Land of Surprises

The Isan region in northeastern Thailand may not be on the ‘must-visit’ list of many travellers, but it does pack a mighty punch. Raul Dias gives you four reasons why you should consider this stunning part of the country for a vacation with a difference. 

By Raul Dias

I’ve always maintained that clichés aren’t as bad as they are made out to be. Especially when it comes to Thailand. I am a total sucker for the comforting familiarity a city like Bangkok affords me with its divine street food and pulsating nightlife. Or if I’m seeking some down time from all that, I know that artsy Chiang Mai way up north will provide me with that much-needed solace.
But every once in a while, I like to shake things up a bit and see a part of Thailand that has been eluding me thus far.
This time, that part happened to be Isan in the northeast of the country. As Thailand’s largest region, located on the Khorat Plateau, it is bordered by the Mekong River (along the border with Laos) to the north and east, by Cambodia to the southeast and the Sankamphaeng Range south of the province of Nakhon Ratchasima.
So, in order of brevity and a tight word limit, I’ll get straight to the point and list out the four reasons why Isan for me has been the best discovery of 2019 till now…

1. Visit a Monastery with a Difference
The city of Ubon Ratchathani was my very first stop on my Isan sojourn and the Wat Pah Nanachat a little outside the main city my first introduction to a rather unique system. This Buddhist monastery in the Theravada Forest Tradition was established in 1975 by Ven. Ajahn Chah with the aim of providing English-speaking men and women the opportunity to train and practice the simple and peaceful lifestyle that the Buddha taught his monks in the forests over 2,500 years ago. All this for free for stays of as little as three days to a lifetime!

2. Isan’s Natural Stunners
As the first of the two natural wonders of the region, the Pha Taem National Park covers an area of 140 square kilometers and is famous for its irregular shaped sandstones that look like giant mushrooms. But what it is equally popular among the local Thais for, is its numerous prehistoric cave paintings that date back 3,000-4,000 years. Scenes here depict fishing, rice farming, human figures, animals, hands and geometric designs—all still vivid to this very day.
Another calling card of Isan which is also lovingly called the ‘Grand Canyon of Thailand’ is Sam Pan Bok. Touching the border with Laos, it is made up of sandstone cliffs that run along the Mekong River. The Sam Pan Bok canyon is best seen by cruising along in a hired long tail boat that departs from the Song Khon village. One can also climb up to the plateau, the view from where is breathtaking. The seven meters tall and 20 meters wide plateau lying in the middle of the Mekong River is filled with many holes and basins in shapes that range from hearts to even Mickey Mouse. No wonder the name of the place Sam Pan Bok means ‘3,000 holes’.

3. Taste the Difference
Forget all about the typically Bangkok-style red/green/yellow curries or the ubiquitous pad thai and get set to let your taste buds get some unusual treats when in Isan. After your tryst with the ‘canyon’ treat yourself to a lunch of fresh Khong river fish and som tum papaya salad at the famous Krua Sam Pan Bok restaurant that is perched on a cliff overlooking the river. Or perhaps stop by for some khao tom (rice soup) at Raan Santi Pochana, a veritable institution in Ubon Ratchatani. For an early dinner head down to the town of Pimai. Here you will find Tew Pai Ped Yang, 20-year-old food shop that is famous for its special grilled duck with a crispy skin holding juicy duck meat within. Two other dishes not to be missed here are the famous Pimai fried noodles and the fermented pork ribs.

4. Temples Talk
End your trip to the Isan region by taking in the jay-dropping wonder of two Hindu temples that are truly unique. This is because both the Prasat Hin Muang Tum and the Prasat Hin Phanom Rung are each over 1,000 years old and made in the Khmer style, as the Buriram province that they are in is not far from the border with Cambodia. In the case of the former, the complex lies at the base of a mountain that is an extinct volcano and looks like a mini version of the great Ankor Wat Temple in Siem Reap, Cambodia. Built on top of a hill, Prasat Hin Phanom Rung has a grand tower that is made from pink sandstone which is why the complex is also known as Phanom Rung Stone Castle among the locals.

(An edited version of this column first appeared in the 14th April 2019 issue of The Free Press Journal newspaper's Weekend section on page 3 https://www.freepressjournal.in/travel/thailand-of-surprises-4-reasons-to-consider-isan-for-a-vacation-with-a-difference/1503821?fbclid=IwAR1TVWptR4DuL5v_X1zrcga6GLFFTm3rf0ta2iYJrWWZAtQklk6NLWsXSSg)

Goan ‘tar’ for Easter’s kuswar!

Edging out cutesy chocolate bunnies and marzipan eggs from our Goan Easter table is always dodol—the true kuswar star

By Raul Dias

Growing up in a bi-cultural Goan-Anglo Indian home in the early 90s, almost everything, culturally speaking, was neatly divvied up between the two vastly different Christian communities. While Christmas was always spent in frosty Jaipur with my mum’s family, tucking into Nan’s brandy-spiked plum pudding and gossamer-light, deep-fried rose cookies, Easter in Goa was a whole other affair.
The night before Maundy Thursday, my father would pile us all into his trusted old Amby, as mum would neatly pack chicken sandwiches, a mighty quiche Lorraine and a giant thermos flask of iced nimbu paani in the picnic hamper. All this as sustenance for the then 14-hour-long, overnight tryst with the Western Ghats, en route to four days of Easter feasting in our tiny village of Cavelossim that hugs the River Sal in South Goa’s Salcette region.

Loving Indulgence
While our large family home did have a fully functioning ‘western-style’ kitchen, it was the coconut husk-fired outdoor stove that my late grand aunt Flory and matriarch of the house, preferred cooking over. Here, she would toil for hours on end over the cinder-spewing flame, churning out one edible masterpiece after the other. Never once complaining about the soot as it coated her spectacle’s bifocal lenses with a thin layer of grey soot. Nor did she mind my grubby little hands reaching into a thali of cooling ‘tar’ for a cheeky taste test.         
Now, among the vast pantheon of Goa’s hallowed Easter kuswar (sweets) platter, ‘tar’ was always my favourite, thanks to its gooey, messy texture and earthy taste. Not to mention its oil-slick, jet black hue. It was also Tia Flory’s most demanded treat to us all. Never a fan of those luridly coloured marzipan Easter eggs with thick splodges of royal icing covering them or those waxy-tasting chocolate renditions of bunnies, my preferences were more local Goan sweets. Much to Tia Flory’s delight. And so indulge me, she did!

Onomatopoeia on a Thali
Even though it has a perfectly onomatopoeic name, the kind that rolls off one’s tongue just as smoothly as its silken texture does, dodol has always been ‘tar’ for me. It is also known to be referred to as black halwa by my posse of pals who seem to magically apparate into my dining room whenever mum sends over a thali of dodol, after carefully replicating Tia Flory’s original (and much guarded!) recipe.
Brought over to Goa from West Java by the Portuguese, it’s not surprising that I’ve encountered several iterations of dodol on my travels around South East Asia. But particularly in Indonesia. Commonly served during Eid, it is called jenang in the Javanese language, with even a local durian dodol available that is popular in the city of Medan. Closer home in Sri Lanka, it can be found in two versions: kalu dodol that’s made with kithul palm (caryota urens) jaggery and kiri dodol made with milk and cinnamon.

Bubble, Bubble Toil and Trouble!
But my earliest memories of dodol will always lie in those humid pre-Easter, March-April days in the Goa of my childhood. Carefully scraping a coconut on the kantonem to ensure that its milky white flesh bore no flecks of brown, Tia Flory would then introduce the scrapings to a fistful of soaked rice. Both soon to be ground to a thick pulp on the typically Goan rough granite mortar and pestle called a fator, which literally means stone.
The secret to its inky black colour, I’d soon learn, was thanks to the black jaggery. The kind that’s sold in the shape of tiny pyramids in Goa’s food markets. Made from the sap of the coconut palm, this madachem god jaggery was the de facto sweetener-cum-colourant of dodol, though Tia Flory did throw in a wad of the regular yellow jaggery for a bit of additional heft.
But the real action always began with the onset of the laborious hour-long stirring process. It was only when the lubricating ghee was added to the mixture that the real alchemy unfolded. Akin to a smouldering volcano, the by-now deep brown viscous liquid would bubble up. Every now and then its surface erupting with blisters of molten yumminess.
However, only when it had cooled down hours later, did it take on a shiny black colouring. Loathe to ruin its appearance with a garnish of any kind—despite protestations from other aunts who demanded cashew nut garnishes and other frivolities—Tia Flory would leave it as it was. Letting it revel in its firm, yet jellified countenance and sensual taste that bore hints of a molasse-y depth, coupled with top notes of toffee-like sweetness and that all-important additive—love!  

           

SUNDAY RECIPE
Goa Dodol
(Recipe courtesy, Ann Dias)

INGREDIENTS:
Coconut (scraped)1
Black Goa jaggery 250 gms
Regular yellow jaggery 50 gms
Ghee 2 tbsp
Rice (soaked) 4 tbsp
Chopped cashew nuts 10 gms (optional)

METHOD:
1. In a mixer, grind the scraped coconut and soaked rice together with a splash of water.
2. Reserve both the thick and thin extracts of the coconut-rice mixture and set aside separately.
3. In a heavy bottom kadhai, combine the thin extract and the two kinds of jaggery and cook on a medium to high flame, stirring continuously.
4. Once the mixture solidifies a bit, add the thick extract and the ghee. Keep stirring till the mixture turns a dark brown, almost black shade and till it leaves the sides of the kadhai.
5. Pour the mixture onto a greased thali and top with chopped cashew nuts, if desired.
6. Once cooled to room temperature, cut into squares or diamond shapes with a greased knife.    

(An edited version of this article first appeared in the 14th April 2019 issue of The Hindu newspaper's Sunday Magazine section on pages 26-27 https://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/food/make-some-goan-tar-for-easter/article26817493.ece?fbclid=IwAR31OIkUuvuaIJ31ybyRcNc2tdzDU2fA5ClmtqN3hsD8BoYCGfuIxb4-khY)

Notes from Indore

By Raul Dias

While other airports in India resort to a blend of wordless instrumental and folk tunes that serve as the ambient muzak, Indore’s Devi Ahilya Bai Holkar Airport relies on the mellifluous voice of singer Shantanu Mukherjee, a.k.a. Shaan. “Ho Halla”, which was Indore’s Swachhta Anthem song for the Minister for Urban Development’s Swachh Survekshan 2019, has now become a sort of battle cry in the Madhya Pradesh city’s cleanliness-fronted war. And for someone with a borderline cleanliness OCD like myself, spending a few days in Indore was like finding my own personal urban version of Valhalla.

“Swachhta aadat hai, swachhta utsav hai” (cleanliness is a habit, cleanliness is a celebration), goes a line from the aforementioned song, which was part of the Indore Municipal Corporation’s (IMC) cleanliness campaign that saw it clinch the title of India’s cleanest city for three years in a row now from 2017 to 2019. The song even plays as municipal vehicles go about collecting garbage from households. In fact, I was later told, it is the de facto and mandatory caller tune of the phones of municipal officials and elected representatives.

Tastefully Clean! 
Now, if Indore’s meandering, perpetually bustling Sarafa Bazaar street were to be a human being, it would most certainly be accused of having a split personality. By day, it is a warren of jewellery shops enticing patrons with gleaming necklaces and rows of stacked bangles.
However, every night at 10 p.m., it dons another avatar: that of a street food haven serving up everything from the typically Induri mashed corn and ghee snack called bhutte ka kees, to the molecular gastronomy-influenced ice paan that makes your breath go all frosty thanks to the addition of liquid nitrogen.
But it is also probably one of the only food streets in the world that’s totally devoid of any food detritus. I saw not a single styrofoam plate or plastic cup littering the ground. Every one of the 200-plus food stalls is provided with segregated garbage bins for both dry and wet waste. And once the feeding frenzy winds down way past midnight, municipal trucks with specially fitted, pressured water jets hose down the street, leaving it spotless for the commercial onslaught of the day ahead.

Seven Plus One

Interestingly, this newfound cleanliness zeal is not limited to the authorities alone. Indore’s citizens too have taken to the cause with fervour.

This is most evident at celebratory occasions like the ‘great Indian wedding’! Giving a cool new fillip to the saat pherasor seven pledges — each corresponding to a round of the sacred fire to solemnise the ceremony — is Indore’s version of the eighth pledge. With it, the newlywed couple is administered the oath of cleanliness. And here’s another uber cool initiative: dustbins are even distributed during such wedding ceremonies to guests as return gifts.
Speaking of dustbins, for the last two years, the IMC is believed to have distributed thousands of bottle-shaped dustbins — which neatly fit into the car door bottle-holders — to vehicle owners to encourage them not to litter on the roads. So chuffed was I to see them that I even picked up a couple to take back home for friends and family, each for a mere ₹35.
And as for one of India’s biggest problems, open defecation, the city has employed something known locally as ‘dabba gangs’ that patrol the city, discouraging open defecation and urging people to use the newly constructed public toilets that one can see everywhere in Indore.

Will it be a case of fourth time's a lucky charm for the nation’s cleanest city in 2020, or will it be ‘cleaned out’ of the competition? I’d wager a bet on the former.


(This article first appeared in the 7th April 2019 issue of The Hindu newspaper's Sunday Magazine section on page 27 https://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/travel/indore/article26743786.ece)

Conceptually Yours!

Cashing in on the latest international trend of the ‘Concept Restaurant’ are a host of interesting eateries in the Delhi NCR where everything from themed restaurants to ones where you can buy the furniture are drawing in those seeking to dine with a difference. 

By Raul Dias

Plum by Bentchair
The idea behind the inception of this unique conceptual restaurant is truly an interesting one! The product of a collaboration between a hospitality and a furniture brand, Plum, India’s first true ‘retail restaurant’ offers people the option of buying whatever catches their fancy in the breathtakingly beautiful and eclectic space nestled in city’s plush Aerocity super hub. From the furniture to the lights to the plates, everything is on sale. From the design aspect, the entire restaurant is a display area of different collections and is all about the small details, which are colourful, kitsch (in a good way!) and eye-catching. Every dimension is well-kept and blends into each other rather than being distinctive. As for the food, the Pan-Asian cuisine menu is replete with everything from the smoked eel nigiri to the crispy Thai lotus root and the spicy Cantonese barbeque chicken bao. With the striking, blue butterfly pea flower as the newest rage on the Indian dining scene, here too one can find the Thai ingredient in Plum’s iteration of crispy garlic fried rice with edamame. And for those still craving some sushi, the very innovative Nutella banana sushi seeks to remedy that.
The Walk, Worldmark 2, Aerocity, New Delhi-110037
Tel: 091-7303156444

Nueva
As Delhi’s first Peruvian cuisine restaurant, Nueva which means “new” in Spanish is pushing the boundaries as far as the city’s burgeoning concept restaurant scene is concerned. It does this to enormous success with both its stylish look and with its rather unfamiliar and exotic food offerings. The restaurant’s sophisticated, dark toned interiors and art deco accents are well-distributed between its three zones of the downstairs bar, the main dining hall and the angular 12-person private dining room on the first floor. Besides the strong presence of the expected Pervuian classics like shrimp and scallop ceviches and sushis—that reference the unique Japanese-Peruvian blend that’s known as Nikkei cuisine—there are also plenty of other Latin American dishes and drinks on the menu. From assados to dishes like the castila and saltado de carne, all bring that Latino flare to the experimental diner. Nueva even does a 12-course degustation menu where you can sample small portions of its menu’s top dishes.
Ground floor, Sangam Courtyard, R.K. Puram, New Delhi-110022
Tel: 011-65568382/9266668382
 

Unplugged Courtyard
Channelling the chilled-out vibe that transports you straight to the climes of Goa right in the heart of Gurgaon’s precinct of Udyog Vihar, this conceptual restaurant is welcoming, intimate and quite effortlessly dramatic. All that’s missing is the feel of the waves lapping at your toes! The space is understatedly elegant and generously spaced over 15,000 square feet spanning two levels, boasting of a terrace area, a secret garden and a quirky full-scale mock double decker bus that give the place a distinctly ‘comfy’ feel, without ever seeming over-designed. One of the few restaurants in this part of the NCR to offer daily, live acoustic music, Unplugged Courtyard truly lives up to its ‘unplugged’ concept. Offering up an eclectic mix of Indian, pan-Asian and Italian cuisine, the menu is designed and executed by ex-Noma, Copenhagen chef, Akshay Bhardwaj. Here, one can expect to experimental creations like duck kulchas and the atta chicken that’s baked whole covered by banana leave and a sealed with dough along with some beautifully presented drinks to sip on. 
No 9 Convenience Shopping Complex, Phase II, Udyog Vihar, Sector 20, Gurgaon-122012
Tel: 091-9319892965

Le Cirque 
Literally meaning ‘The Circus’, the concept-driven Le Cirque is all about the fun and the whimsical set in a chic and sophisticated atmosphere. From the beautifully-appointed bar lounge and the three spacious dining rooms to the alfresco seating with breath-taking views of New Delhi’s majestic Diplomatic Enclave, the 144-seat restaurant is drama personified. Even the exquisite porcelain Bernardaud tableware with its balloon motif mirror the restaurant’s playful side. As for the food, each of the items offered remain true to the Le Cirque vision of classic, yet innovative French-Italian cuisine. Signature dishes include seafood classics like the turbot àla grenoblaise where the fish is served with cauliflower, lemon, capers and almonds and the paupiette of black cod. For afters indulge in the two must-haves—cannoli and the floating island ‘Le Cirque’.           
The Leela Palace New Delhi, Chanakyapuri, Diplomatic Enclave, New Delhi-110023
Tel: 011-39331220

Swad
Bringing an interesting desi twist to the NCR’s new-found conceptual dining scene is this all-vegetarian multicuisine restaurant that serves dishes with a quirky spin to them. Imbued with plenty of kitschy elements, the contemporary-meets-Irani cafe inspired décor of the restaurant gives it a casual and relaxed vibe. Here you can tuck into interestingly presented dishes like the masala paneer slider that is injected with makhani gravy, the aloo-wadi curry that comes to the table in a small red pressure cooker or the kulhad wale palak chole chawal that’s served upside down. From the menu’s western and Asian sections, you can pick from Indianised renditions of everything from Mexican chimichanga rolls to the spicy Bangkok Manchurian bowl—never mind the geographical inaccuracies of the words ‘Bangkok’ and ‘Manchurian’ put together in the same sentence!
43, Ground Floor, Chiranjivi Tower, Nehru Place, New Delhi-110019
Tel: 091-9821524232


Enter, the concept nightclub!
Toy Room 
Riding the coattails of the concept restaurant boom in the Delhi NCR is this very unique ‘concept nightclub’. With a cuddly teddy bear named ‘Frank’ as its mascot, this 400-seater place is filled with children’s toys and other fun imagery—all in an entertaining, high-octane setting, bringing a subtle innocence to some hardcore partying. The interiors of Toy Room are chic, yet vibrant and quirky. The grand entrance lobby housed with a special merchandise area is dominated by a whimsical rendition of the classic last supper painting. Meander through the narrow passage leading to the main hall which is a L-shaped space with a huge curvilinear island bar serving a range of libations. Interestingly, for a nightclub, the food on offer here is an excellent selection of tapas style, small plates of sushis, dimsum and one of the best iterations of a simple pizza margherita you’ll ever have in the NCR.               
ALOFT Hotel Aerocity, Aerocity, New Delhi- 110037
Tel: 091-9953137673

(An edited version of this article first appeared in the April 2019 issue of Jetwings in-flight magazine of Jet Airways http://www.jetairways.com/EN/IN/jetexperience/magazines.aspx)

Unusual Sofia!

As one of the hottest new travel destinations for 2019, Sofia the capital of Bulgaria is a fascinating city with a lot to offer. Raul Dias shows you four of the most unusual and interesting things to do and see in this Eastern European city.  

By Raul Dias

Visiting a city like Sofia feels like being on the brink of a serendipitous adventure with something new in store for you at every turn. Not least of all for the reason, that both it, and the Eastern European country of Bulgaria that Sofia is the capital of, are places of great mystery to the average traveller.
But suddenly there seems to be a new-found interest in this modest-sized Balkan country and its dynamic capital. At least from the western traveller brigade who have taken to this post-communist nation with a vengeance. In fact, Bulgaria’s second largest city Plovdiv has even won the title of European Capital of Culture for 2019!
And while Bollywood might have warmed up the charms of Bulgaria—with films like the Ajay Devgn-starrer Shivaay (2016) and the in-production Brahmastra headlined by Ranbir Kapoor and Alia Bhatt that have been filmed there—for most of us Indians the word ‘Bulgaria’ draws a big fat blank. Me included.
That was until a few weeks ago, when I accepted an offer to come explore a few places in Bulgaria. I started off with Sofia. And boy, did it charm me with its wacky, alternative side with plenty lurking beneath the surface (pun so intended!), or what?
Here are four of the most unusual and interesting things that I’d recommend doing in Sofia:

Descend into the Catacombs of St. Sofia Church
Here, you not just visit the St. Sofia Church (and namesake of the city!)—that’s located next to the magnificent Eastern Orthodox-style St. Alexander Nevsky Cathedral—but also get your spook on and climb into its very bowels. All this, to wander among the ancient tombs and graves that are now part of the onsite subterranean museum. These graves are said to date back to the 6th-7th century when the simple red brick church was the site of the Roman city of Serdica’s necropolis. 

Sign-up for the Free Food Tour
Yes, you read right, a completely free food tour! Organised by a company called Balkan Bites (www.balkanbites.bg), the free food tour is a great way to get acquainted with the flavours of Sofia and is the first of its kind in Europe. This two-hour long guided walking tour takes place daily (excluding national holidays) and starts at 2pm outside the Russian Church in the city’s historic and cultural center. The guided walk takes you to around six places where you can sample everything from the typically Bulgarian fried dough snack called mekitsi to an introduction to the coiled, flaky pastry stuffed with cheese and spinach breakfast staple of banitsa. 

Get your Mineral Fix at the Free Public Hot Spring Taps
It is a well-publicised fact by its proud citizens that Sofia is a treasure trove of natural hot springs. With the city and its surroundings boasting more than 30 mineral springs. And there are three interesting facts related to this. For one, the city’s ancient coat of arms shows a man bathing in one such hot spring. Speaking of bathing, the city’s Regional History Museum was once the old Turkish public mineral bath house that was functioning till 1986. Adjacent to the museum, one can still see people partaking in the city’s mineral water bounty by filling huge water bottles with the free, (slightly salty tasting) warm water that flows from several taps that don’t even freeze in Sofia’s sub-zero winters!

Ring in Peace at Kambanite Park
One of the most perfect ways to end your unusual adventures around Sofia, is by taking the super-efficient metro to the Business Park station in the suburbs for some peace. A short walk from the station and you will find yourself at Kambanite Park that is known for its tall, concrete main bell monument that’s surrounded by a semi-circle of smaller concrete structures laden with bells from every country on earth. As one of the hidden gems of Sofia, the monument was built in 1979 as a global children’s monument to commemorate the International Year of the Child. The idea here was to include a bell dedicated to every country in the world and to have children ring these as a gesture of peace. So, head there and ring your country’s (or any) bell as an evocation of the universal wish—Peace on Earth. I sure did!

(An edited version of this column first appeared in the 31st March 2019 issue of The Free Press Journal newspaper's Weekend section on page 3 https://www.freepressjournal.in/travel/what-unusual-sofia-has-to-offer/1493451)

Heaven on Earth!

In the run up the International Day of Happiness on 20th March, Raul Dias tells you why Engelberg, Switzerland is one of the happiest, most fun places on earth thanks to some divine, angelic intervention and Mother Nature at her most beautiful best. 

By Raul Dias

I’m not a huge fan of train travel. But whenever I find myself in Switzerland, I always have a change of heart. Bucolic little towns with steepled churches and a countryside dotted with perfect little farm houses and barns whiz past you, leaving a blur of green with specks of yellow from the wild daisies popping up every now and then. However, my recent late winter trip to Switzerland showed me a totally different side to the country. 
The train ride from Lucerne to Engelberg is all of the above save for the last 10 minutes. Just after you pass the station of Grafenort, a dark, depressing tunnel suddenly seems to swallow up the entire train for around seven minutes, leaving you wondering if there is any light at the end of the tunnel. Quite literally! And then, all of a sudden, your eyes try their best to adjust to the blinding beauty they are forced to witness. A veritable mountainous winter wonderland awaits you, just as the train pulls up at Engelberg’s tiny train station all sheathed in a fuzzy snow blanket. “This is divinity at its best”, you hear yourself say. Without realising that in the case of Engelberg this is very much the case.

The angel angle
Legend has it that it was the voice of an angel that ordered the founding of the medieval Benedictine monastery in the town and thus its name became Engelberg or “Angel’s Town”. A huge, imposing structure the monastery is the all-important axis around which the entire town pivots. It finds itself represented in some of the most interesting ways. Take for example, my very first stop, the Show Cheese Factory at the monastery.
Dating back to the 17th century, the most important source of income for the monastery and the people of the valley of Engelberg was cattle and cheese trade. Cheese was carried on mules over passes in the Swiss Alps. Traders from Engelberg would journey over the Jochpass to the Grimsel hospice, where they would meet up with their Italian counterparts, in order to trade cheese for wine and silk.
Today, the happy, ever-smiling staff at the well-appointed Cheese Factory take pride in demonstrating to visitors from around the world the ancient art of cheese making. It is here where fresh milk, coming from cows which feed in the lush Engelberg pastures and surrounding Alps, is used to produce the delicious Swiss Monastery Cheese, particularly the very popular Engelberger Klosterglocke soft cream cheese that takes its bell shape from the monastery’s bell that tolls promptly on the hour to this very day.

Soaring high!
Another great calling card that Engelberg hold close to its heart is the ultra-popular winter haven of Mt. Titlis. A short 10-minute walk or a 3-minute bus ride from Engelberg’s train station and you find yourself at the base of the cable car valley station to go up Mt. Titlis. The new 8-seater cable cars whisk you comfortably from Engelberg directly to Stand station. You then take the world’s first revolving cable car, the Titlis Rotair, to the summit station at 3,020 metres above sea level.
Once at the top Titlis keeps up to its promise of being the ultimate in winter fun. Boasting more than 80 km of slopes, most of which are snow-sure, the ski area offers plenty of variety from off piste to the more controlled free style skiing. What’s more, you are guaranteed of enjoying all the snow action from October through until May.
And if skiing isn’t your thing then you can let off some steam in the snow park at Trübsee Alpine Lodge. Just grab a snowtube, minibob or balancer and whiz down the piste, whipping up a mini blizzard as you go. At 3,041 metres above sea level, the Titlis Cliff Walk is not just one of the newest attractions up the mountain, but also Europe’s highest suspension bridge. Once you ford the bridge you can take a walk to the vantage point at Stotzig Egg and admire the view of Engelberg below.   

(An edited version of this column first appeared in the 17th March 2019 issue of The Free Press Journal newspaper's Weekend section on page 3 https://www.freepressjournal.in/featured-blog/why-engelberg-in-switzerland-is-truly-heaven-on-earth/1483218)

Celebrating Her!

In the run up to next week’s International Women’s Day on 8th March, this Sunday Raul Dias takes you to four museums around the world that are dedicated to the indomitable spirit of the woman in all her strength and glory.  

By Raul Dias

Having my birthday fall exactly a day after 8th March’s International Women’s Day, the day has always been a significant one in my life. Coming from a family dominated by extremely strong, successful ladies, I’ve always held women in the highest esteem. So much so, that, whenever I travel, I try and fit in at least one activity that celebrates a woman the way she should be—with respect and admiration. Be it learning the finer nuances of batik painting in Indonesia from a very patient lady or partaking in a voodoo ritual conducted by a high priestess in New Orleans!
And so, the following article is a collation of my various visits over the years to museums around the world that are significantly different from the scores of others I have visited. Welcome to some of the best ‘Women’s Museums’—from America to Africa and from the UAE to the UK. Places that focus on everything from the history of women’s political, social and cultural equality to some stunning works of art for and by women…

Women’s Museum
Dubai, UAE
Located in Dubai’s historic quarter of Deira, the Women’s Museum is housed in a building called Bait al Banat, which translates to “The Girls House”. Built in the 1950s, this former residential home was said to be the place where three unmarried Emirati sisters once lived. Today, besides being a museum, the space is a national archive and documentation center. It is dedicated to exploring the different facets of the lives of Emirati women—professional and personal, past and present. It includes artwork by various female Emirati artists and photographs showing the contributions of Emirati women. Examples of their Emirati jewellery and dresses and an exploration of how past and current rulers have affected the role of women in the UAE can also be found in this fascinating one-of-a-kind museum.

National Cowgirl Museum 
Fort Worth, USA
This museum dedicated to women’s empowerment in a very interesting and unique way, was first started in 1975 in the basement of the Deaf Smith County Library in Hereford, Texas. It was removed to Fort Worth, also in Texas in 1994 and is today dedicated to honouring women of the American West who have displayed extraordinary courage and pioneering fortitude. The museum is an educational resource with exhibits, a research library, and rare photography collections. Among its many permanent exhibits, “Into the Arena,” is one of the most fascinating ones. This one covers women in the fields of rodeo and trick riding, as well as modern horsewomen of note such as Belmont Stakes winning jockey Julie Krone. It has interactive computer displays, rodeo memorabilia, clothing, and other rodeo artifacts. However, I personally enjoyed the “Claiming the Spotlight” exbibit that shows the cowgirl as represented in media, and the varying roles the archetypical cowgirl has played in film, television, advertising and music.

Karen Blixen Museum
Nairobi, Kenya 
Just as one would expect a museum dedicated to an author who was so in love with the wilds of Africa, the Karen Blixen Museum is housed at the foot of the Ngong Hills, around 10 km outside of the Kenyan capital of Nairobi. The life of the Danish writer who was famous for her book Out of Africa is celebrated so wondrously in this well-appointed museum housed in a colonial-style bungalow. The house and its attached property were bought in 1917 by Blixen and her husband, Baron Bror von Blixen-Finecke with the intention of operating a coffee plantation. After the Blixens separated in 1921, Karen Blixen continued to live at the house and run the plantation until she returned to Denmark 1931. Her life here is chronicled both in her most famous aforementioned book, as well as in her other book Shadows of the Grass. At the museum, one can join the guided tours of the house, which features rooms designed in both the original decor and with props from the 1985 film that was based on Out of Africa and know more about Blixen’s fascinating life.

Florence Nightingale Museum
London, UK
Another great woman whose life and work is celebrated in a specially dedicated museum is the world’s most famous nurse Florence Nightingale. Located on the banks of the river Thames opposite the Houses of Parliament in London, the museum attracts visitors from all over the world who want to learn more about the ‘Lady with the Lamp’ and her Victorian world. Here you can also examine Florence’s legacy, her influence on nursing today and the continuing relevance of her work. The Florence Nightingale Museum even runs a busy learning programme for schools and families activities, as well as a lively events programme with regular afternoon and event talks. Make sure to check the museum’s schedule to see what’s on before you visit!

(An edited version of this column first appeard in the 3rd March 2019 issue of The Free Press Journal newspaper's Weekend section on page 3 https://www.freepressjournal.in/travel/international-womens-day-2019-4-museums-around-the-world-dedicated-to-the-indomitable-spirit-of-woman/1472637)