim we wish we had chanted repeatedly to ourselves before building up our great expectations from the newly refurbished Metro cinema that now has the ‘INOX’ brand attached to its name. Not very much is different from its previous avatar. Not its gleaming, faux modern art deco interiors which seem to be just the same, save for a bit of additions here and there in the form of a glittering new chandelier and mirrored murals. Not it’s former 5-screen layout. Same. And certainly not its four, lobby-level snack counters which are clubbed under the name Café Unwind. Sure, a big plus point is that one needn’t be in purchase of a movie ticket to enter the lobby and grab a bite at Café Unwind. But still, there was something about the space that didn’t quite spell out ‘café’ to us!
Expecting a ‘proper’ cordoned off café area, with a full-fledged menu, table service et al, we were rather disappointed to see a couple of tables and chairs haphazardly strewn about the lobby with movie goers winding their way between to reach their screens. The all-vegetarian food and mostly fountain-dispensed drinks, we were told rather brusquely, cannot be ordered or delivered table side and that we would have to place and pick up our order from the counter, just like it is in the gazillion cinema multiplexes the city over.
Again, disappointment raised its ugly head when we were told that our first choices of loaded nachos (Rs 240)—or any kind of nachos for that matter—weren’t available. Ditto for the apple pie (Rs 140) and carrot cake (Rs 140). But what we did try was a well-made, superlative Mumbai style masala toast (Rs 172) that was slathered with spicy potato mash and cheddar cheese gratings and served open faced. Introducing us to a wonderful desi popcorn alternative was the medium sized box of chunky chaat dusted makhana or puffed lotus seeds also called fox nuts (Rs 190).
Ne’er too far away, popcorn found itself in the unlikeliest of places—in a milkshake. Thick, flavourful and utterly more-ish the popcorn milkshake (Rs 152) was a creamy treat with the comforting aroma and taste of caramel popcorn in its every sip. Putting the ‘dough’ in doughnut was the stodgy chocolate doughnut (Rs 142) that we had to coax down our throats thanks to its dry, mealy texture and off-putting taste.
We’d probably go back to Café Unwind only if we needed to grab some mid-movie sustenance and only if it is delivered to our seats and leave the lounging about at a proper café for afters.          

TIME: All day

AT: Metro INOX, M.G. Road, Dhobitalao Junction, Marine Lines.

CALL: 8080211111

(An edited version of this review appeared in the 30th November 2017 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India http://www.mid-day.com/articles/mumbai-food-why-this-cafe-inside-a-sobo-multiplex-fails-to-impress/18785155)

A-N-A-T-O-M-I-Z-E: Surströmming

By Raul Dias

The much-bandied around phrase “appearances can be deceptive” was probably coined for and by the Swedes. For one, the restrained, almost icy veneer that they are infamous for is demolished within minutes, when a group of Swedes come together for a traditional summer feast like a surströmming party, for instance. Hesitant smiles morph into full-throated laughs as toasts are raised and a can of surströmming cracked opened.
Now, this seemingly innocuous-looking, slightly puffed up can of fish holds within it a rather curious little secret that’s not for the faint-hearted! A super stinky preparation, surströmming or fermented Baltic herring has been a staple in traditional northern Swedish cuisine since at least the 16th century, originating in the Höga Kusten region of Sweden. There’s even a museum called the Fiskevistet Surströmmingsmuseet located in the small fishing village of Skeppsmaln along Sweden’s High Coast, that’s dedicated to this delicacy.
Just enough salt is used to prevent the raw herring from rotting and a fermentation process of at least six months gives the lightly-salted fish its characteristic strong smell and somewhat acidic taste. A challenge for the olfactory senses if there ever was one, when opened, the contents of a can of surströmming release a strong, overwhelming odour. In fact, according to a Japanese study, a newly opened can of surströmming has one of the most putrid food smells in the world, rivalling even that of other notorious fermented fish dishes such as the Korean hongeohoe and the Japanese kusaya.
Always eaten outdoors for obvious reasons, the ceremony behind opening and serving a can of surströmming has its own set of protocol. Understandably, the direction of the wind is most important, as no one wants a blast of the pungent fish odour fogging them up. It is also never served up on its own, as the taste—however milder than its smell—still needs a few ‘back-up acts’. These take the form of the typically Swedish circular hard bread called tunnbröd, atop which a little bit of the herring and the sour cream-like gräddfil spread is placed, along with a garnish of dill, Spanish red onion rings and slices of boiled potato. And as a chaser, a shot of aquavit an alcohol made from potatoes takes the edge off things!

(This column first appeared in the 26th November 2017 issue of The Hindu newspaper's Sunday Magazine section on page 8 http://www.thehindu.com/todays-paper/tp-features/tp-sundaymagazine/surstrmming/article20942770.ece)

Hollywood in Your Glass?

Taking India’s love for films to a whole other level are these seven cocktails—each inspired by an iconic Hollywood movie. Each distilling the glamour, wonder and magic of the world of cinema in every drop  

By Raul Dias

Vesper Martini (inspired by Casino Royale, 1967)
This one’s for the James Bond loyalist who likes it, to use the much-bandied about one liner, “shaken, not stirred!” An amalgamation of gin, vodka and the Lillet Blanc brand of French vermouth, garnished with not one, not two, but three olives, Estella’s take on the dirty martini is the perfect ultra-dry drink for a pleasant November evening in Mumbai. “Every man somewhere secretly wants to be James Bond with fast cars, lovely ladies and a life full of passion and adventure. The Vesper Martini is James Bond’s poison as seen in the film Casino Royale. Other than being a huge fan of this classic legendary character, I am personally enamoured by his swag and just had to make room for a clean, mean martini on our cocktail menu. Estella dedicates this to the man himself and of course to his fans,” says Nixon D’Souza, Bar and Beverage Head, Estella.
At Nichani Kutir, Juhu Tara Road, Juhu
Call 7999998232/7999998212
Cost Rs 650

Sherlock in a Pickle (inspired by Sherlock Holmes, 2009 and 2011)
​A sour and savoury cocktail, served with a lot of crushed ice, this blood-red cocktail available at London Taxi pays homage to the murder mystery-saturated Sherlock Holmes books and movies. Tea-infused vodka and gherkin brine is the base for this cocktail, as Sherlock was often found either with a cup of tea or a glass of wine (thus the beetroot wine reduction) in his hands. “While curating the London Taxi cocktail menu, the concept was very clear: to draw inspiration from some of the iconic elements of UK pop culture. Sherlock Holmes is the most popular literary character and very, very British and so the ingredients used in this cocktail have been inspired from his story,” explains, Ami Shroff, Head Mixologist, London Taxi.
At London Taxi, Kamala Mills, A-Wing, Trade World, Lower Parel
Call 9029990454
Cost Rs 700

Willy Wonka (inspired by Charlie and the Chocolate Factory, 2005)
Here’s another cocktail that’s thoroughly inspired by not just an iconic literary character, but also by the film based on that same wacky character—Willy Wonka! This seemingly innocuous blend of whiskey, creme de cacao, dark chocolate, may seem like child’s play, but it packs a mighty punch. “Given the quirkiness of Willy Wonka, and the way they portray chocolate and candy in the movie; this cocktail adds a little tipsy twist to the way we consume chocolate. The idea behind this cocktail was to not only make us feel good with our all-time favourite indulgence—chocolate—but also add a little buzz. The oak-y hint from the whiskey and the creme de cacao helps change the whole composition,” says Pranav Mody, Mixologist, The Sassy Spoon.
At The Sassy Spoon, Ground Floor, Express Towers, Nariman Point
Call 9920003500
Cost Rs 399

Smokin Cosmo (inspired by Sex and the City, 2008 and 2010)
Though we hate to give our cocktails a gender stereotype, this blushing hot pink drink is one for the ladies, just like the fabulous SATC quartet! Go puff, puff on this drink that’s a mix of vodka, Cointreau and lemon juice, all served up in a glass smoking pipe. For, as the name suggests, the Smoking Cosmo is supposed to give the drinker the feeling of smoking a pipe whilst sipping on a classic Cosmopolitan. It gives the traditional Cosmo a fun, quirky twist, making it that much more pleasurable. “To be perfectly honest, the cocktail wasn’t made keeping any specific film in mind. A Cosmo is a classic drink made popular by films like Sex and the City. At Joss, we’ve taken the already sassy drink up a notch and given it our own spin,” says Chef Farrokh Khambata, Proprietor, Joss.
At Joss, Ground Floor, Savoy Chambers, Linking Road, Santacruz (w)
Call 26617771/2
Cost Rs 495

Hawaiian (inspired by Blue Crush, 2002)
The azure waters of Hawaii as depicted in the 2002 surfer flick Blue Crush are the inspiration behind this Tiki-style cocktail that’s a deceptively potent one. It’s also deceptive as the colour is a sunset orange and not a deep blue one would expect. “A Hawaiian cocktail is the ultimate pool-side drink one could wish for. This one’s inspired by the movie Blue Crush which was shot in Hawaii. This cocktail is a perfect balance of vodka, pineapple juice, cardamom and Red Bull, just like how the character of Anne Marie balances her life’s challenges while training for the Hawaii surf event,” says Darren Alvares, Mixologist, Bar Bar.
At Bar Bar, First Floor, Phoenix Marketcity, Kurla
Call 61801501
Cost Rs 225 for 250ml and Rs 399 for 500ml

Moulin Rouge (inspired by Moulin Rouge, 2001)
Baz Luhrmann’s magnum opus Moulin Rouge was a larger-than-life extravaganza that many likened to a Bollywood production thanks to its songs, drama and elaborate sets. This eponymous cocktail seeks to capture the sizzling, passion-filled chemistry that Nicole Kidman and Ewan McGregor shared in the film with its spicy vodka, cinnamon, basil, passionfruit and apple-infused tea parts. “I was inspired by the Moulin Rouge which involves cabaret, a dance form high on music, song, recitation and drama, which I personally think fits in with a place like The Daily Bar and Kitchen,” says Rohit Hegde, Head Mixologist, The Daily Bar and Kitchen.
At The Daily Bar and Kitchen, Ground Floor Behind Shoppers Stop, SV Road, Bandra (w)
Call 9920446633
Cost Rs 400

Churchill Downs (inspired by Secretariat, 2010)
There’s certainly no horsing around this cocktail that’s named after a legendary horse racing track as featured in the 2010 movie Secretariat. Made from a host of ingredients like the banana dominated Dutch liqueur Pisang Ambon, Stolichnaya vodka, charred lemon, wheatgrass, homemade mint and ginger balm syrup, this lurid green cocktail tastes better than it looks! “We recently celebrated one year in the F&B industry and celebrated it over a Kentucky Derby Brunch setting with derby hats, decor and a special set menu around the same theme. The cocktail Churchill Downs is named after the main historic race track at the Kentucky Derby and the cocktail is dedicated to the American thoroughbred racehorse named Secretariat depicted in the movie of the same name,” says the developer of this cocktail, Chef Siddharth Kashyap, The Boston Butt.
At The Boston Butt, 1st floor Rampart Row, Kalaghoda, Fort,
Call 9892447669
Cost Rs 699

(An edited version of this article appeared in the 13th November 2017 issue of the evening edition of Mid-Day newspaper, India)

India’s Sweet Somethings!

With a range of delicacies that are as diverse as the nation itself, the Indian sweets’ platter truly runneth over with myriad varieties and regional interpretations ready to be savoured. And all this means one thing—it’s always celebration time, no matter what time of the year it is...

By Raul Dias

Cutting a swathe across India’s vast geographical, cultural, and most importantly, culinary landscape, it is the country’s mind-boggling cornucopia of sweets—some well-documented, while others delicious little edible secrets—that references this rich diversity in myriad ways and forms. From the unexpected lusciousness of a creamy palkova from Srivilliputhur in Tamil Nadu and the hitherto unsung wonders of a cloud-like nimish from Varanasi and from the coconut-y brilliance of Goa’s pinag to the sonorous crunch of an Arunachali khapse, we celebrate India’s hidden heroes of the world of sweets.
By no means is this an exhaustive list. Not even close. But what we’ve attempted, is to chronicle the most fascinating of them all. A few with neat little back stories to add to their appeal. And there truly is no better time than the onslaught of the festive season to bring these ‘barometers of celebration’ to the fore. While no wedding, birth announcement or festival is ever complete without a ‘sweet something’, we Indians don’t really need any excuse to partake in a sweet-fueled feast. So, go on. Indulge!

Northern Delights
“Aaj meethe mein kya hai?” or “what’s for afters, today?” is a heavily loaded, almost rhetorical question up in North India. For, there can never be a meal that’s not followed up with some kind of sweet preparation or the other. Offering up a mind-boggling range of sweets, many of which are dairy-centric, from the dominant barfis and pedas to the creamy kheers and shahi tukdas, there’s no dearth of options here.
If there’s one, ultra-finicky seasonal treat, then it would have to be nimish. Also known as makkhan
malai, and mainly found in Varanasi and Lucknow, both in the state Uttar Pradesh (UP), this winter
dessert is a delicate preparation that sees the froth from early morning dew-exposed milk scooped off and sweetened with sugar and flavoured with saffron or cardamom and served atop thickened sweet milk. This edible wonder is also known as daulat ki chaat in Delhi alluding to the expensive, hard-to-procure creamy layer!
One of the Hindu religion’s most sacred towns of Mathura beholds another delicious little treat-the
Mathure ka peda. Believed to be the birthplace of Lord Krishna, this town also in UP has been the
purveyor of these delectable morsels of heaven (pun intended!) for centuries that are made by cooking together fresh mawa (reduced milk solids), milk, sugar and ghee (clarified butter) with cardamom powder.
Resembling a bowl-shaped honeycomb, ghevar is one of Rajasthan’s greatest calling cards. Usually
prepared during the teej or raksha bandhan festival times, the filigreed delicacy is made by deep frying a slurry of oil, flour and sugar syrup and then dunking the whole sweet in more kewra (screw pine) essence-scented sugar syrup and served alongside a bowl of rabdi (reduced, almond and sugar milk).
With a rather curious name like matrimony, this sweet is an Anglo-Indian must have when a wedding in the family is to take place. Made usually by the mother of the bride-to-be, the sweet is a mixture of desiccated coconut, roasted semolina, condensed milk and yes, the very desi—ghee!
No list of North Indian sweets, however inexhaustive, can be complete without a mention of gujjias.
These crimp-edged, crescent-shaped fried dumplings are made by stuffing grated and roasted dry fruits, mawa and coconut powder into a pocket made from a mixture of semolina and wheat flour that are then deep fried and dunked in sugar syrup, but of course.

Southern Comfort
It wouldn’t be an exaggeration to say that a major chunk of the South Indian sweets’ repertoire is in some way or form influenced by the all-pervasive coconut. Take for instance Kerala’s delicious sweets that range from the cake-meets-halwa-meets-pancake, the coconut milk-redolent orappam to the Syrian Christian avalose podi made from a dry powder of roasted rice flour and ground coconut, eaten with a banana.
Carrying on the coconut leitmotif is the tati pandu kudumu from Andhra Pradesh (AP). This thick pancake is made from rice flour, coconut, jaggery and the pulp of the tadgola (palm fruit). Still in AP, the bobbatlu is similar to what is known as meethi roti in the North or puran poli in the West. This iteration is made with refined flour and is stuffed with a mix of gram lentils, jaggery and oodles of ghee.
Speaking of ghee and moving away from the ubiquity of the coconut, Karnataka’s Mysore pak is a
calorific treat where lashings of the clarified butter are introduced to sugar, gram flour, and cardamom powder and combined till a silken, melt-in-the-mouth texture is achieved. The creamy palkova from Srivilliputhur in Tamil Nadu made during the festival of Gokulashtami is a simple yet
luscious preparation made up of just two main ingredients—milk and sugar with a sprinkling of ghee and a dust of cardamom.
Dark, dense and delectable—is the best triple alliteration we could come up with to describe Tamil
Nadu’s Tirunelveli halwa laboriously made by stirring samba wheat and frothy, fermented milk along
with sugar and ghee all night long. It is widely believed that the halwa gets its great taste because it is cooked in the water from the river Thamirabharani.

Best of the West!
While not as ghee-laden as the Northern sweets, but pretty much as coconut-y as the South’s, the West of India has its fair share of sweet treats that are just as scrumptious. Made from colostrum milk, sugar and cardamom the wobbly kharvas is a treat from Maharashtra, as are the spicy dinkache ladoo that are made with dink an edible resin from the axle-wood tree, dried coconut flakes, ghee and dried fruits in their recipe. These strength-giving caloric bombs are specially fed to women who have just delivered a baby.
The East Indian community of Mumbai are legendary for their Christmas sweets particularly the thali
sweet that’s made from a whopping one kilogram of butter and half that quantity of semolina and sugar. Not for the faint hearted this one!
One of Gujarat’s most beloved sweets is the ghari from Surat. Stuffed with mawa and nuts, these deep-fried wheat flour puffs are mostly prepared during festivals like Chandani Padva or Diwali. Harnessing the goodness of whole milk, the Gujarati doodhpak is a rich pudding made with rice, milk, saffron and dry fruits and enjoyed at any old time one feels like it.
With its curious blend of colonial Portuguese and Indian influences, Goa’s sweets are a bite apart. A
version of the barfi, kokad made with desiccated coconut cooked with toasted semolina and sugar syrup is also found in Portugal’s other erstwhile colonies like Brazil. Similarly, pinag (also called pinaca) is a dense, dry, cocktail sausage-shaped confection that’s not overtly sweet made from coarsely ground rice flour, dried coconut and jaggery.
But the queen of all Goan sweets has got to be the seven layered bibinca. The egg yolk-butter-sugar-nutmeg-coconut milk concoction came about when a group of inventive 16th century Franciscan nuns in Goa used the leftover yolks—once the egg whites were used to stiffen their wimples—to make this sweet that’s baked with seven successive layers representing the seven hillocks that they had to ascend and descend every day in order to reach the church from their hilltop convent in Old Goa.

Feast from the East
While it is the milky, soft-textured Bengali sweets like sondesh, rasmalai and kheer kodom that dominate this Eastern ‘sweetscape’ with their legendary popularity, there are others that deserves a mention.
Criminally simple to made, but very more-ish are the narikolor naru from Assam that are rolled balls
made with just grated coconut and sugar. The nutty taste and mouth feel of the chakhao kheer from
Manipur made with black rice may be acquired sensations, but the taste of this creamy preparation is worth it. Served during the Losar festival in February-March each year, the crunchy khapse from Arunachal Pradesh is made from dried and roasted bundangmo (amaranth) flour that’s mixed with hot water and the resulting batter deep fried into crisp fritters. Speaking of fried, Odisha’s banana malpuas are worth every calorie. A batter made from milk, wheat flour, semolina and mashed bananas is deep fried into disks that then get coated in a sugar syrup and are always served at breakfast time.
Perhaps one of the healthiest sweets we can find in India is the chhangban leh kurtai from the state of Mizoram. This one sees rice flour mixed with jaggery and water to a paste that’s steamed after being enclosed within turmeric leaves that perfume and flavour the sweet. Very similar to this one is Tripura’s awan bangwi. Only here, ghee, cashews, raisins and ginger are added to the rice flour mix for heft and all this is steamed in cone-shaped lairu (turmeric) leaves.


Into the Drink
Why limit yourself to merely munching on something sweet? India’s wide repertoire of drinkable treats is no less legendary. Here’s a glimpse at four such examples:
* Piyush-this summer cooler popular both in Maharashtra and neighbouring Gujarat is a creamy treat that sees shrikhand (sweetened strained yogurt) churned into a frothy concoction along with buttermilk and spiced up with saffron strands, sugar and cardamom and nutmeg powder.
* Vonn-is a traditional Goan drinkable porridge made with coconut milk, jaggery and chana dal (gram lentils) along with bibbe (raw cashewnuts) all boiled together till thick and creamy.
* Thandai-also known as sardai this drink is made from sweetened milk and a paste of almonds, fennel seeds, watermelon seeds, rose petals, pepper, khus (vetiver) seeds, cardamom and saffron. It is super popular in the north of India and is generally served during the festivals of Holi and Maha Shivratri.
* Jigarthanda-literally translated into English as “heart cooling”, this drink originates in the South Indian city of Madurai in Tamil Nadu and is made up of a rather curious mix of sweetened reduced milk, badam pisin (gum tragacanth) and nannari (sarsaparilla) syrup. All this is topped up with a scoop of ice-cream.


The Savoury Quest
For those craving a bit of a savoury crunch after all that sweet talk, we have just the specimens for you!
* Kuzhalappam-these deep-fried tubular snacks from Kerala are made from bits of rice flour dough to which finely chopped onions and whole cumin are added.
* Saria-generally served as an accompaniment to the Parsi wedding feast these long, white wafers are made with sago flour and are simply irresistible!
* Til Nimki-these traditional Bengali snacks are made from wheat flour, sesame seeds and crushed
peppercorns and rolled into long, rectangular pieces before being deep fried.
* Drann-usually prepared on Maha Shivratri as bhog (offering) and served along with kehwa tea, these fried snacks from Kashmir are made from rice flour, boiled walnuts, red chilli powder and aromatic spices like cumin seeds, carom seeds and asafoetida water.
* Sel Roti-though Nepalese in origin, these fried, bangle-sized circular snacks are also made in Sikkim during the festival of Tihar and are a yummy preparation made from rice flour, salt and ghee. The sweet version eschews salt in favour of sugar and cardamom.


(An edited version of this article first appeared in the November 2017 issue of Jetwings International in-flight magazine of Jet Airways https://www.jetairways.com/EN/DE/JetExperience/magazines.aspx)