South Africa’s Other Big 5!

As one of the world’s newest adventure sports capitals South Africa is more than just a world-class safari destination. And the Garden Route in the country’s Western Cape region is just the place to indulge your every adrenaline-laced fantasy, as Raul Dias recently discovered. 

By Raul Dias

Hugging the Indian Ocean with all its might, South Africa’s stunning Garden Route—or to use the local Afrikaner name ‘Tuinroete’—is one of the most popular drives in the world you could ever take. Stretching a languid, 300 kilometres along the south-western coast of South Africa which extends from Mossel Bay in the Western Cape to the Storms River in the Eastern Cape, the route takes in the beauty of places like Knysna, Plettenberg Bay, Mossel Bay and George among others.
Here, nestled amidst the imposing Swartberg mountains you will also find the Outeniqua and Tsitsikamma indigenous forests. You will see a unique mixture of Cape Fynbos and Temperate Forest here, where you can indulge in the many hiking trails and eco- and adventure-tourism activities. Speaking of which, cast aside all preconceived notions of South Africa being a safari stronghold and think adrenaline-pumping, daredevilry when in this region. With everything from cave exploring to bungy jumping and shark cage diving, the Garden Route has it all and then some more.
We bring you South Africa’s ‘Other Big 5’…

1. Great White Shark Diving
With probably the most accessible Great White Sharks in the world, Seal Island in Mossel Bay is only 2 kilometres from the harbour and very close to the local beach. Once you meet the shark diving crew, you can enjoy a light breakfast and will receive a safety briefing about the boat and the trip to come. Arriving at anchor site, the crew will immediately start to chum the water to attract the sharks which consists of natural marine products and fish which is natural to their diet. Once the sharks are around the boat and comfortable with the boat, the cage will be dropped into the water and attached to the side of the boat. Then you will be lowered into the cage and your close encounter with good old ‘Jaws’ will begin! Interestingly, you do not need any experience in diving to do the shark cage dive, as this is a simple surface dive and non-technical. (www.sharkzone.co.za)

2. Go Cave Exploring at Cango
The magnificent Cango Caves in the Klein Karoo area of the Garden Route are regarded as South Africa’s largest show caves. And rightly so! Discovered by Dutch colonists in 1780, the caves are said to have begun forming 20 million years ago when acidic ground water chemically eroded the 100-million-year-old limestone rock. Take the daily adventure tour and visit the deepest sections of the caves. Once inside the 5.3 kilometres long caves, put aside any latent claustrophobia, as you wriggle and slither your way into the bowels of the cold, damp caves. Make sure to stop every now and then to ogle at the dramatic melted wax-like formations of stalactites and stalagmites. And they have equally dramatic monikers like ‘Bridal Chamber’, ‘Cleopatra’s Needle’ and ‘Frozen Waterfall’ to name a few. (www.cango-caves.co.za)

3. Ride an Ostrich!
Oudtshoorn is famous for its huge ostrich population, which thrive in the semi-desert conditions. To ride an ostrich, you need to visit one of the town’s many ostrich show farms like Highgate. Here, you can first observe large flocks of ostriches at various stages of development. You will then be instructed on how to hold on along with the commands to be employed to stop the bird and off you go for the ride of your life. And once you’re done with your ostrich race, make sure to add to the adventure and try an ostrich steak or an ostrich egg (which feeds 20 people). You can also visit the shop on site and purchase exclusive leather handbags and feather boas and a variety of decorated and plain ostrich eggshells. (www.highgate.co.za)

4. Close Encounter Whale Watching
With the only close encounter whale watching permit holder for the greater Knysna area, Ocean Odyssey takes you on its 26-seater boat for a spot of whale watching. Departing from Thesen Harbour Town, an island off the main Knysna coast, the boat cruises across the sweeping Knysna estuary and out to sea through the iconic Knysna Heads in search of both the Southern Right and Humpback whales. These two species of whales are said to leave their icy feeding grounds off Antarctica and migrate and calve in the warmer waters of this coastline and chances of sighting a few are very good here. But don’t worry. Even if the mighty gentle giants of the ocean prove to be elusive the day you set out to visit them, their playful companions—the bottlenose dolphins are always present along the Knysna Heads to show you a wonderful time! (www.oceanodyssey.co.za)

5. Jump the World’s Highest Bungy Jump
We’ve truly saved the best…or, rather the most dreaded of all Garden Route activities for last! Combining the thrills of a bungy jump and of being part of a Guinness World Record, this jump off the Bloukrans Bridge that fords over the Bloukrans River valley at a depth of 216 meters, is terrifying to say the very least, but worth every ounce of adrenaline that kicks in once you’re done with it. Recognised as the ‘highest bungy from a bridge’ in the world, the Bloukrans Bungy uses pendulum bungy technology to ensure that you get to enjoy a 360-degree view of the beautiful Tsitsikamma National Park and of Africa’s highest bridge. But one needn’t do the bungy to enjoy the view, Face Adrenalin, the guys who conduct the jump, also offer ziplining and a walk under the bridge for non-jumpers. (www.faceadrenalin.com)


FACT FILE
Getting there 
Although there are no direct flights from India to South Africa at the moment, the best way to get there is via Dubai on Emirates that has daily flights to and from Cape Town, Durban and Johannesburg. Once in South Africa, you can hire a car and drive down the Garden Route. Book a car at www.avis.co.za, www.europcar.co.za or www.budget.co.za. Indian passport holders need a visa to enter South Africa, which is easy to procure via the VFS facility.

When to visit
Because South Africa is situated in the Southern Hemisphere, the seasons are in reverse. This means that spring (mid-September to November) through to summer (late November to March) are ideal times for a vacation along the Garden Route when the temperature hovers between a comfortable 19C to 25C.

Accommodation
The Garden Route has an excellent selection of hotels to choose from to suit all budgets and tastes. Some of the best options are:
* Turnberry Boutique Hotel (www.turnberryhotel.co.za) in Oudtshoorn
* Belvidere Manor Hotel (www.belvidere.co.za) in Knysna
* Park House Lodge (www.parkhouse.co.za) in Mossel Bay

(An edited version of this article appeared in the 29th June 2018 issue of the Afternoon Despatch & Courier newspaper, India on pages 14 and 15 http://www.afternoondc.in/48-hrs/south-africas-other-big-5/article_225973)

Sushi 2.0

Today, on International Sushi Day, we liberate all you sushi fans from the shackles of boring, old, run-of-the-mill iterations and introduce you to six of the most unusual and odd ball interpretations of sushi available in the city.

By Raul Dias

Prawns and Edamame Sushi Pizza
If there’s one aspect of sushi that’s truly remarkable, then that would have to be its ability to experiment with both ingredients and presentation styles. Take this innovative sushi pizza for example. Locally sourced prawns and that quintessential Japanese ingredient, edamame are combined with a honey, chilli and fresh mango sauce and shaped to resemble a slice of pizza. “Sushi and pizza are perhaps two the most loved comfort foods and there couldn’t have been a better occasion than International Sushi Day to celebrate the confluence of the two,” says Chef Paul Kinny, Culinary Director, Shizusan Shophouse & Bar.  
At Shizusan Shophouse & Bar, High Street Phoenix, Lower Parel.
Call 62373536
Cost Rs 375 (per slice)

BLT Sushi Sandwich
Pushing the boundary even further, this sushi variant gets a top score on the innovation charts! Taking the classic all-American bacon, lettuce and tomato sandwich and giving it a far eastern fillip as a sushi are the guys at The Fatty Bao. Here, bacon, lettuce and roasted tomato are layered in vinegared-rice and a nori sheet for the ultimate sushi sandwich hybrid. “This sandwich sushi is inspired by the onigirazu sushi, where sushi rice and nori sheets are used to make sandwich shapes with various fillings,” says Chef Prashanth, Executive Chef, The Fatty Bao.
At The Fatty Bao, G1, 108, Morya Classic, Off New Link Road, Andheri West.
Call 62366323/7738008460
Cost Rs 490 (4 pieces)

Tsu No Maki
Just when you thought you’d seen the last mango of the season, you see it well-represented in this totally wacky maki sushi. Joining the salmon-tuna protein duo are slivers of ripe mango and vinegar-sushi rice to make a quadrant shaped piece of sushi. And this is why it is named Tsu No Maki, because in Japanese “Tsu No” means four. “Classical sushi consists of seasonal ingredients prepared using the most sophisticated methods to bring out the best natural flavour of the dish. Where as in the case of innovative versions of sushi, we use local and seasonal ingredients like mango which are much appreciated by our guests,” says Chef Yogendra Adep, Chef De Cuisine, The St. Regis Mumbai
At Yuuka, Level 37, The St. Regis Mumbai, 462, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel West.
Call 61628422
Cost Rs 2,100 (8 pieces)

Gobo Nigiri
As one of Japanese cuisine’s most popular ingredients, the burdock root or gobo is a herb that not just detoxifies the blood, but it is also great for the lymphatic system and skin. Distilling the goodness of this ingredient that we very rarely see in Indian Japanese restaurants is Pa Pa Ya’s all veg Gobo Nigiri. Here, gobo root is combined with carrot, cucumber and avocado that are rolled in a nori sheet, resulting in a sweet, yet pungent sushi roll. “Gobo has a high percentage of irons and vitamins A and B. While creating the dish I wanted to keep the taste authentic as well as make it a healthier option for sushi with the further addition of carrots, cucumber and avocado,” says Chef Sahil Singh, Sr Executive Chef, Pa Pa Ya.
At Pa Pa Ya, Hotel Diplomat, B. K. Boman Behram Marg, Colaba.
Call 8451011174
Cost Rs 625 (8 pieces)

Battera Sushi with Salmon and Tuna
Very little is known about the Osaka-style pressed sushi called oshizushi. Introducing us, to not just this regional sushi speciality, but going one step further and topping it off with three very unusual ingredients—avocado tartare, capers and onion salsa is the Battera Sushi with salmon and tuna. “Battera sushi, that is moulded in a special wooden box, is both fun to eat and lovely to look at. And not to mention different from the usual monotony of rolled sushi, that one sees everywhere,” says Chef Vikram Khatri, Executive Chef, Hello Guppy.
At Hello Guppy, Ground Floor, Godrej-BKC, G-Block, BKC.
Call 26534720
Cost Rs 720 (8 pieces)

Mafia Roll
Never mind its rather intimidating name, this sushi roll is all about fun. How else can one explain the use of popping corn as one of its main ingredients? This uramaki (inside out) roll of corn tempura with piquillo peppers and gochujang mayonnaise that’s garnished with some popcorn and parsley has an interesting story behind its name. “The pop and bang of the Italian Mafia is carried forward into this sushi roll which has popping corn and fiery roasted piquillo peppers along with the bang of spicy gochujang mayonnaise,” says Chef Farrokh Khambata, Owner-Chef, Joss.
At Joss, Ground Floor, Savoy Chambers, Linking Road, Santacruz West.
Call 26617771
Cost Rs 850 (8 pieces)


Recipe for…
Sriracha Blush Maki Sushi

Ingredients:
15gm Avocado Cubes
15gm Cucumber Batons
10gm Shredded Carrot
15gm Jalapeño Tempura Fried
15gm Cream Cheese
10gm Black Sesame Seeds
120gm Sushi Rice (boiled)
30ml Sushi Vinegar
1 Nori Seaweed Sheet
10ml Sriracha Hot Chilli Sauce
10gm Tobanjan Paste
10gm Togarashi Japanese Spice Powder
10gm Kewpie Japanese Mayonnaise

Method:
* Place the nori sheet on a sushi mat and spread the cooked and vinegar-sprinkled sushi rice on it. Sprinkle togarashi and sesame seeds on top of the rice.
* Turn over the sheet. Put cream cheese, avocado, cucumber, carrot, fried jalapeño tempura in the centre of the sheet.
* Roll it tightly and cut into eight pieces and arrange on a platter.
* Drizzle with Kewpie mayonnaise mixed with tobanjan paste and dot with sriracha sauce.

--Recipe courtesy Chef Paul Kinny, Culinary Director, Shizusan Shophouse & Bar

(An edited version of this article appeared in the 18th June 2018 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India on page 22 https://www.mid-day.com/articles/international-sushi-day-heres-six-unusual-picks-from-across-mumbais-eateries/19530158)

A-N-A-T-O-M-I-Z-E: Chocolate Shooter

By Raul Dias

It’s a bone-numbingly chilly day in Antwerp, Belgium and there’s a palpable sense of nervousness and apprehension building up in the room. All this, as a bunch of us line up for our first…well, line! My feeble protests that it’s my very first time ‘shooting up’ fall on deaf ears. My initiator into the world of ‘nasal pleasure’ pays no attention to my agitated state of mind and thrusts the tiny plexiglass apparatus in front of my reluctant nose.
On his count of “three”, I hear the gentle vibrating sound of a released spring. “Sniff!” I’m told, and I do just that, albeit hesitatingly. The bitter-smelling powder travels up my nasal canal, invading secret olfactory places hitherto unconquered. Suddenly, my palate is exploding with the multitude of sensations and flavours dancing on it. I can taste cocoa, vanilla and ginger at the back of my throat. Separately at first, and then all at the same time. My initiation is complete…
Now, before you begin to get any ideas about my rather graphic debut experiment of ‘snorting up’ as it were, let me set the record straight. I was merely indulging in the coolest chocolate sensation to invade Belgium, the chocolate capital of the world—The Chocolate Shooter at the famous chocolate shop The Chocolate Line by master chocolatiere Dominique Persoone.
Apparently, this tiny spring-triggered contraption is what one uses to snort up powdered flavoured cocoa for the ultimate theobromine-induced high. All this, thanks to recent research that has shown us how important our nose is when tasting food. Hence, the guys at this Belgian chocolate institution came up with the idea of allowing it to enjoy a chocolate ‘tasting’ of its own. And according to them, sniffing cocoa with raspberry or ginger and mint will help enhance the pleasure of the chocolate experience.
And there couldn’t have been a more apt and opportune time to launch this bizarre, yet innovative contraption than a few years ago at the birthday celebrations of one of the most notorious rock bands—The Rolling Stones! At first, only available to try and buy at the store’s Antwerp and Bruges branches, The Chocolate Shooter can now be bought online as well.

(This column first appeared in the 10th June 2018 issue of The Hindu newspaper's Sunday Magazine section on page 8 http://www.thehindu.com/todays-paper/tp-features/tp-sundaymagazine/chocolate-shooter/article24125692.ece)

Notes from Durban

By Raul Dias

Durban. Miami. Mumbai. Geographically speaking, there couldn’t be a more disparate trio of cities. But if there is one very important factor that links them all together, then that would have to be the abundance of Art Deco-inspired structures. This architectural style that originated in the early 1920s in France and flourished worldwide until World War II is characterised by bold colours, glamorous ornamentation, and geometric shapes—particularly that of the columnal pilasters that take the eye on an upwards swoop.
Considered the Art Deco capital of not just South Africa, but of all of Africa, Durban that hugs the Indian Ocean provides enough impetus for fans of the architectural style to spend a day or two traipsing about its Art Deco-infested streets.

Golden Mile
Interestingly, just like Miami’s South Beach and Mumbai’s Marine Drive, Durban’s impressive cache of Art Deco buildings can also be found straddling the city’s glamourous waterfront aptly called ‘The Golden Mile’. Stretching from the Moses Mabhida Stadium in the north to the uShaka Beach at the south end, here is where Durban puts on a show with some of the world of Art Deco’s greatest hits on full display!
While some residential buildings, such as Quadrant House on the Victoria Embankment, emphasise the city’s maritime background with its scalloped crenulations and other nautical motifs, there are others that highlight the city’s myriad cultural influences. So, on one hand we see distinct Saracenic architectural influences in buildings such as Ebrahim Court and the Essop Moosa Building, that are built in a style reflecting the interests of Durban’s Muslim traders in the 1930s.
Magnificent structures like the Colonial Mutual Building constructed in 1933 bear numerous African animal influences. Here, we see a virtual menagerie of geometric eagles, antelopes, and lions that intermingle seamlessly with Gothic and Roman-esque designs that take the form of chevrons, sunbursts and fluted columns.
What’s particularly noteworthy about Durban is the fact that the Art Deco architectural movement isn’t merely a relic of the past, but a living, organic part of the cityscape. Constructed in late 2002, at the top end of the Golden Mile, the Suncoast Casino and Entertainment World is a prime example of the city’s Neo Art Deco revival scene with its faux jazz era glitz and glamour. 

Public Art For All
And it’s not just residential and commercial buildings that reflect this apparent Art Deco obsession Durban seems to be inflicted with. A post WWII construction—built to celebrate the lives of young men and women who went to war against Fascism—the Memorial Tower Building at the University of KwaZulu Natal is a stunning edifice with a central tower that reminds one of another Art Deco icon, Manhattan’s Empire State Building.
As one of Durban’s earliest Art Deco structures, the Cenotaph in the city’s Albert Luthuli Square was the result of an architectural competition held in 1921. At the base of this Cenotaph, one can find a blue and gold sculpture featuring a fallen warrior—depicting those killed in both world wars—being transported to heaven in the arms of two semi-circular winged angels.

Preservation Initiatives
As is the case with most developing cities, a severe lack of funds and city development schemes are often the reasons why such heritage structures fall into disrepair and are thus in fear of becoming derelict with time. And Durban’s situation is no different. To counter this, the Durban Art Deco Society was formed in 1999 to bring public attention to these Art Deco jewels.
While the society encourages owners of Art Deco style buildings to be aware of their heritage and offers advice on restoration and repainting, it also helps raise funds for the same. It does this by organising tours for tourists guided by architects and specialists in conservationist architecture to know more about this movement and its relevance in today’s architectural milieu.  

(An edited version of this article first appeared in the 3rd June 2018 issue of The Hindu newspaper's Sunday Magazine section on page 7 http://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/travel/notes-from-durban/article24065439.ece)

48 Hours in Oslo

A vibrant city with a rich maritime legacy, Oslo isn’t just the dynamic capital of Norway, but also the perfect place to enjoy a quick two-day jaunt spent discovering its treasure-trove of attractions and flavours.

By Raul Dias

Sitting pretty on Norway’s southern coast at the head of the Oslofjord, the country’s capital of Oslo is a city that is well-known for its green spaces and museums. And while one of Oslo’s greatest calling cards is the fact that it is Europe’s fastest growing city, there’s no denying the fact that it is also one of the world’s most expensive cities to visit. But one needn’t break the bank to get the most out of this city that prides itself on its reinventive spirit. Just a little bit of intelligent planning and research will have you make the best of Oslo—however abbreviated your trip may be. 
We’ve chalked out an action-packed itinerary for you to enjoy all of 48 hours in this vibrant city that puts on a spectacular show all year round! 

Day 1
9.00 A.M.
CELEBRATE OSLO’S MARITIME HISTORY AT THE VIKING SHIP MUSEUM
Be warned: the lines to get into this museum can be painfully long, so head out early to avoid the crowds. Established under the aegis of the Museum of Cultural History of the University of Oslo at Bygdøy, this museum is worth every minute of the three and a half hours one spends on an average here. Unlike its Swedish counterpart, the Vasa Museum in Stockholm, this one has not one, but three wholly excavated Viking ships on full display. Check out the Oseberg ship that was ‘exhumed’ from its watery grave in a farm in Vestfold country in 1905. Other main attractions here include the Gokstad ship and Tune ship along with other Viking era relics like wood carvings, sledges and even a whole horse cart.   

1.30 P.M.
HAVE LUNCH AT THE ICONIC GRAND CAFÉ
While this suggestion may have the words “typically touristy” written all over it, what’s wrong with indulging in a cliché every now and then? While the original Grand Café opened in 1874 in the basement of the Grand Hotel at Karl Johans gate, the café is today a true-blue Oslo icon. In its heydays, the likes of Henrik Ibsen, Knut Hamsun and the famous sculptor Gustav Vigeland could often be spotted lunching here. Today, one can partake in classic dishes like the smoked Norwegian salmon with mustard, alongside modern interpretations like spelt risotto with fermented beetroot.

4.30 P.M.
PARKS AND RECREATION!
Speaking of Gustav Vigeland, the next pit stop on your itinerary should be the fecund Vigeland Park for a nice post-prandial stroll. As the world’s largest sculpture park made by a single artist, this green lung of Oslo—completed between 1939 and 1949—is home to more than 200 of the sculptor’s creations that are either set in wrought iron and bronze or carved out of granite. Depicting human life in its every stage of growth, from infancy to the frailties of old age, there is something enigmatic and moving about the works, particularly the central obelisk-like column called The Monolith that has sculptures of human bodies lying atop each other signifying man’s resurrection from despair. 

8.00 P.M.
ENJOY A STARRED DINNER
Basking in the glory of the neo-Nordic craze that has ensnared the world, Oslo is famous as being home to the most northern three-Michelin-starred restaurant in the world. Yes, we’re talking about the famed Maaemo. Located in the Schweigaardsgate neighbourhood of the city, this fine dining haven is run by the Danish-born Chef Esben Holmboe Bang. Take in the visual and edible brilliance of dishes like the oyster emulsion with a gel of blue mussel and the mackerel that’s topped with edible flowers and wild garlic. These form part of the nine-course ‘The Seasonal Menu’ which at 2,800 Kroner per person (sans drinks, that is) may be prohibitively expensive, but one that comes with unfathomable bragging rights!

Day 2
10.00 A.M.
EXPLORE AKERSHUS FORTRESS
After a relaxed, typically Oslo breakfast of bread, cheese, fruit and coffee called Oslofrokosten at one of the many cafés that dot the modern-esque Oslo Central (train) Station, set off on foot to this Oslo landmark. Overlooking the harbour of Oslo, the Akershus Fortress is a castle and fortress dating back to the 1300s. Taking on various avatars over the years, in the past it has been a prison and the seat of the royal family. Today, it houses a series of barracks belonging to the Norwegian army. Though highly fortified with tight security, you can explore this fortress by joining in on the daily tours that take you around. It even has a well-equipped visitor centre where you can get all the information you need.

1.00 P.M.
VISIT A MATHALLEN
Basically a food hall inspired by the European indoor food markets, a Mathallen is a typically Norwegian institution where one can grab a quick lunch at one its many kiosks and stalls that house purveyors of everything from smoked cod to the ubiquitous sushi. The one in Vulkan that runs from Tuesday to Saturday, has regular pop-up food festivals that showcase cuisine from around the world through out the year, besides its phalanx of permanent eateries and businesses like the Vulkanfisk Seafoodbar and the Gutta på Haugen gourmet cheese store. And for those with a passion for learning the culinary arts, the Kulinarisk Akademi housed in the Mathallen is the perfect place to learn to whip up a few Norwegian dishes.

3.00 P.M.
HOLMENKOLLEN SKI MUSEUM AND TOWER
Standing out like a giant metallic tongue piercing through the cool blue sky, the Holmenkollen Ski Museum and Tower is a must visit when in Oslo. And while one can check it out throughout the year, it is best visited during the winter months when you can enjoy a spot of skiing off the legendary ski jump. But for those with limited time and skiing abilities, the ski museum that’s located underneath the famous ski jump is a great way to orient oneself with the Norwegian skiing culture and history. As the oldest of its kind in the world, the museum presents more than 4,000 years of skiing history, Norwegian polar exploration artefacts and an exhibition on snowboarding and modern skiing.

7.30 P.M.
SEE YOU AT THE OPERA
On your last evening out in Oslo, why not make it one to remember by booking tickets for a performance at the stunning, harbourside Opera House? Here, you can find regular performances and concerts by both, local Norwegian and international artists alike. But for those who can’t see themselves attending a whole performance, why not climb the roof? Yes, the Oslo Opera House is much more than just a stuffy performance venue. Its gently sloping roof design attracts many leisure climbers and having a free (and perfectly legal) walk around the roof is a wonderful way to take in the great vista of the Oslo city line.

(An edited version of this article first appeared in the June 2018 issue of Jetwings Domestic in-flight magazine of Jet Airways http://www.jetairways.com/EN/IN/jetexperience/magazines.aspx)

Oman on a platter!

A delicious confluence of cuisines—thanks to its British, Portuguese, African and yes, Indian influences—the food of Oman is one that is richly layered and nuanced with flavours and textures that are both exotic and comfortingly similar at the same time.

 

By Raul Dias

If the legendary Arab hospitality is at the very heart of Omani life, then the cuisine of this most eastern of all middle eastern countries is undoubtedly its soul. Richly nourished by multifarious influences, its food is flavoured with a pinch of culture and a dash of history. This ranges from the colonial grip exerted by Portugal and Britain in the 15th and the late 18th century respectively, to its very own colonisation of the East African island of Zanzibar (which was regarded as the second capital of Oman after Muscat!) in 1698 and finally to its centuries of trade and commerce with India.
The sultanate’s 2,000-mile-long coastline, that stretches from the Musandam Peninsula up north in the Strait of Hormuz, right down to the tropical city of Salalah along the Arabian Sea coast, has bestowed upon its cuisine a bounty of seafood that takes prime position at most meals. Thus, all this, setting the stage for a table that runneth over with an edible pastiche of dishes and delicacies that are as much exotically Omani as they are comfortingly similar.

Exotic Flavours Aplenty
There’s no denying the fact that bread is the most important part of any middle eastern table. And Oman is no exception. Chief among these is the crepe-like, paper-thin flatbread called khubz rakhal that is the de facto anytime snack when loaded up with everything from a thick layer of salty feta cheese to honey and beaten eggs.
Other popular breads like the khubz al simsim and the khubz al takhien are used to scoop up lightly spiced gravies like the prawn and tomato marak shibass or to enrobe morsels of roasted lamb leg and Oman’s rather tangy and spicy version of kebabs called mishkak inspired by the Portuguese roast dish of asado.
Interestingly, two very popular vegetarian Omani dishes owe their genesis to Zanzibar. The first being the triangular spiced mashed potato-stuffed, deep-fried pastry called sambusac and the other being the decidedly East African coconut-creamed spinach that’s eaten with rice and fried fish.
If there is one local dish that should put Oman firmly on the world’s culinary map, then that would have to be its national dish of shuwa. An elaborate preparation that sees chunks of meat marinated in a spicy date paste and spit-roasted in a pit dug in the ground, shuwa is a communal activity undertaken by the entire village. The meat is marinated with a variety of spice rubs and then wrapped in banana leaves, which are in turn placed into the subterranean oven and left to slow cook for 24 hours.

The Indian Connection
Centuries of trade between India and Oman and the huge Indian diaspora—that is found in great numbers till today in Oman—has resulted in an interesting and unique blend of the two cuisines. Though much milder than a robust Indian-style biryani and more on the lines of a Kashmiri yakhni pulao, the local Omani iteration of machboos is a yummy one.  Basically, a rice dish, machboos is flavoured with saffron and cooked in the same stock that the chicken or meat was cooked in. For the vegetarian, the kabuli pulao steps in and tastes almost like its desi counterpart back home in India.
A doppelganger of the pounded wheat and meat Hyderabadi dish of haleem, Omanis call their version harees. Here too, wheat is mixed with meat or chicken and cooked until it forms a thick paste that’s served with ghee. Only the unexpected drizzle of date molasses sets the harees a wee bit apart and makes it a rather acquired taste.
Coated in a luscious, silken coconut milk sauce and simply called white tuna curry, this one is a dead ringer for the meen moilee of Kerala. It was introduced to the Omani palate by migrant workers from the southern state of India that has an equally impressive, long coastline.

Sea and Tell!
Speaking of seafood, one of the greatest places to acquaint oneself with this Omani staple is at the Muttrah Fish Market in the old quarter of Muscat. A stone’s throw away from the stunning corniche waterfront, tucked away at its end, this is the place to get a sense and feel of the hustle and bustle of an Arabic market. From 6.30 in the morning, fishermen drag their dhows up to the beach next to the market to unload everything from king fish to the typically Arab hammour fish and Sultan Ibrahim (threadfin bream) to octopus that are sold off within minutes.
If there is one fish dish that you must try when in Oman then that would have to me mashuai. Consisting of a whole spit-roasted kingfish, served with a side of lemon rice and garnished with half cut lemons, this preparation truly lets the fish’s sweet flavour come though, sans any spicy overkill. Another dish not to be missed is the tangy, citrusy seafood paplou soup. This soup that is made by the Lawati Omanis, whose ancestors trace their roots to traders from the Old Muttrah neighbourhood and South Asia is a delicious blend of tuna and tuna roe, all jazzed up with a dried lime and a spritz of fresh lime juice. 

Sweeter Side of Things
No visit to a local Omani home or business place is ever complete without a cup or two of kahwa. Not to be confused with the spiced kehwa Kashmiri tea, the Omani kahwa is a shot of strong, black coffee mixed with cardamom powder, poured into tiny porcelain cups out of a traditional brass coffee pot called a dallah. Its accompaniments are always the same: dates and Omani halwa (see box). The former is particularly important, as Oman has over 250 indigenous varieties, with the reddish-brown khalas dates kind being the most preferred.
Thanks to the British, tea is also a very popular beverage in Oman. Similar to masala chai, chai karak in Oman is made with condensed milk, cardamom, saffron and dried thyme leaves called za’atar. One of the best ways to enjoy tea time in Oman is by munching on a plate of the deep fired doughnut-like balls called luqaimat—very similar to the East Indian community’s sweet-savoury foogias. Only here, the luqaimat are doused in the local Omani honey from Sohar, that has a distinct flavour thanks to the samr, sidr and ghaaf trees that bees pollinate.
   

The Omani Halwa Influence
In a very interesting twist of circumstances, there is empirical evidence that shows Omani halwa as the progenitor of the very popular Bombay halwa. All this, thanks to the centuries of trade between the two coastal cities of Muscat and Mumbai, each on either side of the Arabian Sea.
Here are a few similarities:
• Both are sticky, gelatinous sweets with a translucency about them.
• Both are made with a tapioca starch-wheat flour mixture, sugar, ghee and rose water to which cardamom powder, nutmeg and saffron are added and then the mixture stirred manually for hours.
• While Omani halwa is naturally brownish-reddish in colour, Bombay halwa is artificially coloured green, perhaps to mimic the oodles of chopped pistachios that go into garnishing the former.

(An edited version of this article first appeared in the June 2018 issue of Jetwings Domestic in-flight magazine of Jet Airways http://www.jetairways.com/EN/IN/jetexperience/magazines.aspx)