Hail, Holy Helsinki!

From grand cathedrals to ‘alien’ chapels and churches hewn from rocks, Helsinki has an interesting selection of unique places of worship. Raul Dias recently discovered this facet on a short layover in the capital of Finland.  

By Raul Dias


Do pardon the triple ‘H’ alliteration in the header of this travel piece. It’s not just that I have a great affection for that particular figure of speech. But in this case, it is very much deserved and thus, warranted. “Hail, Holy Helsinki!” was also the exact same phrase that I uttered when I got back to my cruise ship cabin after spending precisely eight hours in Helsinki, when the ship docked at the Finnish capital’s port for a day, halfway through its nine-day Baltic Sea itinerary.
Now, for a city of modest proportions such as Helsinki, that one can easily cover on foot in less than two hours, it sure has an interesting cache of—here goes another alliteration—churches, chapels and cathedrals.
Here are four of the most unique and awe-inspiring ones:

The Helsinki Cathedral
This neoclassical Lutheran cathedral is one of the most iconic buildings of Helsinki and cannot be missed as it occupies prime position in the center of town. In fact, it was the first thing I saw of Helsinki from my ship cabin’s balcony as we docked. The imposing building dominates the city’s main Senate Square with its grand pillars, blue domes dotted with golden stars and statues of the twelve apostles along the roof that seem to lay guard over the city. Interestingly, the interiors of the cathedral are rather spartan and plain when compared to the elegant exterior. However, the cathedral does hold an atmospheric crypt with a small chapel which is worth exploring if you have the time. A city landmark of sorts, the flight of stairs leading to the cathedral is where locals set up meeting spots. But the stairs is also a great place to sit down and marvel at the other neoclassical buildings encircling the square, all of which were designed by Carl Ludvig Engel.

Uspenski Cathedral 
A spectacular red-brick building, the Uspenski Cathedral can be seen from a distance and forms a stunning part of Helsinki’s skyline. Set on top of a hill on Katajanokka island, you also get panoramic views of the city from outside the cathedral. As the largest Orthodox Church in Western Europe, the Uspenski Cathedral shows Russia’s influence on Finland as the country was part of the former USSR. Built in the Russian-Byzatine style, the green and gold onion-shaped domes resemble many of those found on churches in Moscow and St. Petersburg. The Orthodox style continues on the inside with an array of impressive chandeliers. The cathedral is also home to a number of religious icons that shine in all their gilded splendour.

Kamppi Chapel
Slap bang in the middle of Helsinki’s rather quiet downtown area, it’s very hard to miss the sight of the intriguing Kamppi Chapel. Also known as the ‘Chapel of Silence’, it has been described as resembling everything from a bow of a wooden ship to an alien egg, if you please! Whatever it reminds you of, it cannot be argued that it is brilliantly designed. In classic Finnish style, it is an ultra-modern and innovative design whilst also being simple and stylish. As the newest of the lot, it was dreamt up by the architects at KS2 and opened in 2012. It is also very different from the rest featured in this article, in that, no religious events, such as baptisms or weddings, take place here. Rather, it is used as a quiet haven and escape for people to retreat from the noise of the city, for a moment of peace and calm.

Temppeliaukio Rock Church
I’ve truly saved my favourite of the four for the last. The final iconic church on my list is the Temppeliaukio Church or the Church of the Rock, or just Rock Church, which is also the most exotic of the quartet. Located in the heart of the city, it is carved entirely out of solid granite rock and is a beautiful sight to behold. Exuding a definite pre-historic, Flintstones-eque vibe, the church was planned by two Finnish architect brothers Timo and Tuomo Suomalainen and opened in 1969. Natural light streams into the church through the skylight that surrounds the 22-diameter copper dome roof. The raw rock walls create excellent acoustics and the church is regularly used for concerts.

(An edited version of this column first appeared in the 26th May 2019 issue of The Free Press Journal newspaper's Weekend section on page 3 https://www.freepressjournal.in/travel/hail-holy-helsinki/1533719)

Notes from the World’s Oldest Vegetarian Restaurant

By Raul Dias

Ever the sceptic when it comes to anything remotely “record-worthy” within the realm of one of my life’s greatest passions i.e. food (coupled with my callously carnivorous proclivity!), I really wasn’t looking forward to my very first meal in Zurich, Switzerland. My friend and local Indian culinary guru, Ity Tiwari had all but dragooned me into a pure vegetarian lunch at Haus Hiltl.
A veritable Zurich institution, Hiltl, as it is more commonly known as today, is believed to be the world’s oldest vegetarian restaurant, having been founded in 1898. The stately-looking restaurant, perched on the city’s crowded Sihlstrasse street, even has a shiny plaque from the people at the Guinness World Records to corroborate this claim.
Coming from a country like India, it seemed rather strange for me to see such a title bestowed on a restaurant in Switzerland of all places. For here, no meal in general is complete without a serving of a hunk of meat with some potatoes and the ubiquitous cheese on the side. But some quick, on-the-spot research confirmed this as being very much the case. And so, I soldiered on, tucking into my yummy cumin-dusted roasted cauliflower soup and saffron gnocchi, while a few interesting morsels of Hiltl trivia served as accompaniments!

Born of Necessity
Founded by a family of German immigrants in 1898, and originally called Vegetaria, the restaurant was a boarding house for vegetarians with a small attached café. But thanks to the concept of vegetarianism being virtually non-existent in Switzerland at that time, with vegetarians even mocked as ‘grazers’, the erstwhile establishment didn’t have much success.
It was only a few years later in 1904 when a Bavarian tailor named Ambrosius Hiltl was rendered jobless due to rheumatoid arthritis, did he take over the restaurant and rename it Haus Hiltl, after he was prescribed an all-vegetarian diet by his doctor. Not only was Ambrosius cured of his affliction, but his restaurant was looked upon as a novelty to which scores of locals flocked, making it an overnight success. Something that it enjoys to this very day thanks to its famous pay-by-weight vegetarian buffet that’s a rage with Zurich’s hipster brigade.
And today, as an annexe, it even has the world’s first “vegi butcher” called the Hiltl Shop on the adjacent St. Annagasse street. Here is where one can stock up on everything from all-vegan mock meats like seitan and tempeh—where the former is made from wheat gluten, while the latter from fermented soybeans—to the wacky ‘noix gras’ hazelnut stand in for the controversial goose liver foie gras.

The Indian Connection
But talk of India and its rich vegetarian influence on Hiltl seemed inevitable as I was taken on a short, post-prandial tour of the gargantuan, three-levelled restaurant and shown the photograph of India’s late former prime minister Morarji Desai relishing a plate of pakoras at the restaurant. It was Ambrosius’s daughter-in-law Margrith, who, in the 1950s, introduced recipes and elements from Indian cuisine into Hiltl’s repertoire.
Understandably, at first it was mainly the Indian guests who responded with enthusiasm, but over time they were joined by more and more locals. The art of Indian cooking remains a major element of Hiltl with their channa masala being the top seller and a personal favourite of Rolf Hiltl, the fourth generation Hiltl who runs the restaurant today. “I have an affinity to Indian cuisine, due to our family and company history, and because of its wide variety of spices,” says the Hiltl great-grandson who caused quite a stir in 1993 when he introduced alcoholic beverages to the menu for the first time. But the Hiltl’s adherence to vegetarianism is non-negotiable and so strong that it is rumoured that they are even known to deny entry to those wearing fur. ‘nuff said!       
The Mumbai-based writer and restaurant reviewer is passionate about food, travel and luxury, not necessarily in that order.

(This article first appeared in the 19th May 2019 issue of The Hindu newspaper's Sunday Magazine section on page 27 https://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/travel/notes-from-haus-hiltl/article27160593.ece)

Ruling the Roost!

As the world’s largest raw material supplier of East Asia’s prized bird nests soup, Bokpyin in southern Myanmar knows how to pamper the nest-producing swiftlets with everything from purpose-built apartments to daily, evening acoustic entertainment.    

By Raul Dias

Though he says he’s just turned 43, Htway Cho’s full head of snow white hair and weather-beaten, wrinkly face easily add on a couple of extra decades to his countenance. He’s not surprised when I tell him that. “This is what 20 years of climbing cliffs will do to you!” Cho smiles, revealing a set of orange, betel nut-stained teeth.
My guide Cho, like hundreds of other men—and even a few women, he tells me—of the sleepy, seaside town of Bokpyin in Myanmar’s southern peninsular Tanintharyi region is a bird nest harvester. A hunter-gatherer, who, until nine years ago would risk life and limb scaling the treacherous cliffs of islands like Kuant Ngar and Yay Aye that are part of the region’s Myeik archipelago. All this in pursuit of one of the most elusive, and thus expensive, animal products consumed by humans—a prized cache of pearly white bird nests made from the dried-up saliva produced by the male white-nest swiftlet (Aerodramus fuciphagus). A product that is said to have tremendous health and beauty benefits when consumed regularly as a soup.
These days however, the scene couldn’t be more different for Cho and his posse. Ever since the former military junta-owned Union of Myanmar Economic Holdings Limited or UMEHL that the harvesters worked for, gave up its monopoly over the harvest of the nests in 2011, exports surged. And to keep up with the demand for the dried nests—a kilogram of which can sell for as much as US $1,300 in the Chinese market—the canny residents of Bokpyin came up with an ingenious idea. 

Back ‘Stories’
“We realised that we didn’t need to go out to the swiftlets. Rather, let them come to us,” says Cho. This “eureka” moment came to the townsfolk, when, a few years ago, they noticed a flock of swiftlets had taken over an old, abandoned house where hundreds of nests were found. Soon, there were dozens of such buildings—some even purpose built and multi-storied—that were ‘let out’ to the swiftlets. “And so, we started adding floors to our existing buildings to accommodate the birds who come to roost at dusk daily. We collect the nests three to four times a year. But only after the hatchlings have matured and flown away,” Cho is quick to add.
Today, there are at least a 150 such grey, concrete swiftlets tenements scattered across the town. Interestingly, land prices in Bokpyin have sky-rocketed to unprecedented highs due to this phenomenon. A plot in downtown Bokpyin, for instance, can sell for as high as US $77,000, which is as much one would expect to pay in some parts of the country’s commercial capital of Yangon!
So successful has been this ‘swiftlet in situ’ model that it is not only being replicated by other towns in Myanmar like Kawthaung, but also in neighbouring southern Thailand where the Pak Phanang District of the Nakhon Si Thammarat province is fast becoming another hub for such nesting houses. 

Of Static Birdsong and More…
Walking through the non-descript town that was once Myanmar’s leading producer of betel nut, rubber and palm oil one late afternoon, all my senses were at once made aware of the town’s newest residents. It was not just the overwhelming avian odour that hit my nostrils, but the sight of thousands of birds circling overhead was enough to make me feel like I was in Myanmar’s remake of Alfred Hitchcock’s 1963 classic The Birds.
But it was another one of my senses that was most affected. Suddenly Bokpyin’s traffic din was all but silenced with a unique mixture of assorted bird sounds—from twittering to chirping to even the occasional cawing. It turned out to be emanating from the various speakers and boom boxes installed in the nesting homes in a bid to attract more winged tenants. A brilliant move.
“What about the bird droppings, doesn’t that cause nuisance?” I question Cho in all my urban insouciance. “Simple. Once a week we collect all of it to sell off as manure,” is his matter-of-fact rebuttal.
Once again, Bokpyin’s ingenuity comes to the fore!


TRAVEL LOG

Getting There 
One can get into Bokpyin either by a two-hour flight or by an overnight bus journey from Yangon. There are also weekly flights from Bangkok to Bokpyin. There are daily flights that link both Yangon and Bangkok to several Indian cities. To travel within Bokpyin one can either hire a scooter or a car with a driver or simply walk, given its compact size. Myanmar now offers a visa on arrival for Indians that’s available at most major international airports in the country for a fee of $50.

Stay
With more accommodation options on offer for the prized swiftlets, the only, single guesthouse in Bokpyin to offer a good night’s rest to the town’s human visitors is the very basic and internet-bereft U Marle Guesthouse next to the bus station. Here, one can expect to pay 20,000 kyat (Rs 915 approx.) for a double room or 11,000 kyat (Rs 503 approx.) for a single room with a shared bathroom and without breakfast.

Tip
* Due to the nutri-collagen present in the swiftlets’ saliva, drinking a bowl of bird nest soup is believed to be great for the complexion and also to maintain youth, though there is no scientific data available to prove this claim.
* From Bokpyin, take a day trip to the nearby town of Kawthaung to see the beautiful steeple-like golden chedi of the famous Pyi Daw Aye Pagoda in downtown. Or perhaps travel a little bit north of Kawthaung to visit the Maliwan Waterfall, just off the main highway.



(An edited version of this article first appeared in the 18th May 2019 issue of The Hindu Business Line newspaper's BLink section on page 21 https://www.thehindubusinessline.com/blink/takeaway/a-myanmar-town-rakes-in-millions-by-letting-out-buildings-to-swiftlets/article27158829.ece)

Re(past) Perfect!

With a tasteful mix of modern European fare and a few Goan dishes thrown in, the menu at this all-new Andheri restaurant is as eclectic as its stylish setting is, making it the perfect spot for an early dinner.

By Raul Dias

Over the years, we’ve learnt something the hard way. And that is, that an early dinner is the best solution to most of the lifestyle-related issues brought on by the ‘conspicuous consumption’ of copious amounts of food that we’ve been eating as part of the job. Sadly, not many Mumbai restaurants have cottoned onto the early dinner concept, with merely a handful of kitchens firing off before 7.30 pm.
Thankfully, the brand-new, dinner-only Um Doiss Tres—the name of which is the Portuguese equivalent of “one, two, three”—gets the drift and is happy to serve you dinner as early as 5pm, if you so wish. However, for our weekday dinner, we chose a more reasonable 7pm to check out what this 90-cover restaurant had to offer us.
Housed in the same Lokhandwala, Andheri location where the erstwhile Italian eatery Su Casa once stood, the dining space is one of refined elegance, with modern décor and a soothing colour scheme. We were particularly charmed by the Spanish hacienda-style arches that separate the various sections of the restaurant and the blue and white Portuguese-Goan azulejo tiles that line its walls.
And this Latino-meets-Portuguese-meets-Goan leitmotif is carried forward to the food menu that is peppered with plenty of eclectic small plates. Designed by Chef Xavier Fernandes, the menu features dishes that exhibit a distinct flavour and texture. Like the refreshingly tasty sumac tossed fried chickpeas (Rs 185), where crispy-yet-soft centred chickpeas and cubed potatoes were all jazzed up with the tart, almost lemon-like Middle Eastern sumac berry powder. Our order of the Spanish classic bravas potatoes (Rs 250) proved to be another winner with a platter of a dozen, tiny potato cups piped with alternating layers of garlic aioli and romesco sauce wowing us silent.
Not too impressed with the rather pedestrian and innovation-lacking cocktail menu (boring-sounding mojitos, sangrias, margaritas and their ilk!) we stuck to good old aqua, that would prove to be the perfect foil to the next dish we called for. Bringing in some Goan flavour to the table, the simple, yet robustly spiced pork chorizo and string bean stew (Rs 325) was something we happily mopped up with a selection of breads from the complimentary bread basket that our very attentive server insisted on replenishing.
Perfectly crumb coated, the quintet of fried brie cheese (Rs 410) wedges anointed with a very interesting guava gastrique and served atop a bed of green apple slaw struck culinary gold. Equally impressive was the pulled duck pizza (Rs 510), served on a thin crust base along with fried kale chips and water chestnuts providing more crisp and crunch to the pie. Taking us back to those susegaad post-dinner evenings spent lounging on our Goa house’s balcao was the very authentically turned out serra dura (Rs 250). Meaning “saw dust”, this Portuguese-Goan dessert was all the good things a grand finale should be—memorable and more-ish. With the cooling, orange-scented milk custard melding with the fine biscuit dust and the assertive punch of the dark chocolate swirls rounding it all off deliciously. 

AT: Um Doiss Tres, 101 Samartha Aishwarya, Above Nature’s Basket, Andheri Lokhandwala Road, Andheri West.
TIME: 5 pm to 1.30 am
CALL: 8452833040

(An edited version of this review appeared in the 15th May 2019 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India on page 20 https://m.mid-day.com/articles/early-dining-in-lokhandwala/20942165)

Summer Travel—Your Way!

Summer travel is all about making the most of that much-needed vacation time. And so, we’ve put together a list of exciting getaways around the world for all sorts of travellers—be they couples on a romantic break or the solo adventurer on their own wanderlust-driven path.

By Raul Dias 

For Full Family Fun
Toronto in Canada
Almost every year, this vibrant Canadian city makes it to the top of the list of the world’s most family-friendly destinations. And rightly so! Come summer and this usually frigid city blossoms into a family fun paradise with scores of attractions that have something for every member. The well-maintained Toronto Zoo is a paradise for animal lovers with everything from Canada’s native polar bears to baby rhinos and hundreds of other creatures there to see. Prefer the more aquatic kind of adventures? Then a deep-sea adventure awaits at Ripley’s Aquarium. The Bat Cave at the Royal Ontario Museum is a fun way for kids to discover the real stories behind these mysterious creatures. And for the sportier families, scale to the top of the CNN Tower and earn yourself a panoramic view of the city. But for a truly memorable vacation, head down to the Canadian side of the mighty Niagara Falls just over an hour by road from Toronto. Once there, take a ride aboard the Hornblower Niagara Cruise in the morning and head off on an aerial tour of the falls with National Helicopters in the afternoon.

Getting There: There are daily direct and connecting flights from both Mumbai and New Delhi and other Indian cities to Toronto on airlines like Air India, Jet Airways, Air Canada and Emirates.


For the Romantic Couple
Turtle Island in Fiji
Picture this. The two of you on a private beach somewhere in the South Pacific with the soft white sand squeaking under your feet, a calm breeze lulling you into sweet submission, while the azure waters provide the ambient soundtrack with their gentle lapping… Bliss, right? But what’s even better about this montage is that it can be your very own reality at the super-exclusive Turtle Island in Fiji’s Yasawa chain. As part of this all-inclusive island resort—that is home to only 14 couples at a time—you even get access to your very own private beach that is only one of the 14 others that the resort is famous for. From there, your eyes are met with stunning vistas of the renowned Blue Lagoon which is an icon of Fiji, having featured in the 1980’s movie of the same name. Besides a romantic private dinner and couples’ massages, the resort even tailor-makes all your aquatic adventure requirements, be it snorkelling or swimming with the dolphins. Ah, bliss!

Getting There: Connect from most cities in India to Nadi, Fiji via Hong Kong on Cathay Pacific in association with partner airline Fiji Airways. From Nadi, one can reach Turtle Island by taking a 30-minute seaplane flight.


For the Solo Traveller
Safaris and More in South Africa
There is very little doubt that for most travellers, the words ‘South Africa’ and ‘Safaris’ go hand-in-hand. Home to a wondrous selection of wildlife, including the coveted Big 5, the iconic national parks like Limpopo’s Kruger and Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park in Upington are the best places to get your fill. And better still if you’re a solo traveller. Most safari resorts like the Hamiltons Tented Camp in Kurger offer up a variety of activities from daily group safari drives to nightly bonfire BBQs where you can meet and swap stories with fellow solo guests. And once you’ve got your fill of the country’s number one calling card, head down to the Garden Route in South Africa’s Western Cape region which is just the place to indulge your every adrenaline-laced fantasy. With everything from cave exploring at the magnificent Cango Caves in the Klein Karoo area to bungy jumping at the world’s highest bungy off the Bloukrans Bridge (that fords over the Bloukrans River valley at a height of 216 meters!), the Garden Route has it all and then some more for the solo adventure seeker.

Getting There: The best way to get to South Africa from India is via Dubai on Emirates that has daily flights to and from Cape Town, Durban and Johannesburg. Once in South Africa, you can hire a car and drive to most national parks and down to the Garden Route as well.


For a Memorable ‘Pet-a-cation’
New York in the USA
For most of us with pets, the idea of leaving them alone while we waltz off on a vacation is pretty traumatic. No longer. As one of the world’s greatest pet-friendly cities, New York has a plethora of hotels—from the iconic The Peninsula near Central Park to the Hilton Times Square—that are more than happy to welcome you and your pet. Among one of the best hotels in the city, The Conrad in fashionable Lower Manhattan is so pet-friendly that guests travelling with their pets also have access to dog beds, bandanas, food bowls and additional amenities through the hotel’s pet program. It even provides you with private GPS-tracked dog walking services, which include a map of the route travelled, arrival and departure times, and a recap and photos of your pooch’s adventure. And for those travelling sans pet, but craving some non-human company, the Roxy Hotel Tribeca, one of Manhattan’s most stylish boutique hotels will even offer its in-house posse of goldfish to guests—free of charge—for the duration of their stay! 

Getting There: There are daily direct flights from both Mumbai and New Delhi to New York on airlines like Air India, Jet Airways, Delta and United Airlines.

(An edited version of this article first appeared in the April-May-June 2019 issue of HDFC Imperia magazine)

The Learning Vacation

Travel these days is much more than simply ticking off those all-important boxes of must-visit sites and must-do activities. Enter the learning vacation where picking up a new skill or craft while immersing yourself in the local culture of the place you visit is the latest buzz word in travel. Raul Dias shows you just how to go about that!

By Raul Dias

Not content with merely sitting around sipping fruity cocktails by the beach on your next summer holiday? We hear you. For most of us these days, the idea of the vacation has evolved from the one of the past where sight-seeing and picking up souvenirs was all we ever wanted out of it. And one the greatest agents of this evolution is the learning vacation. A popular trend in the west, the learning vacation is now one of the top ways we Indians travel. More and more of us are choosing this style of seeing the world, while taking back something less material and more life enriching.   
Today’s holiday is all about getting more bang for one’s buck by partaking in more immersive (and dare-we-say, ‘Insta-friendly’) experiences while we pick up skills and hobbies that will not just be with us forever, but skills that may come in handy later. The learning vacation seeks to be the conduit to all this and much, much more.
Imagine picking up a skill like pottery while embracing Mother Nature in all her glory! You can very much do that. Regarded as India’s pottery capital, the bucolic village of Andretta set against the mighty Himalayas in Himachal Pradesh is where all you pottery enthusiasts should head to. Here, the Andretta Pottery and Craft Society in Kangra is THE place to get an immersive experience by staying at a potter’s collective where you will participate in daily hands-on classes to make your own bowls, jugs and other earthenware under the guidance of an expert (andrettapottery.com).
For those with a sportier inclination why not learn to surf in some of India’s best beaches? Located 10km north of the union territory of Puducherry, near the village of Tandryankupam, Serenity Beach is home to the Kallialay Surf School run by two expat Spanish brothers. Here you can channel your inner (hidden!?) surfer as you learn the watersport’s finer nuances by signing up for their five-day surfing course that teaches you all you need to know about cruising the waves (surfschoolindia.com).
The learning vacation shouldn’t be just limited to your domestic travel. Expand your horizons and do things you’ve never done before. For example, the Northern Thailand region of Lanna is well-known as a place, not just for learning and its amazing culture, but also as a bastion of exquisite food. So, on your next Thailand vacation take some time and head up country to the arts capital of Chiang Mai to include some skill-gathering? Sign up for a four-hours long, hands-on cookery class with Chef Chanrat Karatna who will teach you to whip up from scratch local dishes like the Northern Thailand version of the ubiquitous somtamthai papaya and prawn salad and more, all served with sticky black rice that is a specialty of the Lanna region (airthaikitchen.com).
Fancy something a bit fancier? Simple. Learn all there is to truffle hunting when in Italy! A mere 15 minutes outside the Renaissance-rich city of Florence, the forested hills of Bagno a Ripoli are said to be rich with that magical, perfumed haute cuisine ingredient called black truffles. Sign up for a day foraging for and learning about all there is to know about the delicious fungus with truffle hunting expert Giulio Benuzzi and his specially trained sniffer dog named Eda. You will explore the forest near their home and follow Eda’s keen sense of smell and instincts on the track to truffles. And that’s not all. Once you unearth a few delicious truffles, you will be treated to a lunch made from them (giuliothetrufflehunter.com).
While we’ve kept this list to a minimum in adherence to brevity, the possibilities for a learning vacation are excitingly limitless. Learn a new language or hone those salsa dancing skills. Remember that the world is your oyster and it’s never too late to add value to your next vacation.    

Tips To Keep In Mind
1. Choose an activity that really interests you and don’t just do it because the rest of your family or travel group is enthused by it. Let’s be honest; kite-boarding isn’t for everyone!
2. Don’t feel the pressure to pack in too many learning activities into your vacation. Remember it is a holiday after all, not an offsite skills course.
3. Do ample research before signing up and make sure that the place or the person from whom you are learning from has the right credentials and is truly an expert in their field.
4. Don’t be too hard on yourself if you don’t seem very good at that particular skill or craft. Give yourself some time and practice. It’s worth remembering that clichéd phrase: “Rome wasn’t built in a day!”   

(An edited version of this article first appeared in the April 2019 issue of  Purple Hues magazine of Sterling Holidays https://www.sterlingholidays.com/content/dam/sterlingholidays/footer/files/sterlingworld/purple-hues-magazine-apr-2019.pdf)

The Louisville Layover

As the crown jewel of the American South, Louisville is not just the state of Kentucky’s largest city, but one that is a treasure trove of historical and culturally significant landmarks and attractions, perfect for a weekend jaunt, discovers Raul Dias

By Raul Dias

There’s just something about the city of Louisville that gives it a very regal cachet. And I’m not just alluding to the fact that it was named in honour of Louis XVI the last King of France. Sitting pretty on the banks of the Ohio River along Kentucky’s border with the neighbouring state of Indiana, Louisville seems stuck in a time warp with its colonial red brick buildings and wide tree-lined boulevards that once saw horse-drawn carriages traipse up and down.
But that’s not to say that the city doesn’t have a side that’s refreshingly modern and avant-garde, ably referenced by the tall glass and steel buildings that can be found downtown. From a dynamic food and live music scene to some of the best museums in the USA dedicated to culture and sport, a short layover in Louisville is enough to get a pulse of the city and to enjoy all it has to offer…and then some more!

Home of the Champ
Paying rich homage to the legendary Muhammad Ali one of the city’s favourite sons, is the Muhammad Ali Center located in Louisville’s West Main District. Opened in 2005, this multi-level cultural centre-cum-museum features exhibitions in consonance with the Champ’s six core principles of confidence, conviction, dedication, giving, respect, and spirituality. For lovers of art, trek up to the third level that houses two art galleries, the LeRoy Neiman Gallery and the Howard L. Bingham Gallery, each featuring temporary exhibits. And once you’re done knowing all there is to know about the amazing life and career of the late pugilist, take the 170-foot-long pedestrian walkway that connects the Center’s plaza to the Belvedere, the Waterfront, and other downtown attractions.

Enter the Palace
“Enter and view with astonishment the magnificence that the hand of man has wrought. The more you look, the more you will see,” said the Courier Journal newspaper when The Louisville Palace first opened its baroque doors. This was exactly 90 years ago on the 1st of September 1928 when it debuted as a cinema hall. And we couldn’t agree more. Snugly wedged between Broadway and Chestnut Street on the east side of Fourth Street in Downtown Louisville’s theatre district, this all-important historical landmark today plays host to a varied bunch of gigs that range from Broadway attractions and international performing arts presentations to concerts by gospel, R&B and country artists. All this, in a beautifully ornate main concert hall with a capacity to seat 2,800 people.

Take a Bite of History
What the deep-dish pizza is to Chicago, the Hot Brown is to Louisville. Born out of sheer inventive genius—as most great things are—this open-face sandwich was created at West Broadway’s Brown Hotel (hence its name) by Chef Fred Schmidt in the 1920s as a late-night snack to soak up all that post bar hopping alcohol. Here, a single slice of bread is loaded up with sliced turkey and bacon and slathered with cheese sauce before being placed in an oven to crisp up. Though several versions of the sandwich are available all over Louisville, we would place all our money on this one at the Brown Hotel. Interestingly, it was at the Seelbach Hotel, a few blocks away where Al Capone would regularly meet with associates during the Prohibition era. And speaking of prohibition, another Louisville landmark, the Pendennis Club, is where the Old-Fashioned cocktail is believed to have been invented.

Belle of The Ball!
Of great significance to the city of Louisville from the time of the indigenous Shawnee people and the early European settlers to this very day, the arterial Ohio River is the city’s most beloved icons. And occupying prime position sailing along its gentle waters is another icon. Decked up to the nines like a true-blue ‘Southern Belle’, the Belle of Louisville is a steamboat that was built in 1914 by the James Rees & Sons Company in Pittsburgh up north when she was known as the Idlewild. Today, you can step into a piece of living American history by going for a two-hour dinner cruise aboard this beauty who meanders her way along the river showing you all of Louisville’s sights by night, before homing back in to her berth at the downtown wharf next to the well-appointed Riverfront Plaza.

(An edited version of this column first appeared in the 12th May 2019 issue of The Free Press Journal newspaper's Weekend section on page 3 https://www.freepressjournal.in/travel/louisville-a-treasure-trove-of-history-and-culture/1523697)

Soy Story!

The close-to-authentic flavours and generous portions of some very affordable Pan Asian food more than make up for the rather dull, uninspiring ambience at this brand new Bandra eatery.

By Raul Dias

Here’s a fair warning for those of us who suffer from even the mildest form of claustrophobia. Take a deep breath before you enter this hole-in-the-wall Pan Asian restaurant that sits tightly wedged between a hair salon and a patisserie on Bandra West’s bustling Pali Naka road. Ignore the four-table setup in the open-air courtyard and descend into its bowels to the tiny, basement level dining room where you will find yourself sitting almost elbow-to-elbow with other diners. And don’t forget to keep the conversation PG13. For at Soy Pan Asian Kitchen, everyone can hear every single stray word spoken…and even the odd one whispered! 
But for us, what spoke the loudest of all was the food on offer. Not once missing the acute lack of any decent liquid sustenance on the menu (barring the ubiquitous canned cola and ginger ale offerings) we dove straight into the savoury section. Cosily ensconced in a bamboo steamer basket, our six, hefty pork dumplings (Rs 290) were each a juicy burst of umami goodness with the perfect dough to filling ratio. The well-seasoned, panko-crusted Japanese fried chicken tori karake (Rs 250) remined us more of a chicken katsu than a karake which are usually bite sized nuggets as opposed to the sliced breast portion we found on our plate.  
Having just returned from the sweltering climes of Bangkok, we were taken straight back to its meandering sois with the very authentic and super reasonably priced som tum papaya salad (Rs190). Tart, sweet and salty—this iteration was packed with all the good things a refreshing Thai papaya salad should have. Falling off-the-bone tender and smothered in a star anise-redolent sauce, the BBQ pork ribs (Rs 390) had just the right amount of smoky flavour, ending with a slight hint of piquant bird eye chili.  
Ten (yes, we counted!) plump prawns swimming in a thick Thai red curry (Rs 450) accompanied by the slightly astringent tasting pea aubergines was almost sublime when paired with jasmine rice (Rs 180), making for a memorable main. Though we wish we could have said the same for the cloyingly sweet chicken pad Thai (Rs 260), which although was enough to feed four, was left relatively intact by the end of our meal.
It would perhaps have done the chefs at Soy Pan Asian Kitchen a whole lot of good to use the surplus sugar of the pad Thai in the bland and watery tob tin crop (Rs 150) water chestnuts in coconut milk that seemed like the more reasonable dessert to call for, when compared to the only other one on the menu. We’re talking about the ridiculous priced mango cheese cake slice (Rs 450) that we’d probably order on a day when we’re feeling particularly self-indulgent!   

TIME: 12pm to 12am
AT: Gasper Enclave CHS, Shop no 3, St. John’s Road, Pali Naka, Bandra West.
CALL: 9619616398

(An edited version of this review appeared in the 7th May 2019 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India on page 22 https://www.mid-day.com/articles/soy-story/20890171)